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The 


Geographical Journal. 


THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 
Dr. SVEN HEDIN. 


was June 24, that left Stockholm for the fourth time 
quest new experiences and new adventures the heart Central 
Asia. That journey, which occupied period three years and three 
days, now happily concluded. And to-night have the pleasure and 
privilege laying before you account various journeyings 
the centre the great continent which have just mentioned. 

preparations for this last journey resulted rather pon- 
derous, but certainly more complete, outfit than had carried with 
any previous expeditions.t Still had reason complain 
this score, since, through the courtesy his Imperial Majesty the 
Czar Russia, was granted full exemption from customs duties, 
well free travelling and free transport through the length and 
breadth his empire. same monarch also gave escort 
four Cossacks, fine, honest fellows, who, for their loyalty and courage, 
were, the close their term service, rewarded with gold medals 
both his Majesty the King Sweden and his Imperial Majesty 
the Czar. 

For the journey through the Trans-Caspian region had the honour 
railway carriage all myself, the last the train, that, from 
the platform its rear, was able enjoy 


hoped that finished map Dr. will ready for 
publication before the end the year. 

The means for undertaking this journey were chiefly given H.M. the King 
Sweden and Norway and some Swedish among others Emanuel 


No. 1903.] 


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222 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 


view the country were travelling through. After that journeyed 
well-known route from Osh Kashgar. Kasbgar raised and 
equipped caravan fifteen camels and ten horses, and with them 
marched Lailik the Yarkand-daria. 

had already crossed Eastern almost every direction, 
and the river was the only route with which was not acquainted. 
Consequently, decided make its muddy waters carry down 
the region Lob-Nor. being the best suited for purpose, 
bought ordinary ferry-boat, one the kind which ordinarily 
employed for ferrying goods across the river those points where 
intersected the caravan routes, and fitted comfortable 
floating house, which became for many long months. 
This led regular workshop being established the middle the 
desert, carpenters and smiths being sent for from Yarkand make 
such alterations the craft were necessary. had deck fitted 
over the fore part, and upon that set tent. Its interior was 
fitted study, writing-table, made out couple boxes, 
being placed the entrance. From that vantage-ground commanded 
complete view the river during the whole journey over 
1300 miles. Not single bend, lagoon, sandhill, grove 
trees escaped all were successively plotted maps 
glided past them one after the other. Amidships had 
hut erected planks and black rugs, serve photographic dark- 
room. was provided with tables and benches, while barrel was 
placed the roof supply water the samovar, which washed 
photographic plates. baggage was stacked the stern the 
boat, and there also servants established their quarters. the 
same part the boat they built small fireplace bricks, which 
they cooked their food throughout the journey; while the cool 
autumn evenings they kept fire burning constantly. smaller ferry- 
boat was fitted our larder, store-room. kept our 
supplies flour and rice, grapes, melons and pears, vegetables, live 
sheep and fowls; and these last had very great deal cackling 
they got accustomed their floating home. When everything 
was finished, however, the boat was exceedingly comfortable, being, 
were, sort country house set afloat the bosom the great river. 
also had dogs board, and small English collapsible boat, 
which used for short reconnoitring trips and down the stream. 

The day before started invited the entire population the dis- 
trict big entertainment, which tea and hot rice-pudding were 
supplied lib. The very same musicians who celebrated departure 
disastrous desert journey 1895 came again, and twanged 
their strings the same melancholy manner. And while their doleful 
strains fretted the stillness the night, couple barefooted girls 
whirled round and round dizzy dance. But the latter, upon being 


THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 


photographed the next day under the piercing rays the sun, did not 
appear anything like the same advantage they did the light 

September 17, the caravan, led the two Cossacks Sirkin and 
Chernoff, started follow the land-route vid Aksu and Korla the 
rendezvous agreed upon the Lower Tarim. With the boat 
took former faithfal servant, Islam Bai, and five boatmen, whom 
stationed with long poles one each corner the boat, well one 
the provision boat, directing them keep the flotilla from sticking 
fast the bank should the current carry too violently against it. 

When all was ready gave the signal for the start. Our boats made 
their way up-stream, and the hospitable shores Lailik were speedily 
lost view behind the woods. Here began most 
was indeed pleasure live the river, and study its pulsating life, 
its ebb and its flow, its capricious windings, its ever-changing shores. 
me, who had been accustomed travel horseback, survey 
the country from the back swaying camel, there was incom- 
parable enjoyment feeling myself carried smoothly alorg the 
current peacefully flowing river; and sitting still all the time 
writing-table, while the landscape came, were, meet 
me, and unfolded itself before eyes like perpetually changing 
panorama, that all had was study and observe from 
the vantage-ground seat the stalls. And was, too, 
delightful feeling always home, and carry house about 
with me, snail does, through the interior Asia. When the 
weather was warm, had only throw off clothes and jump straight 
from writing-table. Then, later on, dinner would served 
amongst compasses, field-glasses, and levelling instruments. 
meteorological observatory was the roof the hut, and were 
barometer, which recorded daily how slowly but gradually 
descended, and thermometers, which gradually sank lower and 
lower the autumn advanced, 

had only gone very short distance when managed run 
aground. But the boatmen leapt into the water and pushed the boat 
After that sent the smaller provision boat front, 
act pilot, and warn the presence dangerous places. 

wonder how many scores times got stuck sandbanks 
during that journey? rule, camped among the woods 
shore, where there was plenty fuel. But while the crew slept 
land, slept board. Every evening after landed, measured 
the volume the river, with the help collapsible boat, velocity 
instrument, sounding-pole, and rope stretched across the stream. 
During the first few days the volume worked out the rate 3355 
cubic feet per second. 


Kotteklik descended certain rapids, which our craft shot 


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224 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL 1899-1902. 


splendid style, without the slightest trouble. But below the rapids the 


force the current was strong that were unable keep clear 


the writing-table was great danger going overboard. 

Further the river divided, and drifted amongst arms 
narrow that were only just able force the boat along 
other parts the stream was encumbered with driftwood and the trunks 
the poplar trees, which lay submerged the water’s edge, were not 
noticed until the boat swung right round upon them. one point, 
where large quantities water are drained off feed the irrigation 
canals Maral-bashi, the current dwindled 810 cubic feet the 
second, and were obliged requisition the natives help hauling 
our boats over the shallows. After that the country became un- 
inhabited; and the boats glided noiselessly through the dense forests, 
which were often thick that scarce ray sunlight pierced through 
the dark hiding-places and holes which the boars, tigers, and 


other beasts the jungle make their lairs. 


the beginning our journey the gnats were very troublesome, 
but the frosty weather soon put them flight. the same time the 
poplars put their robes cloth gold, preparing for autumn 
carnival. Tall and straight they stood, mirroring their heads 
the great river, the Alma-Mater, East Turkestan, though they 
were religiously paying their devotions her, just the Brahmins and 
grey-haired pilgrims who journey Benares die pay reverent homage 
the Ganges. 

this way glided day after day, week after week, down the 
dark waters the Tarim, through the enchanted forests, which shut 
in, were, along kini Venetian thoroughfare lined palaces 
magically changed into trees, and quays golden shimmering reeds. 
When the current flowed more slowly, the boatmen turns 
over their punting-poles. And when the wind blew through the forest, 
scattered shower golden leaves over the face the river, making 
golden waterway for all through the autumn, followed 
every curve and winding the stream. was though were 
threading enchanted sargasso seas 

rule, the Tarim very sinuous. For instance, one case, 
after making detour over three-quarters mile, found had 
only advanced 200 yards lineal direction, or, other words, had 
gone round eight-ninths circle order get over distance equal 
the remaining ninth. this way occasionally happened that 
came back the very same poplars which had left behind few 
hours previously. 

Upon reaching Masar-tagh stayed there two three days, and 
carried out several excursions boat and foot, with the view 
completing the maps made previous journey. The 
temperature sank for the first time below zero, that say, 


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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 225 


30° Fakr., the night October 12. the evening October 
were cheered the sight fire blazing amongst the trees the 
bank. was made shepherds, who were this way seeking 
scare away the tigers. soon they caught sight our boat, 
with its spectre-like tent and its coal-black hut, gliding noiselessly 
between the river-banks, they took incontinently their heels, and 
fled, leaving both sheep and fire their fate. Throughout the whole 
the journey had the greatest difficulty getting into communi- 
cation with the half-wild shepherds, who pasture their flocks the 
primeval forests the Tarim. matter how called them, 


they steadfastly refused come and talk with us; but, the sight 


our boat, they nearly always fled away like frightened antelopes, and 
was only the exercise little stratagems that were able secure 
them all, and detain them board until their local topographical 
knowledge came end. 

The first break interlude our monotonous journey occurred 
when approached the inhabited region Arvat. were met 
several begs, chiefs, and crowd horsemen, amongst whom were 
eight falconers, each carrying his bird his glove. These people 
accompanied along the banks, and never have the waters the 
Tarim witnessed more festive procession. 

the autumn advanced, saw, both day and night, huge flocks 
wild geese flying overhead, making for India way They 
kept regularly altitude 600 700 feet above our heads, and the 
air echoed again with their discordant quackings. 
find their way along their aerial highways—those wonderful feathered 
pilgrims, surely the rivulets from the melting glaciers find their 
way down Lob-nor. And truly majestic sight stand aud 
watch them streaming their serried phalanxes, like squadrons 
the sky charging and on, silent and untiring wings. 

length arrived the mouth the Ak-su-daria, and there our 
river met with very noteworthy augmentation its volume. The 
rate flow the current quickened nearly miles hour, aud 
our boat swung right round glided out into the swirl the 
confluence. But all went excellently well; the banks disappeared 
rapidly behind us, while every now and again the river was broken 
rapids. For two days travelled the rate miles hour, and 
consequently had keep sharp look-out raced past the woods 
and the kamish (reed) beds, the risk being submerged beneath 
the avalanche crumbling bank sand. the season grew older, 
began sensibly cold board. the night November 
both boats froze fast the ice, though, fortunately, was thin, and 
the end the month the temperature had sunk 29° below freezing- 
point (Fahr. one had quite dangerous adventure 
—our boat was carried close underneath high, steep bank, and 


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226 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 


little way ahead saw poplar tree leaning out low down over 
the current. The punting-poles failed touch the bottom, and 
tent and every other structure board would infallibly have gone 
over the side had not one men, the nick time, jumped into 
the ice-cold water and swum land with rope. 

And now began live daily expectation the river freezing, 
for sooner later the ice would raise insurmountable obstacle our 
further progress. Hence there began sort race between ourselves 
and it. Could manage get far our rendezvous before came 
and stopped us? For several days journeyed all day long, and often 
far into the night; and for period ten days towards the end 
November met with rare good fortune. Some years ago the river 
made for itself new bed through sea sand, which flung its 
dunes like pyramids either bank. This new channel gave short 
cut. But not vestige vegetation, not antelope, not human 
being, not even much raven vulture, gladdened our eyes 
these dream-like, desolate banks. Here again the speed the 
current was over miles hour, that sped breathless 
pace past the sandhills, which towered fully feet above the 
surface the stream. 

last froze hard night that had chop out our boats 
with axes every morning. white chain drift-ice was trailed down 
the river, and jangled like string bells against the sides our 
boats night. During the first days December the river grew full 
ice this description, and most fantastic were the shapes assumed 
those evenings when continued our journey far into the dark- 
ness. times our boats were preceded small native canoes, 
carrying flaring oil-lamps. These constantly moving ice-bound channels 
gave out unceasing succession groans and moans; and when 
became embedded them, and were carried along the same rate 
they moved, they appeared relatively stationary—that say, 
appeared stand still, though the slow movements the compass- 
needle revealed the windings the river, while the dim-lit banks 
glided past like wandering spectres. last, however, the ice won 
the upper hand. The strips ice along the banks fastened themselves 
the sides and began grow inwards towards each other, that the 
channel open water the middle the river became narrower and 
narrower. December the ice welded the two sides the river 
together. were frozen fast, and had into winter quarters. 
The place where this happened was called Yanghi-koll, and here, 
stroke good luck, fell that very same day with our caravan. 
Then arose, magic, small town the desolate banks the 
Tarim. Tents were pitched, kamish (reed) huts constructed, and stables 
built shelter the animals the caravan. the market-place 
kept burning night Chinese lantern swung pole, and this was 


SAND DUNES NEAR THE RIGHT BANK THE 
LOWER TARIM. 


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SAND DUNES THE RIGHT BANK THE TARIM, 


NEAR YANGI-KOLL. 


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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 227 


the only lamp-post the whole place. this time, also, kindled 
fire, which was not allowed out until the end May the 
following year. Traders came visit from Korla and from Kuchar, 
and desired barter their wares with us; this way lively market 
flourished the wilderness. 

After making excursion into the interior the sandy desert, 
and entertaining the famous French traveller Bonin, his way from 
Peking, open-air camp, set out December from Yanghi- 
koll with caravan seven camels, one horse, four men, and two 
dogs, cross the most appalling desert the face all the earth, 
the Takla-makan, object being strike the town Tatran, 
the Cherchen-daria, the other side the desert. That meant 
journey close upon 180 miles, twice the distance traversed 
1895 another part the same desert, the course which the 
whole caravan perished except one man. But now was the 
depth winter, and loaded four the camels with blocks ice, 
while two others carried fuel, and the seventh our provisions and furs, 
had tents with us, slept the whole that winter the 
open air, although the temperature fell below zero. had 
husband the camels’ strength, took with for the first two days 
small reserve caravan two men and three camels, the latter carry- 
ing ice and but Christmas Eve sent them back. 

When set out from our camp, the inhabitants the district 
looked upon suicides; and both and Islam Bai knew only too 
well how dangerous the journey was. The desert opened out before 
like illimitable sea, and ere two days had passed became lost its 
endless labyrinths sand. Their conformation, however, lent great 
assistance our march. The prevailing winds blow from the east, 
and heap the sand ridges like gigantic waves, pile 
vast accumulations dunes 300 400 feet high. These the sheltered 
side down angle 33°; but the windward side, the east, 
they have gradual slope. But addition these north-and-south 
ridges there also another system sand-dunes disposed right 
angles the first, that lines running from east west. These 
have been built winds blowing from the north and from the south 
during the winter. 

The sand-dunes thus form kind network and the meshes 
there exist depressions which are often perfectly flat, and show the 
clay-soil underneath, swept free from sand. These spots the natives 


chain unnumbered lakes, which accompany the right bank the Tarim 
its course. 


Other circumstances unexpected nature also conspired the 
successful issue our enterprise. the middle the desert 
chanced upon some plots kamish (reeds); consequently the journey 


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228 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 


cost more than one camel. The remainder the troop stood the 
journey well, they swayed backwards and forwards like ships plough- 
ing over the waves the desert. The worst evil had contend 
against were the incessant storms, which whirled the sand front 
us, that were quite unable see any distance ahead. 
semi-darkness prevailed the whole the time; and sooner had 
left the small kamish oases behind us, than were again lost the 
labyrinthine network sand-dunes. make things worse, the hard 
clay depressions now disappeared. there exist sand deserts the 
moon, not think they can possibly more desolate than the Takla- 
makan. 

also exercise the strictest economy with our only 
certain number sticks were allowed doled out every 
Hence had wrap ourselves our furs and crouch close together 
round the fire keep ourselves warm; while jotted down notes 
the light single wretched lantern. were also obliged 
sparing with Yet, even though this had failed us, the heavens 
were kind, for, the beginning January, they took care that 
should not suffer from want water. For began snow, and con- 
tinued snowing for several days. used wake the morning 
completely buried under snow, that Islam Bai had set work 
and dig out warm lair with spade. The sandhills dis- 
appeared from sight entirely underneath the undulating sheet snow. 
sleep the open air with 60° frost is, however, far more interest- 
ing than agreeable. When sat over our camp-fire often had 
temperature 85° the side next the fire, but temperature 20° 
below zero the outer side the circle. 

last, January sighted the first tamarisk trees, and, that 
same evening, encamped the banks the ice-bound Cherchen- 
daria. From this point travelled up-country place called Andereh, 
distance 240 miles. Finally, way the ancient bed the 
Ettek-tarim, now dry, and after that unknown paths, reached 
Yanghi-koll again February 24. Here was joined two Buryats, 
Cossacks, who had spent four months the journey 
from Trans-Baikalia. 

March was again the saddle, with face towards the 
eastern part the desert regions, the head new and well-rested 
caravan, made follows: the Cossack Chernoff, six Mussulmans, 
twelve camels, and one horse. first object was map the 
daria, the dried-up bed what was formerly outlet the Tarim, 
when that river flowed into the ancient lake Lob-nor. The upper 
part this ancient river-bed exceptionally well defined, and contains, 
even the present day, few salt-water pools. Further on, however, 
completely dry, and parts entirely obliterated. 

But return our journey. One day, the very middle our 


THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 


march, were overtaken sandstorm such violent character 
that the whole caravan was brought sudden halt. These storms 
loom the east like black wall, and swoop down upon you like 
impenetrable fog reddish yellow sand and dust. Whilst this particu- 
lar storm was raging lost touch caravan, and spent consider- 
able time wandering about before could find again. could only 
get one half tent under the shelter sandhill. But the 
sand rained through the canvas, and every single object that was 
lying about became covered with it. even gets into your mouth 
and grits between your teeth. cook food such tempest 
course absolutely out the question, when the wind blowing the 
rate miles hour. cup water and piece bread was all 
could get eat. The camels lay perfectly still, with their necks 
stretched out leeward, and the men tightly their coats. 
There amazing force locked these desert storms. The 
quantities material they lift and carry away, and deposit 
other places, enormous. 

last found water Yardang-bulak, little well the foot 
the mountain. ‘lhe well itself was tremendously salt, but the sheets 
ice upon contained fresh water. Wild camels were common 
these parts, and shot couple. 

From this point our route lay along the bed the Kum-daria, 
sometimes the channel itself, sometimes along its bank. Here 
three separate occasions came upon fragments earthenware, 
showing that the banks this river were formerly inhabited, although 
for centuries the ground has not been moistened with drop water. 
further advanced towards the east, the more desolate grew the 
desert. poplar trees which stood the banks the river-bed 
were thousand years old, and brittle and fragile glass—the 
grave-stones, were, the ancient forest. 

After this came most remarkable oasis, namely, Altimish- 
bulak, the Sixty Wells. again found salt water, with big 
blocks ice close proximity. These salt-wells furnish sustenance 
vigorous patches (reeds) and belts tamarisks, but all 
huddled together within such narrow space that was easy 
imagine had landed upon islet the middle the desert sea. 
When were still distance off, the hunters party 
made out herd camels, consisting old male and five young 
animals, grazing amongst the bushes. The caravan came halt, and 
went with the stalkers for the purpose examining the creatures 
through They were barely 100 paces distant, and 
looked really splendid their light brown woolly winter coats. Two 
them were lying down, the others grazing, whilst the old one was 


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Abdu-Rehim, crept stealthily through the bushes like panther. 
When fired, the entire herd took their heels, and went off 
whirling cloud dust—all except one, young and handsome male, 
whose flesh made very welcome addition our larder. The wild 
camel certainly wonderful animal. You find him the dreariest 
parts the desert. only short time each oasis, but like 
ship the ocean the desert, continually passing backwards and 
forwards. Nobody knows how lives. springs out the 
dried-up earth were ghost, and vanishes like the wind, and 
when disturbed his peaceful haunts does not stop his wild flight 
for days and nights together. 

was important halting-place; and was from 
there proposed cross the desert southerly direction. dis- 
tance Kara-koshun, where expected find game, could covered 
week, and even our supply water did give out, knew that 
were hardly likely perish thirst. Amongst other stores 
took four sacks filled with ice; but, spite our utmost care 
protect them from the sun, two pailfuls dripped away during the first 
day two the march. few steps only away from the wells 
Altimish-bulak, and were again mid-desert. The contour soon 
began fall away gradually the direction the old Lob-nor lake, 
which was indicated belt dead forest. Here found myriads 
shells, that the ground was many places quite white 
with them. was here, too, that Chernoff and latter one 
the men brought with from Yanghi-koll—discovered the ruins 
two three houses. The beams other parts their wooden frame- 
work lay scattered about the ground, half buried under dust and 
sand. One circumstance which once lent considerable antiquity 
the buildings was the fact that they stood upon pediments clay, that 
say, narrow mounds, about feet high, which had been built 
suit the plan the houses. Originally these clay footings were con- 
structed the level ground; but the north-east wind, its restless 
activity, had scooped out the ground all around them, and swept clean 
away. The clearest indications the enormous erosive power the 
wind these parts exist everywhere throughout the desert, the clay 
soil being many places furrowed with trenches feet depth 
the direction which the winds blow and, consequence this, 
you often appear marching amongst benches and tables all made 
clay. 

collected specimens the wood-carving from the houses, and 
dug some Chinese coins, besides axes, sacrificial cups, and so-forth. 
The roof each house lay piled its west side, and under the 
shelter the house itself. doubt had been hurled there the 
last desert storm, which had been unable withstand. 

But our water-supply would not allow stay more than 


THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 251 


twenty-four hours this place, were obliged continue our march 
southwards, though not until had photographed the ruins and 
measured the site. 

That evening, just when were going dig well our new 
camping-ground, get water for the camels, discovered that 
had forgotten our spade; had been left behind the And 
the spade was implement great importance us, sent Ordek 
back fetch it. Accordingly started back the next morning, while 
continued our march. Not long after this violent sandstorm came 
down upon us, and feared the worst for our solitary traveller. But 
Ordek’s topographical instinct did not fail him. Although lost our 
track, nevertheless succeeded making his way back the ruins, 
and, his return with the spade, brought with him what was even 
more important, namely, some fresh wood-carvings, executed with still 
perfection than those discovered first. Besides that, 
also gave information such character that felt must all 
costs return these sites ancient civilization. then was, 
however, impossible; had control patience until the following 
winter. 

Our supply water was just the point giving out when 
length reached the shore completely new lake, which spread out 
the north the marsh Kara-koshun. was fed equally 
new branch the Tarim, which left that river Shirgeh-chappgan. 

made the return journey canoes, first the new branch and 
then along the Tarim and the network waterways which make 
its delta. The twenty-five days this canoe journey lasted would have 
been very delightful had not been for the midges, which tormented 
unmercifully every evening. 

now mapped out detail the lakes which had discovered 
previous journey, namely, Avullu-koll, Kara-koll, Tayek-koll, Arka- 
koll, and Chivillik-koll, tegether with several others which that 
occasion escaped observation. found that they reached depth 
feet; and one arm the river this same neighbourhood 
sounded depth 41} feet, seven and half times more than any- 
where else the newly formed marsh Kara-koshun. 

indeed significant fact that the deepest depression the Lob 
region found, not the termination the hydrographical system, 
but here the region which, from remote antiquity, has borne the 
name Lob. 

The May saw again the Yanghi-koll, where found 
everything peaceable and well. this the river had begun swell 
from the melting the ice, and its volume now measured 3400 cubic 
feet the second, about the same Lailik, where began 
voyage its waters, 

Next sent off, under the charge the Cossack Cherdon, big 


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232 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 


caravan horses and mules, instructing him make for Temirlik, 
the Chimen-tagh, and after them the camels, bound for the same place, 
under Chernoff and Islam Bai. Meanwhile, myself continued 
journey, along with Sirkin and Shagdur, the big boat, and 
finished laying down maps the lower Tarim. 

Our huts now stood empty and abandoned. The native traders 
departed quest more profitable markets; but the place needed 
name for future identification, was, consequently, called Tura- 
sallgan-uy, which means “the houses built the All 
very nice way. But the very next spring-flood that came swept 
away the whole our bank the river; our huts vanished off the 
face the earth, and, together with the poplars, were swallowed 
oblivion. 

During the course journey down the big river, investigated 
and sounded many the peculiar lateral lakes which lie 
embedded amongst the dunes drift-sand immediately along its right 
bank. They are like growths parasites, which suck away, were, 
the life-blood the river. For instance, the time examined it, 
the lake Karunalik was receiving through very small feeder 
volume equivalent over cubic feet the second. Thus this 
one small lake alone drains away from the Tarim close upon 300,000 
cubic feet water every twenty-four hours. This, then, striking 
characteristic the lower Tarim. Instead gathering itself together 
and pouring its waters body into the terminal basin, filters 
itself away number lagoons strung all alongside the principal 
channel. And the lower-lying portions the region become filled 
and raised the accumulated sedimentary matters which the river 
brings down with it, the lateral lagoons flit steadily higher and higher 
the stream. Many these lakes are carefully preserved the 
natives for the sake the fish which they contain. First they stop 
the channel which supplies the lake with water from the river. 
This causes the lake become stagnant, and begins shrink 
evaporation, whereupon the water becomes slightly salt, which 
believed make the fish bigger and more palatable. The natives 
catch them drag-net pulled along two canoes. 

this region the river makes its way immediately along the foot 
the sand-dunes. You would think these sandhills would swept 
away the unceasing wind-storms which prevail but one measured, 
which stood close the bank, rose height 295 feet, and this was 
not the highest saw that position. The simple explanation this 
fact that the river-bed shifts.as the sand shifts—that is, towards the 
right, westwards. And, matter fact, have seen that the 
Tarim formerly flowed down the bed the Kum-daria, nearly 
east, instead of, now, towards the south. Sometimes the river 
undecided its course. overflows its banks and makes its way 


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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 


through lakes choked with reeds. where was only 
the utmost exertions that were able punt our boat along 
through the unprecedentedly dense masses (reeds), was 
lake this description. The only way get along was set fire 
the vegetation and burn down the edge, and then cut 
channel through the tight-packed reed-stalks which remained. 

Towards the end May enveloped veritable clouds 
gnats and gadflies, and was forced have hut put the fore- 
part the deck instead the tent. Meanwhile the heat increased 
day day. 

May travelled canoe the Lake Beglik-koll, and sounded 
it. The great sheet water was placid mirror, and reflected 
the sand-dunes with the accuracy Towards evening, after 
work was done, the west shore the lake rest. 
Kirghin Pavan, one old friends who dwelt that part 
the country, pointed towards the sand-dunes the east, and cried, 
tone interrogation, (“black storm”), which signifies 
desert storm the worst description. inky black 
pillar towered the horizon and bent its head forwards across the 
desert, whilst several similar pillars leapt beside like buttresses, 
supporting it. Then they melted together into one continuous wall, 
which rose higher and higher the air. lake, however, spite 
the oncoming storm, still maintained its mirror-like placidity. 
had still good distance row before could enter the channel 
which led into the Tarim, gave the order start once. The men 
rowed with such desperate haste that every moment expected hear 
the paddles snap two. Their backs were bent like bows raced 
along over the sleeping waters, making the foam spin high off the bows 
the canoe. were going the rate hour. The 
atmosphere was still calm, but watched the portentous swiftness 
with which the tempest bore down upon us, felt the full pre- 
monition the appalling change which was about take place. 
Such moments these are magnificent, but put severe strain upon 
one. it’s got the sand-dunes!” cried one the men. 
glanced and saw the outlines the dunes disappearing though 
they were being washed off slate, and moment the entire labyrinth 
sand-dunes, together with the lake shore, was thick 
yellow-gray fog. row!” shouted the Mussulmans. Allah! 
Yes!” came the answer hollow and awe-struck tones. 

Down came the first gusts wind from the east-north-east. With 
mighty roar the “black tempest” swooped down upon the water, 
which, hissing and boiling, was two minutes lashed into huge waves 
white foam. Our boat flew along terrific miles 
hour. were only about mile distant from the northern shore. 
Allah! can’t it!” was the cry. But just the moment 


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234 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 


when the tempest seized its grip, and would assuredly have 
capsized our frail craft had not thrown all our weight over 
the windward side time, were suddenly enveloped im- 
penetrable fog the finest dust. surroundings were absolutely 
blotted out, and became lost the darkness. utmost could 
distinguish was the nearest waves, and down which our canoes 
danced like straws. 

were our last gasp, speak, when caught the first 
glimpse the tamarisks looming through the fog. The canoes were 
full water that they were ready sink but were protected 
tongue sand which acted breakwater. Once the lake 
Gillmeh-ghetti our two canoes did fill with water, and sank out the 
open lake. But fortunately the water was shallow that were 
easily able walk ashore. The depth none these lakes exceeds 
feet, and the greatest depth always found close the eastern 
shore, under the shelter the steep 

Beyond Argan the Tarim again swells out into large and powerful 
river flowing well-defined channel. now pushed rapidly, 
often keeping until three o’clock the morning, escape the gad- 
flies. The way was led torches and lanterns, which flitted ahead 
like St. Elmo’s fires, the accompaniment accordion which had 
brought with entertain the people. One evening were over- 
taken canoe, which came creeping alongside our big boat like 
eel. turned out courier from Kashgar bringing letters 
the solitude the desert. the fishing hamlet Chegghelik 
abandoned trusty old craft, the great delight the grateful 
natives. The only way which the remainder the journey, far 
Abdal, could accomplished was tying our canoes together, 
covering them with deck, and setting tents upon it. Abdal 
rested some days, and, with the ready help afforded handy 
and reliable Cossacks, prepared mail-bag and got ready number 
photographic plates. the same place also made collection 
the popular songs, which for centuries have been sung the poor but 
interesting fisher-folk who dwell there. Then, but with smaller 
caravan, continued journey towards our principal camp 
Mandarlik the Chimen-tagh. And there were all once more 
collected together again. 

From that place sent back Sirkin and Chernoff Kashgar, fetch 
some Chinese silver money, some tinned provisions, and letters, and 
July started upon difficult and exhausting journey right across 
Eastern Tibet. appointed the Cossack Cherdon valet-de-chambre, 
and Bai headman the caravan. One the 
most useful members company was Abdat, the hunter, who knew 
Northern Tibet from having spent six winters amongst its mountains 


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THE TARIM, NEAR KARAUL. 


ARKA-TAG CHAIN. 


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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 235 


hunting wild yaks single-handed. did this make profit out 
their skins. caravan consisted six men, seven camels, twelve 
horses, one mule, sixteen sheep, and two dogs. The greater part it, 
however, under the leadership Shagdur and Islam Bai, was instructed 
proceed later and there wait until joined them. 

was fine summer weather when left but had 
barely gone two days’ march when encountered violent snow- 
storm. Under cover this, band venturesome wolves came and 
frightened our flock sheep out the camp and killed nine them. 
Later captured two young wolves, and tried take them with 
us; but one escaped, and the other gnawed himself death. 

Three days’ journeying from the principal camp brought over 
the mountains and the fourth over the parallel ranges 
the Arka-tagh and Kalta-Alagan, high but easy passes. Among 
these mountains always had much attend that seldom got 
into camp until long after the rest the caravan. One day the con- 
formation the country was more than usually complicated, and when 
darkness fell, putting stop all further work, found myself obliged 
spend the night with Cossack attendant the open air, without 
either warm clothing supper. 

the south the Kalta-Alagan mountains the surface level 
slopes imperceptibly down towards the sister lakes Kum-koll, one 
which, the upper lake, contains fresh water, but the other, the lower 
lake, salt water. Beyond these lakes again there stretched belt 
drift-sand, with dunes over 150 feet height. The steppe was dotted 
with thousands grazing wild asses. men cortrived 
catch two young ones, and very soon they became perfectly tame. 
fed them with milk-porridge, which they drank greedily; but 
spite that they would not thrive, had them killed. The natives 
declared would useless turn them adrift rejoin their mothers, 
for the old wild ass refuses take any notice her offspring once they 
have been the hands man. 

During the latter part July marched straight south, 
towards the Arka-tagh, and crossed successively its four 
chains one after the other. This tried the animals’ strength severely 
but they came through all right. Amid these complicated mountain 
chains was not always easy hit upon the best road and every time 
found fresh snowy range confronting us, had send horseman 
ahead reconnoitre the way. August went over the fourth 
the parallel chains the Arka-tagh and descended into the great 
longitudinal valley which traversed 1896. Inthe evening could 
only get little warm tea drink, after had broken one our boxes 
pieces make fire with. Here encamped the shore 
salt lake region unmitigated sterility. The very bottoms the 


valleys are here some 350 feet higher than the summit Mont Blanc. 


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236 THREE EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 


Next floundered into region which, for pure 
absolutely without parallel. The surface consisted sand and mud, 
saturated with water like bog, that the animals sank 
their knees. The moisture, becoming thickened the snow and hail, 
does not run off the ground, but sinks down into it, making soft and 
spongy and fearfully treacherous. Our animals kept falling incessantly, 
and every time had unloaded before they could got again. 
This part the journey cost one camel and one horse. There was 
not blade grass found anywhere; and the continuous falls 
snow, mingled with hail, caused our camels suffer much from the 
cold that were forced give every sack and blanket which could 
spared make into rugs keep them warm. 

After crossing two fresh mountain chains, with extensive, but short, 
glacier-fields, encamped, August 21, the northern shore 
unusually large salt This decided cross boat the 
company one man, Kutchuk, act boatman, while the caravan 
went round the west side point indicated the opposite 
south shore. 

The course steered across this very remarkable lake was towards 
the south-east. The eastern shore was not, however, visible. Our 
six-foot punting-poles touched the bottom almost every part; and 
the boat itself had carried more than mile before could 
made float. The bottom the lake was covered with thick 
salt, over the rugged surface which was not 
pleasant walk barefoot. The water isso salt that the indicator 
hydrometer came standstill couple inches above the surface, 
and had make special mark the glass preserve the register. 
the boat—instruments, punting-poles, tackle, clothes— 
all became white chalk, looked they had been dusted 
with flour. The drops water which fell from the punting-pole were 
converted into rods salt, which looked like stearine candles. 
wonder this lake was sterile the Dead Sea. 

When reached the southern shore was rapidly growing dark. 
there was not the slightest sign the caravan seen. Accord- 
ingly, had alternative but spend the night the desolate 
shore without either water, and the only shelter could find 
was the two halves the English boat. Kutchuk, the boatman, turned 
one half the little boat over though were bell-glass; and 

that way although narrow domicile reminded forcibly 
coffin, more especially Kutchuk heaped the sand all round the 
edges keep out the draught. came snow; but cared little 
for that, though the big flakes pattered the oil-skin covering the 
boat many tiny spirits the air trying get us. 

The next day, aided favourable winds, sailed the west, and 
found that the caravan had been its march stream. 


THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 237 


160 feet wide and feet deep, and had consequently encamped its 
northern raked together everything which any way 
partook the nature rope, tied them all together, and stretched 
them across the river between two firmly fixed camel ladders, and 
that way conveyed the across thirteen instalments. ‘The 
horses swam over their own accord, but the camels were 
some. ‘They refused budge inch, lift foot, and lay 
down composedly the middle the stream, and even left hold 
their heads above water with stout ropes. the mean time little 
collapsible boat, which itself made fourth part camel’s load, was 
great assistance conveying over the rest the caravan. 
The river which caused this obstruction flowed out fresh-water 
lake, fed swift glacier torrents, and, the time which speak, 
was carrying down 1625 cubic feet water per second. 

travelled towards the south, our provisions began give 
out, and there was only ammunition enough for Aldat the 
gun. camp No. where there was fair pasture, gave the 
camels nine-days’ rest. Meanwhile with some 
conditioned horses and three men, made excursion the south-east, 
examine and map highly peculiar lake-region, where water was 
more plentiful than dry land. Two large fresh-water lakes, extending 
from west east, gather several streams and brooks from over 
very considerable area, and give off another bread stream which 
enters salt lake situated farther northwards. 

the northern shore the eastern lake red sandstone cliffs 
plunge sheer down into the water. fished one morning with 
great success; and, whilst the other members the caravan marched 
round the lake, Kutchuk and measured its depth, and found 
1574 feet. Here again were overtaken hailstorm; but, fortu- 
nately, the wind was favourable, and drove southwards tre- 
mendous The inside our little boat became quite white with 
hail and snow, and failed get even glimpse the shore. But 
before landed sunset the storm had western lake 
also was sounded snowstorm. now decided make for the west 
and the and cross the mountain chains which had climbed 
over our way south, and return While the caravan 
under the direction Turdu Bai turned towards the north, accom- 
panied Cherdon and Aldat, rode towards the south-west, examine 
mountain knot which saw that direction, and four 
days later rejoined the rest. After this, the second day, pitched 
our tents the highest elevation have ever encamped Asia 
elsewhere. hypsometers and aneroids registered inches; con- 
sequently were halfway through the atmospheric envelope which 
surrounds the earth. few hundred feet above the spot where were 
encamped saw old yak licking the lichens and moss from the stones. 

No. 


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238 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 


Aldat crept upon him cat, and brought him down paces. But 
that proved Aldat’s last achievement for fell violently ill, and 
had carried along the back camel, and the end few 
days died. buried him the wilderness, and raised above his 
grave tent-pole, with yaks’ tails fastened it, and strip cloth 
with the date written Arabic and Roman numerals. 

September 14, our fiftieth camping-place, encountered 
snowstorm, the equal which have hardly ever seen even the 
Alai valley. The snow simply came down sheets, and was driven 
the wind into snow-wreaths with amazing rapidity, that few 
minutes tent was surrounded high thick wall; and was 
impossible obtain either firewood pasture for the animals. 

fearful racket from the dogs. bear had coolly walked right 
into the camp, and was going about snifling and inspecting everything, 
and when the alarm was given, trotted off again with the same nonchu- 
lance. had economical with our ammunition, was 
allowed away scot-free. Cherdon was good shot, and capital 
hand bringing down yaks, khlans, and antelopes, but forbade 
unnecessary shedding blood. 

Here again the surface consisted nothing but pure mud; but 
froze sharply night, the ground was hard the morning. one 
occasion, however, one the camels broke through the frozen crust 
and sank into the mud. once ran and pulled off his load and his 
pack-saddle but the harder worked the softer grew the ground all 
round him, and before had done was like toad basin 
porridge. last managed pull him out, one leg time, 
putting felts under each foot got up; but the poor brute was 
utterly exhausted, and looked like half-tinished piece statuary still 
the hands. 

last, however, but again the midst raging snowstorm, 
once more crossed the Arka-tagh, and encamped the western side 
the lake October still going north; crossed 
over pass the mountain chain which forms the northern boundary 
the basin Achik-koll. The cold was intense, and here again also 
had contend with violent snowstorm. Five horses succumbed 
the summit the pass. was not blade grass had, 
not even much moss, After that our route still lay northwards 
through the well-defined valley Fogri-Sai, fenced granite 
escarpments. this region chanced upon so-called deposit 
gold, which, however, was deserted for the autumn and winter. 
also found spot where the valley begins open out interesting 
carving, representing tiger, yak, and antelope hunt. was ccn- 
siderable antiquity, for the hunters were depicted using cross-bows. 
Another discovery the same region was religious stone 


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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 239 


monument erected Mongolian pilgrims, and inscribed with the 
formula prayer, maneh padmeh hum.” Here also 
fortunately fell with couple yak-hunters, whom sent our 
principal camp with message asking for assistance. After losing two 
three more camels and horses, length struck the broad valley 
distance—to us, who for three months had not seen the face any 
human being except ourselves, most welcome sight. although 
pressed until midnight, were unable reach it, and, 
thoroughly done up, were compelled encamp where were. was 
Islam Bai, who perceived the next morning, soon after met 
with fifteen horses laden with provisions. This was October 
Four days later our wanderings came end; entered the head- 
quarters camp, and were once more home. 

next expedition was one twenty-five days’ duration, its object 
the exploration the mountain chains which shut the valley 
Chimen the north and the south, well take soundings 
the lake Kum-koll. Accordingly crossed the Chimen-tagh and 
the Kalta-Alagan mountains the shores the salt lake, upon which 
spent two days boating. found that the greatest depth the 
Kum-koll was feet. was decidedly cool sleeping out the open 
air with the thermometer down 84° below zero. One men was 
attacked disease his feet, which dropped off piece piece. 
managed save his life. 

journeys were not, however, yet end; but December 
12, 1900, again left Temirlik with escort nine men, eleven 
camels, ten horses, and three dogs. After paying visit the salt 
the top encountered diflicult pass, where steps had literally 
hewn out and the camels assisted over one one. then continued 
our march between the parallel chains the Astyn-tagh, where 
came upon traces ancient Mongol road. the first day the 
new century reached Anam-baruin-gol, and after spending twenty 
days marching round the vast mountain knot Anambar-ula, wound 
visiting the Sirting Mongols, who gave friendly reception 
and replenished our stock provisions. The temperature now sank 
below zero (Fahr.), which would not have mattered much had 
the wind not blown with such steady persistency. 

From Anambaruin-gol sent back two men and seven horses 
Charkhlik, our next rendezvous. did not think could take more 
than three horses with across the desert, and consequently ordered 

the rest the men, the end forty-five days, the northern 
shore Lake Kara-koshun, three days’ journey north-east Kum- 
chappgan, with fresh horses and provisions, and letters. And 


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240 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 


directed them guide through the desert setting fire the 
reed-beds the lake every evening. January 27, taking with 
the remainder the caravan, left Anambar and crossed the Gobi 
desert west Sa-chau, journey ten days, the well 
kuduk, situated the desert route between Abdal and Sa-chau. 
the way passed through different kinds country—steppes, 
low mountains, complete sandy desert, with considerable 
altitude, and finally steppes again. 

The little oasis Tograk-kuduk was then made the starting-point 
dangerous but interesting journey. took with ice last 
twelve days, for ourselves and the horses; and, turned out, was 
precisely the quantity that was needed. Our camels were just begin- 
ning feel the want water, but the whole bore the journey well. 
marched northwards, the rate miles day, mostly 
over wretched asar (eskirs) and ridges, scarce big enough called 
mountains. They were, however, greatly weathered, and the country 
utterly barren and desolate, without drop water anywhere. 

February came the first buran the year and was bitterly 
cold that had foot prevent ourselves from being frozen 
death. night were only able make little tea the cost 
two the tent-poles with which make the fire. the 1%th the 
storm still continued but had firewood any descrip- 
tion whatever, were obliged content ourselves with sucking small 
pieces ice and munching dry bread—hardly fitting repast for such 
truly arctic weather were then experiencing. The tracks wild 
camel were exceptionally frequent, and observed them with the 
greatest interest, and noted them down they might 
later point important conclusions. Our situation was now critical. 
stock ice was exhausted, and the camels had not drunk drop 
water for twelve days. Fortunately, that same evening reached 
spot where the wild-camel tracks all converged into one common 
track, which eventually led into valley, the beginning which, 
sure enough, there was salt-well, surrounded belt fresh- 
water ice, few inches thick. also was had the same 
place, stayed there two days, the camels, meanwhile, quenching 
their thirst crunching the ice, which hewed pieces for them. 

bulak. discovered that was just under miles out reckoning, 
which was not very bad, considering that route was determined 
upwards 10,000 compass observations, extending over distance 
more than 1300 miles. Here sighted large herd camels, 
and Shagdur shot two them, one being full-grown he-camel, whose 
skin and skeleton took with us. Leaving behind the oasis three 
weak camels and all the horses, charge one man, took with 
the rest the caravan, and sufficient ice last for week, and set out 


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CHARKHLIK 
NATIVES ABDALL. 


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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 241 


visit the ruins which had noticed the previous year. reached 
the place the end the third day, and made stationary camp 
the vicinity big tower, constructed burnt and sun-dried bricks. 
Our investigations resulted the discovery small village nine- 
teen houses, which carefully surveyed, and then had dug out. Our 
finds embraced some Chinese money, several small articles, the 
wheel arba, Turkestan cart, various kinds utensils, pottery, 
and wood-carvings, which had been used decorate the houses, etc. 
the village which Ordek had discovered the previous year found 
and examined small Buddhist shrine, which must one time have 
been beautifully ornamented, you will perceive from the specimens 
which are here displayed for your inspection. The interior the 
shrine contained image Buddha enthroned. trunk 
also included collection. While the excavations were 
progress, small piece wood was flung aside being value; 
but picked up, and found covered with native hieroglyphics, which 
the savants have not yet succeeded deciphering. the north the 
shrine seems have been protected poplar woods, but towards the 
south looked out over the thick reed-beds which fringed the ancient 
lake Lob-nor. one piece timber, the way, there was, 
amongst other objects, fish depicted. 

The brick tower which just now mentioned was feet high, and 
afforded excellent view over the desert. wondered whether was 
any way akin the which are found near Kashgar, and tried 
dig through it. But there was nothing its interior. was 
probably watch-tower, signal-tower,in times war, fires being 
kindled its corners. 

discovered three other similar towers, and four villages altogether. 
importance remember that all these ancient habitations lay 
line which ran from the north-north-west the south-south-east, 
and which, consequently, coincided with great high-road that led 
along the northern shore the lake. two three the houses 
there were large quantities fish bones, the same species those 
which now live the Kara-koshun. Amongst other things also 
found wheat and rice, and parts the skeletons sheep. 

another the houses, built sun-dried brick, and resembling 
stable more than anything else, came upon large quantity 
papers and letters written over with Chinese writing. This was grand 
discovery. These ancient documents would throw flood light upon 
the history the place. prosecuted our labours with double zeal. 
But these were the only manuscripts found, and they lay buried under 
feet sand. the same place, however, dug out forty-two small, 
narrow wooden wands, also written over with the same kind writing. 
return home sent these materials the learned sinologue, Mr. 
Wiesbaden, who now deciphering them. soon had 


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242 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902, 


made preliminary examination them, Mr. Himly wrote saying that 
the data and other indications pointed period between the middle 
the third and the beginning the fourth century objects 
themselves appear have belonged wealthy Chinese merchant, who 
supplied commodites every description, let out carriages and beasts 
burden hire, besides conveying letters Tun-kwang, Sa-chau. 
Travellers going the latter city used horses, carriages, and even oxen. 
One the documents appears contain allusion military cam- 
paign, but gives indication date. Amongst the geographical 
names mentioned find the very one which designates the country 
here question, viz. Lau-lan.* The inhabitants must also have been 
engaged agriculture, for one the principal items the manuscripts 
consists weights and measures some them also name 
this the other kind corn. Possibly there once stood the site 
where the manuscripts were found old revenue office, sort 
grain-bank,’ where grain was bought and stored, received security 
for loans advanced. The papers exhibit one strange peculiarity, being 
written both sides—a practice which does not now obtain 
China either writing printing. 
any case, the collection manuscripts which you have brought 
home with you one great interest, even the (‘hinese, and will 
unquestionably form the subject scientific speculation for some time 
come. Some the sheets are nothing more than simple exercises 
others consist fragments only. both cases the style 
writing differs but little from that which now use China. The 
wooden wands have this advantage over the paper manuscripts, that each 
contains one more complete sentences as, for example, antelope 
delivered, such and such quantity seed-corn has been handed in, 
many men have been furnished with provisions for month, 
longer. judge from one passage, the official who lived this place 
would seem have governed pretty large province. The passage 
runs thus: approaching army met the frontier (or the 
shore?) forty officials, and the farmsteads are many.’ seems also 
have had two native chieftains close dependence upon him. The 
majority the dates the manuscripts fall between the years 264 and 
270 265 the emperor Yiian-te the Wei dynasty died, and was 
succeeded the north China Wu-te the Tsin dynasty, who died 
270. Most the copper coins that are legible are what are known 
wu-chu pieces, variety which was struck between 118 and 
581 Numerous other pieces belong the mintage, which 
goes back Wang-mang, who held the reins power between and 
Thus the dates the coins agree fully with the indications 
date conveyed the letters and the wooden wands.” 


the following article Mr. Macartney. 


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THREE EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902, 245 


These few observations Mr. Himly, his first cursory exami- 
nation the materials which have brought home with me, will serve 
indicate the value the information which have been instru- 
mental unearthing from the sands the great desert Central Asia. 
For one thing, they throw unsuspected light upon the physical and 
political geography the interior Asia during the first centuries 
after Christ, and show what prodigious changes have taken place 
that part the world during the last fifteen hundred years. The name 
the writings Edrisi, and learned mandarin 
Kashgar, whom showed the manuscripts, told that, according 
the old Chinese geographies, the country round the present Pityan, 
near was formerly called Lau-lan. Read connection with the 
physico-geographical investigations which have made into the move- 
ments the lake Lob-nor, these historical data are inestimable 
value. Not only they give information about the country 
Lau-lan the northern shore the ancient Lob-nor, but they also 
throw light upon several unsolved problems connected with the region 
which lies halfway between China and the countries 
tell there was regular post between Lob-nor and Sa-chau, and, conse- 
quently, there must have been route regular communication through 
the ancient road which ran from Korla alongside the 
Concheh-daria, where previously discovered chain brick towers 
(pao-tais), well the fort Merdek-shahr, acquire entirely new 
importance the light these more recent facts. Numerous ruins 
exist also Yin-pen, another important station that same highway. 

question agriculture, having been followed ancient times 
Lau-lan, one very great interest. How was possible carry 


iton? Not one rivulet flows down from the Kurruk-tagh 
not one drop rain ever falls from the sky. Canals, irrigation 
similar those which are found all over Eastern the 
present day, must have been made from the river which flowed into 
grain-banks spoken still exist every town Eastern 
Turkestan, under the control the Chinese authorities, and serve the 
purpose securing equal distribution bread amongst the natives. 
four villages only, one them consisting not more 
than nineteen houses; but there reason why the desert should 
not yet yield many other valuable remains. The mention 
forty officials, military expedition, and many farms, points the 
inference that Lou-lan was well-peopled region. Possibly the people 


dwelt perishable reed-huts, they the present day. Time, 


however, will not permit linger longer this interesting subject. 
must return journeyings. soon arrived the ruins, 
sent the camels back get pasture and fetch ice. 
Upon their return, the end week, broke camp, and 
marched southwards, beginning what turned out most interesting 


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and instructive journey across the desert. own party consisted 
one Cossack, three Mussulmans, and four camels. The rest sent, 
under the command Faysulla, who had accompanied the year 
before, the south-west, with instructions try and get Kum 
chappgan. this, however, they failed, being stopped vast sheets 
water quite recent formation, that they were driven far west 
the Tarim. And was consumed with anxiety about them until 
learned they were alive, though they lost all their horses and 
ran short supplies. Meanwhile our party had difficult and 
tedious task perform, namely, take exact instrumental measure- 
ments for determining the slope the desert from north south; that 
say, from the northern bank the ancient Lob-nor the northern 
shore the existing lake Kara-koshun. The contours the region 
were, however, peculiarly favourable for our purpose, being level 
the sea, except for the furrows scooped out the wind, that was 
able continue measurements direct line, without hindrance. 
The distances between the levelling instrument and the staff were 
taken with the tape, and the total distance worked out miles. 
This cost eight long days’ work, and course obliged all 
but took four camels with us, chiefly carry ice. 

the very first day had adventure which might have 
proved disastrous. myself started early, with assistants and 
levelling instruments, after giving orders one the men follow 
with the camels couple hours later, make détour round us, 
and then meet the appointed camping-ground. One the camels 
carried, amongst other things, all maps and note-books. 
worked all day, and measured miles and 1196 yards, and that 
distance there was fall only inches. When darkness set 
the caravan was nowhere seen, and made big signal-fire 
the edge the dead forest, which happened just there come 
end. Shagdur set out hunt for the caravan. had missed 
was doomed, and our situation, too, would very critical, for 
had not one drop water with us. fortunately our signal- 
fire was visible great distance, and the camel-driver turned 
the course the evening with everything all right. 

That same night storm got the east, and compelled 
strike work for the whole the next day. But Shagdur had not 
returned, However, was provided with compass, and was 
quite familiar with methods mapping, had not the slightest 
anxiety his account. turned out, did take the precaution 
noting his compass bearings the moment left the camp, and 
during the course the next day turned all right. This 
regard triumph native intelligence, secing that the region was 
perfectly flat, without any distinctions contour, and violent storm, 
accompanied impenetrable fog, was raging all the time. 


THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 245 


soon the storm subsided, continued our levelling operations, 
and the end another day had descended feet inches. 
fact, crossed over depression which lies 26} feet below the level 
our point departure. During the two following days again 
ascended feet inches, but during the last three days once more 
descended something like feet. The result the cubic measure- 
ment showed that the surface Kara-koshun lay feet inches 
below our point departure the northern shore the ancient lake 
Lob-nor. the same time must not forgotten that during 
great part the second and third days were down below the 
present level Kara-koshun, and that our camp the second day 
our operations was pitched feet inches below the point 
departure. Without stopping analyze exhaustively the results 
this remarkable survey over miles, will only pause observe 
that proves the most conclusive way the existence the northern 
part the Lob desert depression with depth precisely similar 
that which sounded Kara-koshun. 

Upon reaching the northern shore this latter lake, our labours 
came end, and our next step was hasten back 
where the main body the caravan was supposed encamped. 
had instructed Tokta Ahun, one men, three days north- 
east and there light signal-fires for our guidance. 
But were see these, and the country grew perfectly 
barren approached the lake, sent Khoda Kullu, another 
men, westwards, foot look for them, and guide them the 
moment found them. But for several days nothing more was heard 
him, and as, the mean time, were reduced few ducks 
which Shagdur managed shoot, resolved follow after Khoda 
Kullu. But after going one day’s journey along the lake-shore, 
were stopped vast sheet water, stretching towards the north- 
east, which could neither see across nor get across. Just when 
were becoming hopelessly entangled amid this labyrinth waters, 
perceived three horsemen coming galloping from the north-east. The 
riders were faithful Cossack Chernoff, Tokta Ahun, and Khoda 
Kullu, the man sent out search the caravan. The latter, 
appeared, had travelled for five days reaching the encampment, 
and when did arrive was half dead with hunger. Now, strange 
say, the encampment went quest was all this while not more 
than miles distant from our own, and had there not prevailed dense 
fog during the whole this time, assuredly should not have missed 
secing their signal-fires. will appear almost incredible that Khoda 
Kullu should have taken five days ride matter only miles, but 
the fact was there lay between the two camps newly formed arm the 
river, flowing with volume upwards 1130 cubic feet water 
the second. ourselves were hemmed both sides this 


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246 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 


stream. the water flowed northwards prodigious rate, forming 
new lake went, took four days get roundit. had cost the 
mounted men three days’ hard riding reach us, and returned 
found their horses’ hoof-marks already under water, some places 
depth inches. Indeed, the water bubbled and boiled along 
such rate, and over such wide stretch country, that was 
dangerous encamp anywhere near its margin. Consequently, were 
obliged travel halfway back the ruined villages before could 
turn tothe west. After that bent round the south, until, finally, 
reached the caravan encampment, and found there everything needed. 

The lake Kara-koshun, which thus gradually disappearing 
the place where Prjevalsky found it, slowly creeping northwards, 
seeking return its ancient bed, where, perfectly convinced, 
will found great distance time. 

That such great changes these are able take place this part 
the world, which measurements have shown almost perfectly 
horizontal, not all surprising. The lake Kara-koshun, which 
has occupied its present situation for very long period, getting 
choked with mud and drift-sand and decaying vegetable matter 
while, the other hand, the northern part the desiccated desert 
being eroded and furrowed the winds, and thus growing deeper 
and deeper every vear. The basin which serves the terminal 
reservoir the Tarim system must necessarily extremely sensitive 
these changes level, determined they are purely mechanical 
laws and atmospheric depression strictly local character. 
simply physical necessity that the water that reservoir must 
ultimately overflow its basin and seek relatively lower level. Thus 
the action the wind, total transformation the map the 
district. the lake moves, the vegetation and the various 
animals the desert. They, well the fisher-folk, with their reed 
huts, follow after the new shores, while the old lake gradually dries 
up. the far-off future the same phenomena will recur again, but 
the reverse order, though the natural laws which will effect the reversal 
will remain precisely the same. Whenever that occurs shall 
position determine, the basis more complete accumulation 
data, what the length time required for these periodic move- 
ments. This, however, know already, with perfect certainty, 
that the year 265 the last year the reign the Emperor 
Té, the lake Lob-nor lay the northern part the desert. 
is, were, the oscillating pendulum the Tarim river, 
and even though each oscillation extends over space thousand 
years more, yet, measured the clock geological time, 


know that such periods are more account than many seconds 
time. 


PART THE NORTH SHORE BANGGONG-TSO. 


NORTH SHORE KUM-KOLL. 


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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 247 


After the completion this journey, pitched camp the 
little town Charkhlik, the edge the desert, and gave myself 
month’s much-needed rest. Meanwhile, however, organized and 
equipped the largest caravan have ever led into regions. 
comprised Mussulmans, Cossacks, Mongolian lama from Kara- 
Shahr, camels, horses and mules, asses, sheep, and dogs. 

Both men and animals were the very pink condition, and 
picturesque and imposing array they made, for was the most con- 
siderable caravan ever conducted European into Tibet. And yet 
how different was its appearance the end the year! How deci- 
mated and shattered 

sent the caravan, under the command two the Cossacks, 
well-known trails over the mountains which run along the northern 
boundary Tibet, and the great plateau that country. 
myself, taking with the other two Cossacks and some the horses, 
rode the bed the little river Charkhlik, most disagreeable 
road, encumbered was with loose stones. One day crossed the 
stream less than sixteen times, getting several wettings doing 
but did not lose anything except one horse-load supplies. Finally, 
after instructive journey over many difficult passes, reached the 
western shores the lake Kum-koll, the appointed rendezvous. 

June beheld the distance the long black line the 
caravan slowly wending its sinuous way towards us. was 
pleasure watch them battling through the storm, while the water 
the lake, crumpled into big waves, was dashing against the shore. 
The two Cossacks command, Chernoff and Cherdon, putting their 
heels into their horses’ sides, galloped ahead tent and reported, 
military style, that all was safe, and then the whole party filed 
past procession, which took them good hour accomplish, the 
camel-bells meanwhile jangling solemn harmony. And when they 
were all settled down into their new quarters they gave the lake-side 
the busy market. 

plan was march southwards until reached region with 
tolerable pasture, and there establish fixed camp basis from which 
carry further operations. difficult piece country still lay 
between and the Arka-tagh, the highest mountain range the face 
the Earth. The ground was soft and gave way under the animals’ 
feet, and got entangled bewildering labyrinth exasperating 
small hill ranges, where were again and again obliged turn back 
and retrace our steps. Every day sent pioneers advance 
reconnoitre and find out the best route for the caravan take. 
one place lost thirteen another nine: but saved their 
loads, and packed them the horses, though not before had cut 
them down considerably. Upon reaching the foothills which stretch 
front the mighty chains that form the Arka-tagh 


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248 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 


rested couple days reconnoitre and search fora pass. Here the 
animals got the last bite pasture they ate for long, long time. 

had just finished putting our tents and yurts (or Kirghiz 
tents), and turned the animals loose graze, when Chernoff came 
tell there was big bear trotting towards the camp, seemingly 
utterly indifferent the strange intruders his domain. Two the 
Cossacks seized their weapons and ran meet him. Their shots rang 
out both the same moment. Bruin sprang round, turned tail, and 
set off hill-slope. followed after him horseback. But 
before reached the top his strength failed him. fell, and came 
tumbling down the bottom the slope like ball. was 
old male, dark grizzly colour, and had been hunting through 
the marmots’ earths. judge from his hollow teeth, must one 
time have been furnished with formidable jaws. kept his skin and 
skeleton, and had them preserved. 

From our encampment the north side the Arka-tagh, 
sent home ten men and such the asses survived, and then continued 
march over the repellent mountains which, experience, have 
always been formidable surmount. made our way through 
sterile valleys littered with gravel, battered every day violent storms 
snow and hail and rain. this way the animals’ strength became 
more and more exhausted proportion their burdens were made 
heavier and heavier. 

The final slope the summit was extremely precipitous, and 
were repeatedly brought standstill the exhausted camels. 
The snow lay deep all around, and howling snowstorm made im- 
possible see the road front us. Three camels fell just below the 
pass, and were unable get again, that slaughtered them 
and left them, and two others shared the same fate the summit 
the pass. did not doom them until was unmistakably certain that 
their strength was utterly expended, then put end their suffer- 
ings, red stain the snow showing where their bones would soon 
lie bleaching under the terrible winds those awful altitudes. 

Once over the pass the Arka-tagh, pushed south through 
absolutely unknown region, where crossed innumerable mountain 
chains, over passes stupendous height, skirted the shores in- 
numerable lakes, and forded innumerable rivers, but almost the whole 
time through barren country, totally devoid that every 
day the caravan animals grew more emaciated. continued shoot 
yaks, wild asses, and antelopes, and consequently were want 
meat. The Cossacks also kept the camp supplied with partridges and 
wild geese. 

The same parallelism the mountain ranges which prevails 
throughout the whole higher Asia characterizes the region which 

now speaking—that say, the chains run from west east, 


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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL 1899-1902. 


and were travelling from north south, had consequently 
cross over every them. 

camp No. weeded out the twelve worst camels, besides 
number inferior horses, and left them follow after 
slower pace, under the charge the Cossack Chernoff and four Mus- 
sulmans. Then, taking with the rest the caravan, pushed 
all the faster towards the south. 

Rain and snow had made the ground soft pap; indeed, was 
though the earth were attenuated like the atmosphere, and were 
unable sustain any weight. one the worst passes big camel 
literally sank right into the bog, and could not rescued. Every 
time endeavoured approach the spot where lay ran the 
greatest risk sharing the same fate. could only hope that the 
next day, when the surface the ground was stiffened little the 
frost, might able sheer force drag the poor beast out 
the slough despond into which had fallen. But during the 
sank deeper and deeper, and length died, frozen fast into the 
odious, treacherous morass which was engulfed. Another camel, 
although perfectly well and sound, absolutely refused move, and 
few blades grass growing, the hope that would stay there and 
rest until Chernoff picked him up. But unfortunately Chernoff this 
place made and consequently never saw the camel. This was 
the only animal ever left behind alive any numerous 
journeys. 

camp No. yielded bit tolerable pasture, stayed there 
two three days rest. Whilst were there the Cossacks chanced 
catch sight bear, and whilst following him came upon 
Tibetan encampment three men, with horses and yaks. Cos- 
sacks hurried back bring the news me; and once sent them 
again, with the lama act interpreter, glean some informa- 
tion about the region were in. when they reached the place 
the Tibetans were gone, and our horses were not good enough 
condition admit our following them. 

learned afterwards that the Tibetan hunters posted off south- 
wards and told the nearest native chiefs that army Russians was 
approaching from the north. Hence our arrival was known long before 
suspected it, and sharp look-out was being kept throughout the 
country north Lhasa and along all the roads which led that mystic 
city. strongly suspected that this encounter with the Tibetan hunters 
would bode good. Accordingly, when found there was very 
good pasture camp No. 44, besides traces recent nomad encamp- 
ments the neighbourhood, decided make that main camp 
base for further expeditions. the same time made haste com- 
plete Mongolian equipment, and after having made quite sure 


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250 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 
the position the camp astronomical determination, July 
started for the south, accompanied the Buriat Cossack Shagdur and 
the Mongolian lama. left Sirkin charge the camp, with instruc- 
tions move some other place soon the pasture was done, 
and when that was finished move again third place, and 
on. But was always leave behind him every encampment 
report what was going do, that might able follow 
the caravan. Mongolian equipment was very simple consisted 
two small cases, tent, provisions for few days, some Chinese 
silver, and few surplus furs, everything being Mongolian manu- 
facture. lived also genuine Mongolian fashion. However, 
also took with few small note-books, aneroid barometer, 
thermometer, compass, and chronometer, not obliged 
discontinue observations. whom behind looked upon 
the undertaking piece madness, and thought that surely had 
taken leave senses. For the first two days Ordek accompanied 
us, keep watch upon our animals that for any rate 
two nights might sleep peace. The animals had with were 
five mules and four horses. the end our second day’s ride, 
when had left the camp miles behind us, had head shaved 
bare billiard ball, and moustache cut off altogether. looked 
horrible; but then was something like genuine Mongol, especially 
after the lama had for several days smeared face with grease, till 
was partly black and partly brown. were all good spirits. 
Our tent was pitched neck land between two lakes, one salt, the 
other fresh, and the horses and mules, guarded Ordek, were peace- 
fully grazing short distance away. About midnight Ordek came 
rushing into the tent, and woke with the cry 
Robbers!” snatched our rifles and revolvers and hurried out, 
but the dim moonlight was barely suflicient show some mounted 
men hurrying away over the nearest hills, taking with them two 
our horses. All thought pursuit was, course, out the question, 
because, for aught knew, our camp might even then surrounded 
whole band thieves. therefore sat round the fire and 
talked till daylight, when struck camp and travelled farther 
towards the south-east. Poor Ordek had trudge the miles back 
camp foot. men there looked upon lost for good and all. 
But left instructions with the Cossacks that, did not return within 
three months, they were make for Kashgar and report. the third 
day made long march, and the evening perceived some Tibetan 
horsemen keeping watch upon our movements from 
this time onward made practice divide the night into three 
watches three hours each, that each had his three hours 
sentry-go. Fortunately, had two first-rate helpers Yollbars 
and Malenki, the two biggest and fiercest dogs caravan possessed. 


THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 251 
And always pitched our tent that the animals were tethered 
the side that was against the wind, for was from that quarter that 
night visitors might expected, and the dogs were tied one each 
end the camp-line. Never shall forget those interminably long 
night-watches, when tramped backwards and forwards between 
Yollbars and Malenki listening every the least suspicious sound. 
had not the slightest difficulty keeping awake; any moment 
might suddenly fallen upon. Many and many time the dogs set 
fearful barking. Thereupon would hear noise certain direc- 
tion, and would creep towards it, revolver hand. Then the dogs 
would stop barking, and everything become still again. 

the third night heard horses’ hoofs, and the dogs became very 
uneasy. But the vicinity revealed nothing sus- 
picious. rained cats and dogs, and when watch was over was 
wet the skin. And even crept into the tent could hear 
the sweet little rivulets rain trickling amongst our few precious 
belongings. 

Our fourth day’s march led through uninhabited and very hilly 
country. rained torrents both day and night without once 
ceasing. confess never saw such rain. Our tent stood 
little lake. for there was moon, which was able 
shed gentle diffused light through the dense masses cloud that 
hung the sky, and its means were enabled keep sight, 
though was not altogether easy so, the line animals tethered 
front the tent. During turn watching two the mules 
contrived get loose, and had end business running hill 
and down dale catch them again. 

the fifth day our march very long ride, passing 
the way caravan Mongolian pilgrims. Late night came ‘to 
black tent, the owner which, Sampo Singhi, shepherd, gave 
friendly reception, and sold sheep, which suffocated hold- 
ing his fingers its nostrils. also gave cream and sour milk, 
that for the next few days fared quite sumptuously. the course 
the following day’s march forded the river Satyu-sangpo, 
that time tremendously swollen the rains. was the worst fording 
river have ever experienced. The water its deepest part came 
the pommel the saddle, and little more than our horse’s head 
and neck was visible above the raging flood. The mule which carried 
the two cases was swept away the current, and floated good dis- 
tance down-stream, upheld the cases, which acted 
bladders. horse slipped into deep water, and gave thorough 
drenching before got bis feet again. Our encampment the 
opposite bank was tragi-comical description. Not dry 
wood was had, the dried dung, refused burn, and was 
impossible move foot without splashing into pool water. 


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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 


The next day, the seventh our journey, crossed wide, open 
expanse, bounded the far distance range low mountains, and 
overtook caravan three hundred yaks, led thirty Tibetans, and 
laden with Chinese tea for Tashi-lunpo the Bramahputra (Sangpo). 

The eighth day carried over couple very high passes, beyond 
the second which entered region fairly well peopled with 
their black tents dotted the clefts and slopes all the moun- 
tains the vicinity. The next evening pitched our tent sort 
corrie beside brook, and had the south the mountains 
which overhang Tengri-nor the north. had now travelled 
distance 180 miles from our main camp. Thus far were destined 
go, but further. For just before got quite dark were 
surrounded Tibetans, who announced that were their prisoners, 
and that one step further would cost our lives. Our lama was 
panic terror, and believed should instantly 
accordingly halted, and awaited passively the progress events. 
Thirty-seven sentinels were posted round our tent. saw the 
Tibetans’ fires through the mist every direction, but more especially 
the road towards Lhasa. next day, too, kept tolerably 
quiet upon perceiving band fifty-three mounted men, armed 
with long black muskets, swords, pikes, and lances, spring like 
mushrooms out the ground, and gallop extended order towards 
our tent. Uttering the wildest yells, war-whoops, they 
charged straight down upon us, but, swinging off both sides, drove 
past, then wheeled round, and came back again like hurricane, 
flourishing their pikes over their heads. After that they pitched their 
tents close ours, and began shoot. This they did, would seem, 
inspire with respect. Our impression was, that, they intended 
take our lives polite manner, was scarcely necessary levy 
many people it. 

After while this later band arranged themselves little troops, 
and rode off the direction from which had come. They were all 
dressed black and red cloaks; the officers wore big white hats, while 
the remainder had red bands round their heads. rule, however, 
the bareheaded, and never have their hair either combed 
cut. 

Meanwhile were treated with the greatest friendliness the 
first-comers. old lama assured that had nothing whatever 
fear; the Dalai Lama had given orders that should treated 
with the greatest consideration, and that all needed the way 
provisions should provided free cost. Accordingly they brought 
milk, butter, and lard their bowls, and presented with more 
mutton and firewood than knew what with, nor would they 
any kind payment whatsoever return. the course 
few days, said the bombo,” governor, the province Nakchu 


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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 253 


would arrive, and then should know our fate. due time the 
said high official put his appearance, and soon saw large village 
white and blue tents spring alongside the road Lhasa. Through 
his interpreter, who spoke Mongolian, the governor 
grand banquet his tent, but answered that, see me, 
was liberty pay visit. Accordingly, the course the 
afternoon, perceived crowd horsemen gallop out from amongst 
the tents and towards us. consisted 
governor Nakchu, and Nanso Lama, accompanied several other 
dignitaries, besides officers and soldiers armed for 
seven them all, each man mounted and dressed handsome cere- 
monial robes. question whether they ever clearly understood who 
was; but, the pomp and ceremony they assumed, was evident 
they imagined somebody out the common was disguised beneath 
tattered Mongolian garb. Kamba-Bombo rode first, surrounded his 
staff. wore costume yellow silk, had red head-dress and 
Mongol boots green velvet, and was mounted big grey mule, 
with costly saddle, and had his saddle-cloth embroidered with silver 
and turquoises. dismounted, and, followed throng his 
officers, greeted politely, and, stepping into our wretched tent, took 
his seat bag maize. 

All these men carried swords, suspended from richly chased 
ornamented with corals and rubies. They wore, further, gavos 
(or talisman cases) round their necks, and were adorned with rings, 
bracelets, and other finery, and had their hats trimmed with feathers. 


honest lama was completely overcome all this magnificence, 


and kept his eyes the whole time fixed the ground. 
Meanwhile Kamba-Bombo was the very best humour, now that 
had completely his power, and declared categorically that, 


matter who were, must retrace our steps did not wish to. 


have our heads cut off, the same time drawing his hand significantly 
across his throat. found was perfectly useless argue with 
had imperative orders from the Dalai Lama. Thereupon pre- 
sented with couple horses, flock sheep, and some provisions 
—gifts priceless value, which, however, was totally unable 
return—and appointed escort three and twenty men 
accompany far the river our way back. 
With these men were soon the most friendly footing, that 
when they left felt quite melancholy. 

last, August 20, reached our main camp, thankful that 
were still safe and whole life and limb. For, although had not 
had the good fortune reach the Holy City,” comforted ourselves 
with the thought that had done our utmost get there, even 
the extent risking our lives that object. 

With the full strength caravan once more behind me, 


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254 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 
proceeded southwards different route, being firmly resolved not 
turn the west until should compelled absolutely 
insurmountable obstacles. But did not get very far before once 
more had the Tibetans upon us. They sprang every side, their 
numbers increased, and they rode close-ordered troops both flanks 
our caravan; then they disappeared, and anon reappeared, racing 
past full gallop. 

With these bands lived upon sort war-footing, and every 
night posted strong guards outposts round our camp. were but 
scantily supplied with ammunition; but luckily shots were not ex- 
changed. When showed signs continuing our journey, the 
Tibetans sent deputation me, begging me, touching terms, not 
proceed further. When they found their request was unheeded, 
they hurriedly despatched couriers Lhasa. Meanwhile proceeded 
our way. 

One Mussulmans fell sick while were the shore the 
camel, and that way took him with when marched again. But 
one afternoon, few days later, when stopped for the day, found 
him dead his living bier. the following morning buried him 
according Mohammedan ritual, our molla reading prayers over his 
grave out the Koran. The Tibetans watched our proceedings from 
distance. They thought were making deal unnecessary 
fuss over dead man, and advised fling the corpse out the 
wolves. Subsequently witnessed how they did throw out dead 
body devoured vultures and ravens. 

Later that same day there was another rift the lute. Hladyeh 
and Yunduk Tsering, two the Dalai Lama’s ministers 
members his devashung (or council) Lhasa, came direct from 
the Holy City, bringing with them 500 mounted men, and against such 
force had inclination declare war. These officials read 
proclamation from the Dalai Lama, which, amongst other things, con- 
tained the following passage: Let letters sent with all speed 
Nameu and Naktsang, that Russian can have permission travel 
any the roads Nakchu and inwards far kingdom extends. 
Let letters sent all the chieftains. Watch the frontiers Nak- 
tsang. absolutely essential guard strictly every part the 
country. entirely unnecessary that any European shall enter into 
the kingdom the holy books and spy out the land. your provinces 
they have nothing whatsoever do. they say they have, then 
know they must not travel Lhasa. And they travel, then shall 
you lose your head. See that they turn back the way they 
came.” 

Autumn was now approaching, and had long way 
reach Ladak. Nevertheless, stayed where was until had mapped 


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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 255 


Naktsang-tso and Selling-tso. Thus for ten days longer were 
honoured with the company our escort, though lived 
the best terms with its leaders. visited one another every 
day, and they arranged play horseback), 
honour, gave horses and sheep, and throughout treated with 
the utmost politeness. Our united camps presented imposing 
spectacle, with their sheets tents, their innumerable fires, their 
troops horses and horsemen. While caravan, escorted the 
Tibetans, marched from the eastern shore the lake Chargut-tso, 
round the northern shore, and Kutchuk the boatman crossed 
boat take soundings, the arrangement being that the caravan was 
look out for the western extremity the lake. But more dis- 
agreeable voyage has never been lot participate in. When 
the caravan disappeared behind the mountains which shut the 
lake the north, and were far out the water, were overtaken 
violent westerly storm, and was only dint the very greatest 
exertions that managed reach tiny rocky islet; and there 
were kept prisoners for forty-eight hours. last the tempest subsided, 
and continued our voyage night, making soundings 
moonlight, with the aid lantern. Next morning the storm broke 
out afresh, and again took refuge similar rocky islet. the 
afternoon the same day once more started, but only just managed 
reach the western shore, through having battle for our very lives 
with third tempest. only just escaped being wrecked; and, 
utterly exhausted our exertions, slept that night the desolate 
lake-side, and, after going for one day more, were seen the men 
whom the leaders own caravan sent out search us. 
return camp was greeted the Tibetans with shouts joy. 
absence they had manifested the utmost uneasiness, and 
kept incessantly asking the where had gone to. The latter 
length told them had rowed the southern side the lake, 
had there procured horses, and ridden Lhasa. Instantly they sent 
out patrols fifteen twenty men ride round the lake,and even 
farther the south. the mean time and Kutchuk were 
quietly smoking our pipes the tiny islet the middle the lake. 

now they were convinced had not escaped them, their delight 
knew bounds. They met horseback and conducted 
triumph their tents, where, under the protection their idols 
Buddba, and the light their oil lamps, was entertained the 
most sumptuous manner. 

this juncture Hladyeh Tsering and Yunduk Tsering, and great 
part their mounted force, took their leave us. Nevertheless there 
was still considerable escort left, and these men remained with all 
the way the frontier Ladak, although their numbers gradually 
dwindled, until the middle December there were only twelve men 


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256 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 
left. But that time they were fully satisfied that seriously meant 
leave their country. Time, however, will not allow giving 
further particulars about this wearisome journey three months’ 
duration, right through Tibet from east west. was time 
severe trial for both man and beast. strong west wind lay right 
our teeth the whole the time, and chilled the marrow with its 
icy blasts. The pasture was miserable the extreme, and every day 
lost camels horses, both; but, fortunately, the Dalai Lama 
had given orders that should kept supplied with many yaks 
needed. travelled between lofty mountain ranges, lakes 
grew less and less frequent, and the cold was intense. also lost yet 
another men, making the fourth die during this surpassingly 
trying journey. 

the middle November there was scarce one-third left the 
imposing caravan with which started from the other side the Arka- 
tagh. The country travelled through was sparsely inhabited 
nomad tribes but were everywhere received with friendliness and 
politeness, notwithstanding that almost the whole Tibet was 
arms because attempt reach the Holy City. fear must have 
caused them fearful amount trouble. 

November the thermometer registered degrees frost 
the Fahrenheit scale. After crossing uninhabited and almost water- 
less region, reached, the end the month, the river 
and then followed down far the temple-village Noh, situated 
beautiful valley, thickly clothed with bushes and other vegetation, 
that the evenings had magnificent fires sit round. One day 
about this time lost four out our five surviving horses, and 
another three camels. 

After that travelled for six days along the shores Tsongombo, 
one the most remarkable lakes have ever seen. resembles 
Norwegian fjord, and generally only mile two wide, though 
occasionally its width diminishes less than quarter mile, 
and one two places actually not more than yards 
wide. enclosed framework steep and lofty mountains, 
and presents some magnificent scenery. was covered with sheet 
had sound from the frozen surface, over which was 
drawn improvised sledge, made out one the halves 
collapsible boat. Our route took along the northern shore. one 
place the cliffs plunged down into the water precipitously that 
looked for time should unable proceed further. The 
pass which led over the mountain was impracticable for hoofed animals, 
and the lake was this spot quite open water. But the extreme cold 
was ally our side. had but wait two three days for the 
ice thicken, and then drew the baggage past the place danger 
improvised sledge. 


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TSO-NGOMBO WESTERN TIBET. 


TSANGARSHAR RIVER WESTERN TIBET. 


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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902—DISCUSSION. 257 


After that skirted along the northern shore Panggong-tso. 
lake formerly belonged the basin the Indus, but now cut 
off and divided from low pass, which acts threshold. Con- 
sequently its water the present saline, and the lake 
free from ice. Its fresh-water molluscs are the high-road ex- 
tinction. Its former beach-lines are, however, wonderfully well defined. 

the frontier Ladak found large relief caravan, sent 
from Leh meet us, and here the last our Tibetan escort turned 
back home, after having performed their mission more than satis- 
factory way. Then, with two the Cossacks bear company, 
pushed Leh forced marches over the passes Dugub 
and Jimreh. The temple Jimreh stands shelf, high cliff, 
overlooking the valley the Indus. Here the lamas had secrets 
preserve, but showed everything, and even took into the 
very holiest nooks their shrines. 

spent Christmas with the hospitable missionaries 
invitation from Lord Curzon, Viceroy India, whose acquaintance 
made several years ago. ‘This meant journey over 260 miles 
horseback Srinagar Kashmir, and another 200 rail Rawal 
was hard ride, being the depth winter, ard led over 
the pass Zoji-la, which always dangerous, and that season 
the year generally only companion was the 
Cossack Shagdur. crossed the pass foot, and all went well. 
The danger lies the fact that the road leads through sort gorge, 
which apt partly choked with falling avalanches. The tramp 
through the pass took four days, and had hundred coolies 
carry baggage. really great wonder came out alive, 
considering how many the native Ladakis lose their lives this 
pass every Fortunately managed get over before was 
definitively closed the snow. When returned from India the gorge 
contained far greater quantity snow. Then from Leh journeyed 
over the nasty pass Kara-korum, some 19,200 feet above sea-level, 
where Dalgleish was murdered some years ago, and then struck down 
Yarkand and Kashgar. there, dissolved what remained 
caravan, and its members, Christian, Buddhist, and Mussulman, 
scattered the four winds, each his home various parts Europe 
and Asia. 


Before the paper the have amongst this evening our old 
friend and colleague, Dr. Sven now five years since was with us, 
and during that time has done amount work traveller which 
has equalled himself—we cannot say more than that—in his former expedition, for 
which received the Royal medal our Society. But consider that has 
done much more than that. has shown himself scientific geographer 
the very highest merit—as linguist, observer, and historian. Our Council this 


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258 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902—DISCUSSION. 


afternoon has considered the very great merits Dr. Sven Hedin, and has decided 
award him once our Victoria medal instituted for the highest record 
geographical research. glad able announce this Dr. Sven Hedin 


and the meeting. will say more now, but will call upon Dr, Sven Hedin 
address the meeting. 


Dr. Svex have begin expressing deep and sincere thanks 
for the very kind words which Sir Clements Markham has addressed me, 
for the great honour receiving the Victoria medal, which very 
proud, and which will try worthy the future. think great 
honour, also, invited the Royal Geographical Society address you once 
more; and very glad hear Sir Clements Markham call old friend. 
feel old friend here not foreigner, but old colleague the 
Geographical Society. have been Central Asia for several years—it long 
time. have not had much practice with your beautiful and charming language. 
not able, during the description journey, find the right words 
the right places, perhaps somebody will help that you may know what 
mean. certainly not possible give detailed description journey which 
has taken three years and three days hour half; and shall not 
able give the contents the paper which published one the next 
numbers the may tell you that writing book about the 
journey, and this book will published next year. The scientific results will 
published three four years 

Dr, Sven Hedin then proceeded give his paper, illustrated 
over hundred lantern-slides. 

After the lecture, the called upon Prince Kropotkin speak. 

gives great pleasure comply with Sir Clements 
Markham’s request speak the description the journey which was made 
Dr. Hedin Central Asia. only say that delighted add voice 
the many voices praise which Dr. Sven Hedin must have heard all over 
Russia (where lectured Russian before very large audience) 


Germany; his own mother country; and last England. This journey 


covered certainly ground that had been explored very great extent 


French, and English travellers, and the journey which undertook for reaching 
could not continue till its end. Like all other explorers, was com- 
pelled, when was almost, say, sight Lhasa, return; whereupon 
took the route Ladakh, which had been followed once Littledale. But the 
interest his journey has not been lessened the fact that did not reach 
Lhasa. was but very few days’ journey from that capital Tibet, and 
had crossed, during his attempts penetrate far this capital, the most 
interesting parts Northern Tibet. crossed the great border ridge, Altyn- 
tagh, and also those immense chains mountains where find, remarks, 
almost the highest mountains the world, least high the Himalayas. 
Very probably Sven Hedin will change the direction these mountains, 
are shown this large map (of the German General Staff) running west and east, 
and his surveys will surely very much alter the whole aspect the country 
represented this map. They will surely show that the mountains are 
running directions from the north-west the south-east, and when his 
determinations altitudes are calculated, shall see what tremendous plateaus 
had cross between the border range and the spot where was turned back. 
his levelling the Lob-nor desert, and the discoveries which 
has made the country Lob-nor, they will certainly throw new light 
the changes which have been going the basin this great 


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THREE EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902—DISCUSSION. 259 


Asian lake. With regard Lob-nor, will permit myself remark that 
not think that the lake Kara Koshun—that is, the Lob-nor Prjevalsky—can 
considered anything else but the present remainder from the great lake Lob- 
nor. But what appears almost quite certain, after Sven Hedin’s surveys, 
levellings, and discoveries, that there was first time when Lake Lob-nor 
covered the whole the triangular space which limited the west the 
southward course the the south-east the Lake Kara and 
the north-east the escarpment the Kuruk-tagh, which runs north-west 
south-east direction, The place the Sixty Springs, Altimish-bulak, which 
had been visited previously the Russian explorers, and lies, according their 
determinations, altitude 3600 feet, stands the border the escarpment, 
and the triangular space the escarpment, the river, and the plains 
which spread the foot the Altyn-tagh, must have been occupied some time 
large basin, upon the shores which stcod that spot the Lau-lan region, 
which Dr. Hedin has found such interesting manuscripts. on, the lake 
occupied the eastern part only that triangular basin; and now the Lake Kara 
the Lob-nor represents the southern trough that 
depression, which continues still occupied what has survived the Lob- 
nor. any rate, when the full reports and the levellings Dr. Hedin are 
published, and the whole region better explored, will certainly appear that 
within this triangular depression Lob Nor desert” Stieler’s Atlas map) the 
lake was changing its position proportion decreased, and may change 
several times more before the general desiccation Central Asia, which going 
great speed, will finally move the Tarim lake further south-westwards 
meet the Cherchen, and finally reduce what will remain the Lob-nor the 
little lake Kara buran, which see the junction the Yarkand-daria with the 
The journeys which Sven Hedin has made are certainly event 
the exploration Central Asia; and must only congratulate him, and express 
him our warmest thanks, and the thanks all the geographers the world, for 
the remarkable journeys which has made, for the accuracy the description 
which has given, and for the mass information which can expect from the 
publication the full scientific report this journey, and which will even surpass 
what have found the reports his former journey published few years ago. 

The There are several other authorities present who might have 
addressed the meeting, but too late, afraid, continue the discussion 
therefore only remains for acknowledge Dr. Sven Hedin the great pleasure 
that have derived from his admirable descriptions the country has traversed. 
has, however, given adequate idea the perils and hardships through which 
went collecting this information nor has given any adequate idea the 
diligence and care with which, day day, mapped the country and took regular 
and most valuable observations. did not mention whether suffered from being 
great heights. now gather from him that never felt the sickness often 
experienced the ascent mountains. asked him because have just received 
letter from Mr. Douglas Freshfield, who maintains that this feeling sickness 
great heights differs with individuals the same way sea-sickness differs with 
individuals. some suffer very seriously, others heights 20,000 feet 
not feel the sickness from Dr. Sven Hedin that one those 
who never suffered all great heights. Prince Kropotkin has fully described 
you the great importance the work that has been done Dr. Sven Hedin, 
that only necessary allude his discovery ruins, and the interesting 
manuscripts that were found them; and the care took levelling 
the plain where the great lake once existed, show you the vast 


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260 NOTICES, FROM CHINESE SOURCES, 


and historical importance the work that bas done. And those are only two 
instances out many. sure, therefore, that the meeting will unanimously 
pass vote thanks Dr. Sven Hedin for his most communication. 

Dr. may once more express hearty thanks for the great 
kindness shown this evening the Council the Royal Geographical 
Society, for the great honour bestowed upon the Victoria medal, which 
will great and precious souvenir this evening. And very glad, 
also, have almost heard how silent has been the hall duriag lecture. 
have got the silence and the attention the audience, and that 
most agreeable feeling for lecturer. hope shall able the future 
more details about this journey. was very poor and short description could 
give you now. very glad and happy hear the kind and eloquent words 
addressed to-day Sir Clements Markham, and the extremely kind opinion 
Prince shall very glad from this evening keep words 
memory. sorry that any other Asiatic specialists who are present here did 
not get time speak. probably too but hope another time they will 
get opportunity talking about Central Asia. 

The may mention the that Dr. Sven Hedin 
publishing his atlas, will consist two volumes maps besides text, and 
trust that the wealthier portion our Fellows will subscribe this most valuable 
and important geographical work. 


NOTICES, FROM CHINESE SOURCES, THE ANCIENT 
KINGDOM LAU-LAN, SHEN-SHEN. 


GEORGE MACARTNEY, C.LE. 


his lecture delivered before the Royal Geographical Society 
December last, his Years’ Exploration Central Asia,” 
Dr. Sven Hedin gave graphic description the ruins ancient 
town the border the old Lob-nor. Amongst the finds brought 
home him from this site were many Chinese manuscripts, which 
have been identified the second and third centuries Some 
these manuscripts bear not only the dates, but the name also the 
locality where they were written. This name Lau-lan, and the know- 
ledge this fact one special interest. The actual name Lau-lan 
well known modern Chinese geographers, but hitherto, apparently, 
neither they nor savants Europe have been able fix with anything 
like accuracy the position the country anciently called that name. 
Mr. Wylie, Chinese eminence, 1880 had computed 
this position 39° 40' lat. and 94° long. Now, this would 
show error approximately 250 miles are right under- 
standing that the place where Dr. Hedin found the Chinese manuscripts 
bearing the name Lau-lan was about 40° lat. and 90° long. 
The more accurate localization Lau-lan, now possible, may, 
hoped, lead some useful results the identification other 
neighbouring countries whose ancient names are known, but whose 
positions are still puzzle modern geographers. 


4 


THE ANCIENT KINGDOM LAU-LAN, SHEN-SHEN. 261 


the Tsien Han-shu History the First Hans’) and the records 
Fa-Heen and Hsian-Tsang were consulted, should find many 
places mentioned therein, with their distances given with reference 
Lau-lan. 

Thus, the Tsien (written roughly between 100 and 
50) mentions the following distances: From (capital 
Lau-lan) the Yang barrier (evidently the direction 
1600 li; Chang-an, 6100 li; tothe seat government the Chinese 
governor-general (name not given) north-westerly direction, 1785 
li; Si-an-fu, 1365 li; Keu-sze (Onigour) north-westerly 
direction, 1890 li. 

(fifth century the record his travels, gives the 
following distances: From Shen-shen Lau-lan Tun-huang, about 
marches, 1500 Wu-e (Urgur?), marches foot north- 
westerly direction. 

From Hsian Tsang learn that Lau-lan, which also calls Na- 
po-po, situated 1000 north-east Chémo-té-na, also 
Nimo. 

will seen from the above that the site can serve 
point reference for determining the position several other places. 
Perhaps the indications given above may prove use subse- 
quent surveyors. 

this far from all that can learnt about Lau-lan from Chinese 
records. The Tsien Han-shu tells that China began intercourse 
with this country the reign the Emperor Wu-ti 
whose time the western boundary the empire would seem have 
extended further than the Yang barrier (possibly Tun Huang) and 
the gate (modern Chia Kuan?). The vast country lying beyond 
these places was designated the Chinese geographers the epoch 
under the vague term Si-yu (western region), which they supposed 
divided into thirty-six different are told there 
were two roads from China this region. That Lau-lan, 
skirting the river (lower the north the Southern 
mountains (Altyn Ustun and leading west Sa-ché 
the southern road. That the Palace the Anterior Keu-tse 
(Onigour 1890 from Lau-lan), following the river the 
direction the Northern mountains (Tien Shan) far Su-lch 
(Kashgar) the northern road.” 

The watercourse the Tarim basin described the following 
terms: river (Khotan Daria?) runs northwards till joins 
confluent from the Tsung-ling (Onion range, Sarikol), and then flows 
eastwards into the (lit. Calamiferous lake), which 
also called the Salt marsh. This over 300 from the gate and 
the Yang barrier, and 300 length and breadth. The water 


stationary, neither increasing nor diminishing summer winter. 


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262 NOTICES, FROM CHINESE SOURCES, 


The river then said run underground and issue again Tseih- 
shih, where becomes the Yellow river 

The following précis the account found the Han-shu 
the political relations between China and Lau-lan during the first 
century 

The Emperor Wu-ti, are told, was desirous cultivating inter- 
course with Ta-wan and adjacent countries, and repeatedly sent 
ambassadors there. had pass through Lau-lan, but the people 
Lau-lan, concert with the Ku-tse, harassed the officials the 
high-road, robbed and attacked Wang-Kuei, one the envoys. More- 
over, the Lau-lans made themselves objectionable the Chinese 
acting spies for the Heun-nu and several occasions aided 
these the pillage Chinese travellers. All this was not 
tolerated. Wu-ti, therefore, prepared expedition against the dis- 
affected state. Chao Po-nu was sent with army 10,000 men 
punish the Ku-tse, whilst the envoy Wang Kuei, who had suffered 
several times the hands the Lau-lans, received orders act 
Chao lieutenant. latter, advancing the head 700 
light horse, seized the King Lau-lan, conquered the Ku-tse, and, 
relying the prestige his army, overawed the states dependent 
Wu-sun and Ta-wan. The Lau-lans soon submitted, and sent offerings 
tribute the Emperor Wu-ti. But their submission gave offence 
their allies, the Huns, who lost time attacking them. this, 
way satisfying his two powerful neighbours, the King Lau-lan 
sent one his sons hostage the and another the Emperor 
China. Thus ended the first episode the relations between China 
and the kingdom question. 

3ut more troubles were store for Lau-lan. The Emperor 
for some reason other, had send another punitive expedition against 
Ta-wan and the The found the Chinese army formidable 
that they deemed prudent avoid any direct encounter with it, but 
this did not prevent them from hiding troops Lau-lan, the inhabitants 
which did not cease league with These troops con- 
stantly harassed the army Wu-ti. The Chinese soon got wind 
Lau-lan’s secret coalition with the Huns, and accordingly the general. 
Jen-wan, was sent chastise them. Jen-wan proceeded the city 
gate, which was opened him, and reproached the king for his 
treachery. The king, excuse, replied, small state lies 
between two great kingdoms, must perforce make alliances with 
both, can have peace; but now wish place kingdom 
within the bounds the Chinese empire.” Confiding these words, 
the emperor re-established him the throne, and commissioned him 
keep watch over the movements the Huns. 

will remembered that one the sons the deceased king was 


THE ANCIENT KINGDOM LAU-LAN, 263 
hostage the Chinese court. Now the Lau-lans made petition the 
emperor for the return the hostage prince, order that might 
succeed the vacant throne. prince had not, however, been 
persona grata with the emperor; fact, all the time was China 
had been kept honourable confinement the Silkworm House 
Palace. therefore happened that the petition from Lau-lan was not 
favourably received Wu-ti, but the answer returned was that 
diplomat. tenderly attached,” said Wu-ti, “to attendant 
prince, and loth allow him leave and the emperor 
suggested the petitioners that they should the next son the 
deceased king the royal dignity. 

This the Lau-lans accordingly did. But the new king’s reign was 
short one, and his death the question succession again came 
the front. This time the Huns, who, will remembered, had also 
hostage prince from Lau-lan their court, thought their opportunity 
had come regain that state the influence they had lost. They 
therefore sent the prince back and established him the throne. This 
successful alarmed the Chinese, who endeavoured, bribery and 
intrigue, recover their ascendency. They made direct attempt 
dethrone the Hun’s protégé, but sent envoy him requesting him 
pay visit the Chinese court, where, the envoy said, liberal gifts 
would bestowed him the emperor. But the emperor and the 
envoy little suspected that they had reckon with woman’s cunning. 
The step-mother the king was hand, and she advised him, saying, 
Your royal predecessor sent two sons hostages neither 
them has ever come back, and reasonable that you should go?” 
The king thereupon dismissed the envoy with the words that, having 
newly acceded the throne, the affairs the kingdom were engaging 
his attention, and that could not attend the Chinese court before 
two years.” 

far there had been open hostility between the new king and 
the emperor, although, undoubtedly, relations between them were 
strained. But now the event which was put end Lau-lan 
independent state was imminent. the eastern border 
Lau-lan, where this kingdom was continuous with China, there 
piace called the Peh-lung mound. place was the high-road, 
vid Lau-lan, from China the western regions, and suffered from 
drought and had pasturage. The Lau-lans were frequently called 
upon the Chinese furnish guides, carry water and provisions 
this spot for passing officials. the discharge these duties, the 
inhabitants were often exposed the brutality the Chinese soldiery. 
Friction was thus created; but the situation was made worse the 
ever secretly instigating the Lau-lans against the Chinese. 
Finally, the Lau-lans resolved break off friendly relations with Wu-ti, 
and forthwith murdered some his envoys whilst passing through 


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NOTICES THE ANCIENT KINGDOM LAU-LAN, SHEN-SHEN. 


Lau-lan territory. This act treachery was reported the Chinese 
court the king’s younger brother, Hui who, having made his 
submission the Han monarch, was scheming oust his elder brother 
from the throne. Accordingly, 77, the Chinese general, Fu- 
keae-tsu, was sent Fu-keae-tsu hastily selected 
few followers, and, having spread report that was going 
ncighbouring state mission friendly inquiry, and had presents 
with him for the king, journeyed Fu-keae-tsus 
arrival, the king, who suspected nothing, invited him sumptuous 
feast. Whilst the king was intoxicated, gave signal his 
followers, and the king was stabbed the back. His head was severed 
from the body and suspended over the northern gate the city. Hui 
reward for his treachery, was set king the place 
his brother, and the kingdom was re-established under the new name 
Shen-shen, for which brevet investiture was prepared. 
nothing might wanting the prestige the new ruler, one the 
ladies the imperial court was bestowed him consort, and 
Hui leaving the Chinese capital for his kingdom, was accorded 
send-off marked with every honour. Thus was established. But 
did not feel himself secure his new position. Being Chinese 
protégé, was looked upon with suspicion the people over whom 
nad been called upon rule. Moreover, the late king had left son, 
and Hui Tu-chi lived fear assassination him. Tu-chi 
therefore petitioned the emperor establish military colony Lau-lan, 
the city E-tun, where, said, the land was rich and productive.” 
This was done, and the emperor sent cavalry leader with forty 
subordinates cultivate the fields E-tun and soothe the people.” 
Thus was the rule the great Han monarch extended over the state 
Lau-lan, Shen-shen. 

the epoch when these chronicles were written, which, pre- 
sumably, was about the time the birth Christ, the kingdom 
Shen-shen, are told, contained 1570 families, forming population 
14,100, 2912 trained troops. 

the physical features the country, the Tsien Han-shu says 
(translation Mr. Wylie)— 

“The land sandy and salt, and there are few cultivated fields. 
country relies the neighbouring kingdoms for cereals and agri- 
cultural products, The country produces jade, abundance rushes, 
the tamaria, the vermicifera, and white grass. people 
remove their cattle for pasturage wherever they can find sufficiency 
water and herbage. They have asses, horses, and camels. can 
fabricate military weapons, the same the people 

much, then, for the information contained the Han- 
shu. what Heen says regarding Lau-lan, which passed 
through the fifth century his way from China India 


RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES. 265 


procure the sacred books The translation that 
Dr. Legge— 

After travelling for seventeen days, distance may estimate 
about 1500 (from the pilgrims reached the kingdom 
Shen-shen, country rugged and hilly, with thin and barren soil. The 
clothes the common people are coarse and like those woven our 
land Han, some wearing felt, and others serge cloth hair. 
king professed our law, and there might the kingdom more than 
4000 monks, who are all students the hinayana (small vehicle 
salvation). common people this and other kingdoms this 
region, well the sramans (monks), all practice the rules India, 
only the latter more exactly, and the former more loosely. Here 
the pilgrims stayed for about month, and then proceeded their 
journey, fifteen days’ walking the north-west bringing them the 
country Wu-e. this there were more than 4000 monks, all students 
the hinayana.” 

passed through Lau-lan his return 
from India, two centuries later than Fa-Heen, but his notice this 
country extremely meagre. are merely told that, after leaving 
the walled but deserted town Nimo, travelled 
1000 north-easterly direction, and reached Na-po-po, which 
the same Lau-lan.” 


RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST 
Dr. TEMPEST ANDERSON. 


will the remembrance every one present that May, 1902, 
severe volcanic eruptions took place St. Vincent and Martinique, 
both which islands form part the chain the lesser Antilles 
the West Indies. The Royal Society appointed committee investi- 
gate the eruptions, whom had the honour being nominated along 
with Dr. Flett, Petrologist the Geological Survey, proceed 
the scene the eruptions and report them. our report, read 
before the Royal Society November 20, have already entered 
fully into the description and discussion the phenomena observed 
will better, therefore, this paper content myself with 
résumé the chief points, with special references the geographical 
changes produced. 

The islands the lesser Antilles, from Saba the north 
Grenada the south, form the summits chain mountains about 
two-thirds submerged; for while their highest peaks reach eleva- 


Read the Royal Geographical Society, January 12, 1903. 348. The 
descriptions the plates will found the end the paper. 


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266 RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES. 


tions barely 5000 feet above sea-level, the depth the Caribbean 
sea the west over 10,000 feet. They occupy the summit great 
fold the Earth’s crust, and are almost entirely volcanic, the chief 
exception being Antigua and small portion.of the eastern part 
which, with Barbados, appears form part another fold 
more the east, which not Other volcanoes occur the 
mainland the west the Caribbean sea, one which Guatemala 
has also recently been eruption. Earthquakes had taken place 
the region surrounding the Caribbean sea during some months 
previously, and has been concluded that the readjustments the 
crust which gave rise these have also been connected with 
the eruptions St. Vincent and 

The island St. Vincent oval, the long diameter being nearly 
north and south. about miles long and miles wide. 
mountain chain stretches along the main axis the island, and reaches 
height varying from 2000 4000 feet, the highest point being 
just over 4000. entirely composed volcanic materials, the beds 
dipping away from the central mass all directions towards the sea. 
They consist chiefly tuffs and agglomerates—in fact, fragmentary 
materials resembling those discharged from the Soufriére during the 
recent eruptions. Among them are many ejected blocks enormous 
size, even much feet diameter, showing that some 
the former eruptions must have been explosive like the late one, but 
grander scale. are comparatively few, but not entirely 
absent, and dykes are rare. 

the southern part the island volcanic action has long been ex- 
tinct did not see any remains such having 
apparently been removed Towards the northern part 
the island, however, the great mass the mountain, the 
summit which crater almost circular form, about mile 
diameter. This, which called the old crater, appears have been 
the chief, not the only, site the recent eruption. the north- 
east the old crater, and only separated from narrow ridge, 
the so-called new crater, which was active 1812. only about 
one-third mile diameter, and doubtful whether took any 
part the last eruption. the north these craters, and partly 
encircling them, old crater-ring, which bears the same relation 
them Somma does Vesuvius. The name Morne Garu was 
formerly applied indiscriminately all this mountain range, but now 
has become restricted peak some distance the south the main 
crater, while the name appears always given the 
active cone. 

the south the main craters, and between them and Morne 
Garu, great depression system valleys extends right across the 
island. side this occupied the Dry river and 


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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES. 267 


its tributaries, which drain into the sea the windward coast north 
George Town. The western, which rather more extensive, much 
into deep valleys and ravines, often with almost precipitous 
sides, which flow the rivers and torrents, which are often dry, and 
the names Wallibu, Wallibu Dry river, Rozeau, Morne Ronde, 
and Larikai. The rocks which this part the mountain com- 
posed are almost entirely tuffs and agglomerates formed fragmentary 
material, similar that ejected from the volcanoes during the recent 
eruption. saw few beds lava, but they were chiefly exposed 
the deeper parts ravines, and were obviously much older date 
than the more superficial portions. This great transverse valley, and 
especially its western portion, the valley the Wallibu, received the 
greater part the products the eruption, amongst which saw 
lava, and not believe any was erupted. considerable number 
ejected blocks were noticed, but the great bulk the material consisted 
fine sand and fact, lava blown pieces the sudden ex- 
pansion gases. The trade-wind blows steadily from the 
east north-east, and certain amount the finer particles would 
the wind and deposited the Wallibu valley. considerable 
amount was also driven directly upwards violently through 
the whole thickness the trade-wind and get caught upper 
current the reverse direction, which was carried the east 
far Barbados and the surrounding sea. certain quantity fell 
the north slopes the volcano beyond the Somma ridge and along the 
east coast far beyond George Town, but the greatest deposit 
which saw, and comparison with which all the others were trivial, 
was the Rabaka and Wallibu valleys. 

The tropical rains cut deeply into the soft strata which form 
the cone the Soufriére and the slopes its foot, and have produced 
series branching valleys with steep almost precipitous sides, and 
separated the narrowest fact, often mere knife-edges. 
The whole, before the eruption, was clothed with the most luxuriant 
tropical Into this series valleys was discharged from 
the Soufriére black cloud, heavily laden with incandescent dust 
that might most fitly described incandescent avalanche. 
The mechanism its production discussed below, but its immediate 
geographical effect was fill the Rabaka and Wallibu valleys and some 
their tributaries depth some places great 200 feet. The 
motion the mass was sufficient prevent any large amount hot 
sand being deposited the ridges, while the hollows received the 
greater the whole was smoothed over the blast, and lay 
rolling masses like drifted snow. Thus the course single 


The nature these will form the subject special report the Royal Society 
colleagne, Dr, Flett. 


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268 RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES. 


day, probably much less, the whole the vegetation this part 
the mountain was utterly devastated, and the valleys were filled 
with deep new deposit incandescent sand. This was the first and 
most obvious geographical alteration. 

When arrived the scene month later, secondary changes 
had taken place very marked extent. The wet season had set 
earnest, and much inches rain had been one period 
twenty-four hours. Denudation was taking place prodigious 
scale. surface was everywhere scored with rain-furrows, which 
joined together sort feather-pattern into larger streams, which 
had cut deep channels into the soft and these again united 
form rivers, which some cases had re-excavated the old channels, 
but others had cut new and quite independent ones. The amount 
denudation that had been accomplished this short space time 
seemed incredible one accustomed the leisurely rate change 
temperate climates. The Wallibu had excavated new bed the hot 
ash nearly feet deep, and had left places many five six 
terraces mark successive stages its excavation, and the Rabaka 
the east side cut corresponding gorge. Nor were the changes 
yet complete; were seeing them still progress, and 
obtaining photographs many the most striking phenomena. When 
the weather was fine little change was seen, though the ash was 
still smoking, and hot enough places even the surface burn 
the bare feet our porters. Most the river-beds were then also dry, 
but brisk shower rain changed all this. The water came down the 
rivers torrents and undermined the steep banks. This started land- 
slides hot ash, which fell into the river, and explosions steam 
enormous scale took place. Showers hot mud were thrown 
height perhaps 150 feet like great geysirs, and great clouds 
steam, laden with brown dust, rose height many hundred feet, 
and were carried away sea the trade-winds. Nor was this all: 
the fallen ashes often dammed the streams, and when the water last 
overcame the obstruction descended longer water, but 
gush boiling-hot mud, which made the river-bed temporarily im- 
passable, and built alluvial fans the mouth the river. One 
day when ascended the Soufriére, crossed dry river-beds without 
difficulty the morning when the weather was fine, but returning 
the afternoon, heavy rains having fallen the mean time, 
river was full boiling mud, and were only able cross the 
aid bridge which our men constructed trees killed the 
eruption, and this saw carried away great gush boiling 
mud soon after had got over. 

The spots from which these explosions had taken place, when 
sufficiently cooled approached safely, were also interesting. They 
formed bowls funnels from perhaps feet feet diameter, 


PLATE 


THE 


VALLEY. 


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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIEs. 269 


however, were seldom perfect, one side had generally been 
the stream cut its way deeper, and left the remains 
was low cone débris, consisting the stones and larger fragments 
which had been thrown and fallen down around it, while the lighter 
sand was carried away the wind. These new valleys, with their 
details—the terraces and steam-bowls and the associated fans and 
deltas—constitute another geographical 

The shore deposits deserve separate mention. the windward 
coast especially, the amount sand brought down the streams 
had been great that for miles new beach had been formed 
the mud carried along the coast the waves, where formerly 
the sea reached the foot the cliffs; but this will doubt eventually 
washed away again. 

looked carefully for signs general upheaval depression 
land, but without finding any. The rise and fall the tide amounts 
only about feet, and the sea has made very definite marks along 
the face the cliffs where they happen composed lava hard 
tuff. were satisfied that alteration level more than few 
inches could have taken place, and our boatmen, who knew the place 
well, were the same opinion. There was, however, one very re- 
markable instance local subsidence which deserves notice. 

the mouth the Wallibu valley, the leeward side, extending 
from Richmond village the south Mcrne Ronde the north, 
distance above mile, there was formerly low foreshore, along 
which ran the main road. was described having been 
covered with palm trees and luxuriant tropical growth, and studded 
with numerous picturesque villages, which nestled beautiful little 
bays. Similar places still exist just the devastated area 
Chateau Belair, Rose Bank, Barruali, and Layu.* Behind the foreshore 
the land rose steep bluffs composed fragmentary volcanic deposits 
like the rest the Wallibu district. the day the great 
eruption the whole this foreshore subsided into deep water, and 
slopes here are very steep, probable that the earth- 
quakes connected with the eruption set landslides, with the above 
results. possible that there may have previously been fault 
along the line the foot the bluff, which determined the actual slip, 
and this might account for hot water rising here, which 
vave the name Hot-waters one spot; but, whatever the exact 
cause, this subsidence geographical change worth mention. 

The next geographicgl change noted was that the crater has been 
somewhat enlarged, especially its southern lip, but not any con- 
spicuous extent; has lost its clothing vegetation, but this will 


The last beyond the map. 


No. 


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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES. 


soon renewed, and its contained lake has been discharged, but 
already beginning fill again. Any one who knew before and 
visited now would notice considerable change, but, deferred 
his visit for few years, would probably see marked difference. 

Another curious little secondary result deserves notice. Water will 
hold more mud suspension when flowing down steep slope. 
The water the steeper upper parts the valleys was charged with 
mud the utmost, but where descended more gentle slopes, and 
consequently moved more slowly, could not carry much, and 
deposited part, especially where moved slowly the side the 
stream. saw two places where dams had thus been formed across 
the mouths small lateral valleys, and small lakes large ponds had 
been produced. the dams were only soft mud, these may only 
temporary but have seen permanent lake several acres formed 
this way Iceland, bank shingle brought down rapid 
glacial river. Dr. Flett thinks, and agree that the explanation 
feasible, that these lateral dams are the remains the avalanche which 
filled the valley during the eruption, and that the centre part only has 
since been washed away. 

watercourse formerly existed which supplied all the plantations 
the Carib country the east windward slope the mountain with 
water taken from the Rabaka river high up. The river has now 
changed its course, and water enters the conduit, which, moreover, 
places blocked with ashes. however, can doubtless 
remedied, but, far goes, geographical change. The planta- 
tion buildings were not sufficient size for their destruction 
geographical importance, and the black population will, according all 
previous experience, return after the cessation the eruptions. 

the whole, the permanent geographical changes St. Vincent 
are comparatively small. remains discuss the mechanism the 
eruption but this will better considered along with that Mont 
Pelée. 

Turning now the consideration Martinique, may remark 
that our instructions were proceed first St. Vincent and devote 
our chief attention that island. This did, but later went 
also Martinique, for the purpose making such examination 
would enable compare the phenomena the two volcanoes. 

There remarkable similarity between the islands St. Vincent 
and Martinique. Both are roughly oval form, with the long axis 
almost north and south. The north-west portion each occupied 
volcano, the and Mont Pelée, more strictly called Montagne 
Pelée, which have many points common. Both volcanoes show 
single practically single vent, remarkable absence parasitic 
cones, and scarcity dykes. both transverse valley exists 
the south the volcanoes, and the main discharge ejecta during 


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DRY RIVER FLOWING MUD. 


PLATE 


RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES. 271 


the recent eruptions, which have often been nearly synchronous, has 
been into this depression, and especially into its westerly portion. 
both islands the recent eruptions have been characterized paroxys- 
mal discharges incandescent ashes, with comparatively few larger 
fragments and complete absence lava. 

There are, however, few points difference. The eruptions 
St. Vincent have been altogether much larger scale than 
those Martinique. The area devastated was considerably larger, the 
amount ashes ejected probably ten times great, and the loss 
life was not large, this accounted for the absence populous 
city the foot the mountain. such city had existed the 
mouth the Wallibu river St. Vincent the position corresponding 
with that St. Pierre, there can that would have been 
completely destroyed that unfortunate city. While both volcances 
show practically single vent, this much more marked the case 
St. Vincent, where excepting the new crater, which really 
part the old main one, there not single parasitic cone. 
saw fumaroles, hot springs, nor any trace radial cracks and 
fissures. 

Mont Pelée, true, the main activity confined restricted 
area about the summit the mountain, and the top the great 
fissure which extends extended from this down the direction 
the Blanche and there are parasitic cones comparable, for 
instance, those which are numerous Etna; but there are many 
fumaroles, which Prof. Lacroix and his colleagues speak emitting 
gases hot enough melt lead, though not copper wire. telegraph cable 
has been three times broken the same place, and the broken 
ends one occasion, any rate, showed marks fusion the 
insulating are also several hot springs. Judging 
from these and other indications, most probable that radial cracks 
entered deeply through the substance the mountain, and penetrated 
even the submarine portion its cone. 

Flows mud have also played much more conspicuous part 
Mont Pelée than St. Vincent. Quite early the eruption great 
flow this kind came down the Riviére Blanche and overwhelmed the 
Usine Guérin, which stood near its mouth, that now nothing remains 
but the upper part the chimney stack. probable that some 
least these mud-flows may have been due the discharge the 
small crater lake which existed before the eruption, heavy rains, 
the water either case behaving manner comparable what 
saw the Wallibu; but, any rate, they more prominent 
part the descriptions these eruptions than those the 
Soufriére. 


Not only has the amount erupted material been much less, but its 


distribution has been much more local than St. Vincent, and this 


T 2 


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272 RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST 


accounted for the great fissure the top the valley the 
Blanche, which communicated with the main pipe the volcano, and 
out which the eruptions took place. This fissure, which was mentioned 
existing the eruption 1851, pointed almost directly towards St. 
Pierre, and the erupted material flowed out almost like fluid, was 
directed straight down the doomed city. The lowest portion the 
lip the crater the Soufriére was much broader and more even, 
the incandescent avalanche which descended from was spread much 
more widely. 

The latest accounts from Prof. Lacroix indicate that the recent small 
eruptions Mont Pelée have filled the highest parts the fissure 
and formed cone, which covers most the former crater. any 
further eruption, therefore, the avalanche incandescent sand will not 
confined the district the Blanche, but may descend 
any side the mountain. 

now more strictly geographical details, wonderful 
how small have been the changes produced, smaller than even those 
St. Vincent. 

The north end St. Pierre completely buried dust levelled 
with the ground, that nothing remains visible the ruins the 
houses except certain protected situations, and the plateau rising 
the north the town towards the foot the mountain also 
covered. difficult state the exact depth, but certainly 
inconsiderable comparison with the 200 feet the Rabaka, even 
the feet the Wallibu. Further the south, the centre the 
city St. Pierre, the amount ashes was much less; great deal has 
been already washed away, but doubt ever was more than 
feet thick average, and Morne the south end, 
was quite insignificant—only few inches. The destruction St. 
Pierre itself the incandescent avalanche, and the hot blast and 
attendant conflagration, event intense human interest being 
attended the sudden death over 30,000 persons, but from the 
point view the physical geographer can hardly called con- 
siderable, neither can the carrying away few small bridges, nor the 
formation small mud delta the mouth the Riviére Blanche. 

remains now discuss the nature these peculiar eruptions. 
They belong type which have hitherto been imperfectly, all, 
described, and were fortunate enough witness distance, 
least close was safe, one the characteristic eruptions Mont 
Pelée, and thereby confirm the views which had previously formed 
observation the effects those the Soufriére. 

arrival Fort France found that the devastated area 
the north the island was still almost entirely unoccupied. The 
greater part the St. Pierre and the neighbourhood had 
been killed the eruption, and the few survivors were only returning 


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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES. 


slow degrees. was therefore impracticable make our 
operations land near the scene eruption. Fort France was 
far away available, except ruinous expenditure time and 
money going and fro. was therefore determined engage 
sloop, provision it, and live board, moving day any point 
where landing was desirable, and retiring night some safe 
anchorage within reasonable distance. devoted our first day 
examination the ruins St. Pierre, and the evening moved 
about miles south along the coast and spent the night anchor off 
Carbet, just the limit the area devastation, spot command- 
ing full view the mountain. Next morning returned 
Pierre, and moored the sloop one the buoys the north end the 
town. Dr. Flett landed and further examined the ruins, while re- 
mained board and took photographs the magniticent cauliflower 
masses dust and steam which were frequently ejected from the great 
triangular fissure above mentioned. Later the afternoon sailed 
further north along the coast, still taking photographs Mont 
which was clearer that day than ever saw before after, and 
showed great perfection the deeply eroded valleys with which its 
slopes are scored. ‘They much resemble those corresponding position 
the slopes the St. Vincent, and appear formed 
the same way strata similar composition, viz. fragmentary ejecta 
from the volcano which had consolidated form soft tuffs, and had 
been eroded into their present forms ordinary atmo- 
spheric agencies. 

have ventured thus write narrative form leading 
the occurrences that memorable evening. returned and sailed 
slowly south past the base the volcano, witnessing and photographing 
many small explosions and their cauliflower clouds dust, and thus 
twice crossing the track the eruption which took place later. 
anchored before off Carbet, and watched the sun set behind the 
clouds ashes ejected the volcano. When approaching the horizon 
and thus viewed, the sun appeared sickly yellowish-green, and 
pale that could looked with the naked eye without discomfort. 
Later on, after sunset, the gorgeous after-glow appeared, and the thin 
clouds the western sky with most brilliant red, beginning 
perhaps 40° from the horizon, while the part below still remained 
yellowish-green. Later still,as the sun sank further below the horizon, 
the yellowish-green area sank also, and only the reds remained, till 
they too sank out sight, and gave place the light brilliant 
three-days-old moon. had sat deck absorbed watching this 
superb spectacle, and were just guing begin supper, when one us, 
looking towards Pelée, said, That cloud different the others. It’s 
quite black, and I’m sure it’s coming this way.” few moments’ ex- 
amination confirmed this, and, the captain’s attention being called 


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274 RECENT VOLCANIC THE WEST 


all, passengers and crew, heaved the anchor quickly possible, 
and set all sail. The black cloud had meanwhile rolled down the side 
the mountain the sea, and came quickly towards us. 
had not moved moment too soon. The upper slopes the moun- 
tain cleared somewhat, and some big red-hot stones were thrown 
then saw the triangular crack become red, and out poured 
surging mass incandescent material, reminding nothing much 
big snow-avalanche the Alps, but vastly different tempera- 
was perfectly well defined, did not all tend rise like 
the previous cauliflowers, but rapidly down the valley the side 
the mountain which had clearly been the track previous eruptions, 
till certainly less than two minutes reached the sea, and was there 
lost view behind the remains the first black cloud, with which 
appeared coalesce. and the slopes the mountain were 
doubtless deposited the greater part the incandescent ash, while the 
steam and gases, with certain portion still entangled stones and 
ash, came forward our direction black cloud, but with much 
greater rapidity than before. The sailors were now alarmed, nay, 
panic-stricken, got out the oars and pulled for their lives. Meanwhile 
the cloud came nearer and nearer; was well defined, black, and 
opaque, formed surging masses the cauliflower type, each lobe 
rolling forward, but not all with one uniform rotation; bright scintil- 
lations appeared, some the cloud itself, and some like little flashes 
light vertically between the cloud and the sea which rested. 
These were clearly the phenomena described the survivors the 
St. Vincent eruption the sea,” occurring the black cloud 
which overwhelmed the windward side that island. examined 
them carefully, and are quite clear that they were electric discharges. 
The scintillations the body the cloud became less numerous and 
more defined, and gradually took the form vivid flashes forked 
lightning darting from one part the cloud another. The cloud 
rapidly gained us. When had got within perhaps mile 
mile—for difficult estimate distances sea and bad light 
—we could see small material falling out sheets and festoons into 
the sea, while the onward motion seemed chiefly confined the 
upper part, which then came over our heads and spread out advance 
and around us, but left layer clear air our immediate neighbour- 
hood. was ablaze all the time with electric discharges. 

soon got overhead stones began fall deck, some big 
walnut, and were relieved find that they had parted with 
their heat and were quite cold. Then came small ashes and some little 
rain. Eventually gained the harbour Fort France unhurt, and 
the proposed ascent Mont Pelée next day, for which men had already 
been engaged, was abandoned. cloud was also noticed Fort 
France. was described like those the previous eruptions, but 


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PLANTATION 


DEVASTATED 


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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES. 275 


two unbiassed observers, who had seen and that May, declared this 
was the larger the two. 

Our limited time was now coming end, but leaving for 
Dominica two days later were able, from the deck steamer, 
make some examination the slopes the mountain down which 
had seen the incandescent avalanche descend. whole district from 
just beyond St. Pierre near Précheur, distance about miles, 
was covered with deposit light grey ash varying thickness, 
perhaps averaging few inches, but evidently much deeper the 
valleys the Blanche and Riviére Seche, which descend from the 
mountain about miles beyond St. Pierre, and drain the slopes below 
the large fissure out which saw the eruption descend. ‘The water 
these rivers was boiling fell into the sea—in fact, was repro- 
ducing small scale the phenomena boiling mud which are 
described above the cases the Wallibu and Rabaka rivers St. 
Vincent, though how far the mountain these Wallibu effects extend, 
and where they give place true volcanic discharges, difficult 
describe yet; must wait further observations Lacroix and 
his colleagues. 

teturning now the mechanism the hot blast and the source 
the power which propelled it, both colleague and are convinced 
the inadequacy previous explanations, such electricity, vortices, 
explosions passages pointing laterally and downwards, explo- 
sions confined and directed down the weight the air above. Such 
passages into the mountain, which, effective, would require 
caverns closed above, and not mere open ravines, not exist the 
case the Soufriére, and are not aware that they have been ob- 
served Mont Pelée; and the weight the air, this did not 
prevent the explosions the pipe the Soufriére from projecting 
sand and ashes right through the whole thickness the trade-winds 
till they were caught the anti-trade current above and carried 
Barbados. Moreover, the black cloud, saw emerge from Mont 
Pelée, seemed balance itself the top the mountain, start slowly 
descend, and gather speed its course, and the second incandescent 
discharge followed the same rule. believe that the motive power 
for the descent was gravity, the case any ordinary avalanche. 

The accepted mechanism volcanic eruption that molten 
magma rises the volcano chimney. consists fusible silicates 
and other more less refractory minerals, sometimes already partly 
the whole highly charged with water and gases, which 
are kept absorbed the liquid, partly the immense pressure 
which they are subjected. When the mass rises nearer the surface and 
the pressure diminished, the water and gases expand into vapour and 
blow certain portion the more less solidified materials powder, 
or, short this, form pumice stone, which really solidified froth, 


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276 RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES. 


and they are violently discharged from the crater. When the greater 
part the steam and gases has been discharged, the lava, still rising, 
finds vent either over the lip the crater, often through lateral 
fissure, and flows quietly down the side the mountain. 

quite recognized that these phenomena may occur various 
relative proportions. The explosive phase may predominate, which 
case only sand, pumice, and fragmentary material are discharged, with 
perhaps ejected blocks torn from the sides the chimney, and this 
case ordinary ash cinder cone built up. the other hand, the 
magma may contain little vapour, and the lava may discharged 
quietly and spread out widely sheet over the surrounding country. 
Snake river basalts Western North America are this class, 
and though they cover area larger than England and France com- 
bined, eruptive cones craters have been found them, and 
supposed that none ever existed, but that the lava welled out quietly 
through fissures. Such fissures have seen Iceland, studded with 
row quite small craters only. believe that these Pelean 
eruptions intermediate phase occurs. lava which rises the 
chimney charged with steam and gases, which explode usual, but 
some the explosions happen have only just force blow 
the mass atoms and lift the greater part over the lip the 
crater without distributing the whole widely the air. ‘The mixture 
solid particles and incandescent gas behaves like heavy liquid, and 
before these particles have time subside the whole rolls down the 
side the mountain under the influence gravity, and consequently 
gathers speed and momentum goes. heavy solid particles are 
gradually deposited, and the remaining steam and gases, thus relieved 
their burden, are free ascend, was the case with the black cloud 
which rose over our heads July 

had concluded, from our examination the Soufriére, that some- 
thing this sort most occur, but the explanation was obvious when 
saw the eruption Mont Pelée. Dr. Flett remembers saying while 
the eruption continued, avalanche,” and among notes 
made while the Indies are the following: The cloud incandescent 
material, saw welling out the great fissure, reminded 
nothing much snow-avalanche seen the Alps. rolled 
rapidly from the mountain-side well-defined billows, giving the 
impression vast volume separate small particles mixed with 
certain quantity air vapour, and, the case Alpine avalanches, 
entangling more air its progress, and setting blast sufficient 
overturn large objects its course.” 

This effect avalanches compressing the air before them and 
setting powerful blast, the effects which extend beyond the 
area covered the fallen material, has long been recognized. Plate 
shows group large trees overthrown the blast the great 


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PLATE 


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cal 
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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES. 


avalanche from the Altels the Gemmi pass all lay pros- 
trate directions radiating away from the place where the avalanche 
came down 

The only which felt the sufficiency the above 
explanation was the fact that these discharges slopes 
and 12°, which are less than the angle repose for such 
instance, not steep the side ordinary railway embankment 
but thought that the entangled gases and steam might sufficient 
account for the extra mobility the mass. When brought this 
explanation the Royal was accepted satisfactory the 
physicists present. Prof. Sylvanus mentioned con- 
firmatory his having noticed that small particles silica, when heated 
redness, move about the crucible like liquid; and Dr. Edward Divers, 
letter Nature,* not only confirms this statement, but points 
out that the liquid-like behaviour powders red heat most 
marked cases where gases vapours are being given off minute 
quantities the incandescent particles, which are thus kept surrounded 
each thin envelope mobile gas, and this exactly meets the case 
the particles question. 


DESCRIPTION DR. TEMPEST ANDERSON’S PLATES. 
These are all from Dr. Tempest Anderson. 
PLATE 

Tropical Vegetation. Chateau Belair, St. Vincent. 


This view, taken about miles beyond the southern boundary the devastated 
area, shows the luxuriant character the tropical vegetation which formerly covered 
the whole district. hut the usual type negroes, the descendants 
liberated slaves. consists wooden uprights, walls wattles, now generally 
giving place boards, and trash” roof. 


PLATE Il. 
The Wallibu District from the Sea. 


the distance Morne Garu; the middle distance the hot sand deposited 
the eruption. The rolling, rounded character the surface shown, also the furrows 
and gullies already cut the rain. foreshore which formerly existed here has 
sunk into deep water, and the waves are cutting into the bluffs behind, and have ex- 
posed section the new ash resting the old beds fragmentary material. 
new beach process formation. 


PLATE 
the Wallibu Valley. 


the distance are the slopes Morne Garu, with trees killed the 
the foreground hot sand, marking the level which the valley was originally 
filled, and some the successive stages its The hot sand still 
steaming wherever water comes contact with it. 


December 11, 1902, 126. 


4 


RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST 


PLATE IV. 
Steam and Ash Explosions, Wallibu. 


This photograph was taken from above Chateau Belair, distance about miles 
across the bay. the foreground are the two ridges which saved the village during 
the eruption. Beyond them are seen the great clouds steam and ash sand, which 


were only visible after rain. The mountain would visible were not con- 
cealed the clouds. 


PLATE 
Rozeau Dry River flowing with Boiling Mud. 


the background are beds new hot sand only few feet thick, and already 
much washed into furrows the rain, which even cutting into the old banks. 


the foreground, extending just below the bridge, gush hot mud 
268. 


PLATE VI. 
The Mouth the Wallibu from the Sea. 


Morne seen the distance, and the foreground the new fan 
sand brought down the river; the middle distance small steam explosion. 


PLATE VII. 
The Site the Wallibu Subsidence. 


The low cliffs the middle distance consist old tuffs with capping several 
feet fresh sand, the product this eruption. the top are seen the ruins the 
Wallibu factory, and the foot was formerly foreshore, perhaps 200 yards wide, 
which were the high-road and number negro huts standing among luxuriant 
vegetation. ‘The whole subsided the day the eruption. The new beach the 


foreground has been formed since that time (in about month) material washed 
from the cliffs and brought down the rivers. 
distance the left. 


The seen the extreme 


PLATE VIII. 
Beach outside the Devastated Area. 


This introduced for the purpose comparison, show the sort place that 
before the eruption the site the last photograph. 


PLATE 


Ridges the Soufriere. 

This plate shows the ridges tuff the lower slopes the mountain the 
windward side above Lot 14. Those the leeward side are similar. Higher the 
slopes become steeper, the ridges narrower, and the gullies between them deeper. 
‘The whole was formerly covered with luxuriant vegetation, which few charred 
remnants are seen. the distance are the hills above George Town, and front 
them the Rabaka Dry River, with one its branches the foreground the right. 


PLATE 
Lot 14. Devastated Plantation. 
This was the highest plantation the windward side along the old Carib track 


which led the summit the The trees are charred and stripped their 


leaves. The factory unroofed, the machinery wrecked, and the waterwheel damaged. 
Much sand about. 


after th 
still ste 


great 
unabl 


278 
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itse 
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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST 


PLATE 
The Main Street St. Pierre. 
photograph shows the condition St. Pierre July about two months 
after the main eruption. iron beam and masonry columns all that remains 


oue the principal shops. the distance part the north tower the cathedral 
still the main part the building destroyed. 


PLATE 
Mont Pelée Eruption. 
photograph, taken the afternoon July gives idea the 


great black cloud which nearly overtook later the evening, and which was 
unable photograph from absence light. 


PLATE 
Trees overthrown the Blast Avalanche. 


great avalanche descended from the Altels mountain the Gemmi pass, 
Switzerland, September, 1895. the end unusually long hot summer, 
large portion the Altels glacier and snow-field slid down bodily, and carried with 
quantity stones and The avalanche covered area above square 
kilometre, and killed several men and 100 cattle. The Altels beyond the 
right the plate, and the trees which were outside the area covered the avalanche 
itself were overthrown the blast air which accompanied it. They all point 
radially away from the Altels. few the left were protected the hillock, and 
escaped. 


opening the meeting, the made the following remarks: 
meeting probably aware that the Royal Society commissioned two 
gentlemen, Dr. Tempest Anderson and Dr. Flett, proceed the West Indies 
and investigate the causes and effects the recent volcanic eruptions St. 
Vincent and Martinique. They have already reported the Royal Society, but 
Dr. Tempest Anderson has been good prepare paper for us, mainly 
treating the subject from geographical point view, with regard the geo- 
graphical effects the eruptions. will now ask Dr. Tempest Anderson 
address the meeting. 

After the reading the paper, the following discussion took place 

Dr. Dr. Tempest Anderson has asked say few words you 
regarding the map the Caribbean region, and regarding the nature the 
geographical changes which have taken place St. Vincent and Martinique. 
Some you have already seen this map. shows the chain volcanoes the 
Antilles, and those which are present Guatemala, April, 
very powerful earthquake, and since have had volcanic eruptions which have 
devastated considerable part that country. The photographs Dr. 
Anderson has shown will explain the nature the changes which had 
taken place St. Vincent before got there. But you must remember that, since 
left, important eruptions have taken place, and changes are going that 
country almost unexampled rate. Vast quantities material are poured 


out the volcanoes the course few hours, and then with great rapidity the 
tropical rains wash them into the sea. There has been considerable devastation 
since were there, and the whole north end Martinique has, the order the 
French scientific men are now resident 


governor, been recently evacuated. 


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280 RECENT VOLCANIC THE WEST 


Martinique, and they have erected observatory little west Carbet, from 
which the changes the mountain are constantly recorded. have many 
correspondents, including Mr. McDonald, Mr. Powell, Major Hodder, and many 
others, St. Vincent and St. Lucia, and they have sent letters and photo- 
graphs which show the nature the changes that are going on. was 
great eruption St. Vincent October 15, and there was another November. 
Since then the crater has been visited, and was found that the lakes were 
replaced masses sand. The crater has been somewhat enlarged. The water 
gathering the crater has now converted into lake boiling mud. ‘The 
most remarkable change that recently described Prof. Lacroix, 
the Scientific Commission. have had letters from St. Lucia describing 
the gradual growth new volcanic cone, which got higher every day and 
finally overtopped the rim the crater. When were there could see that 
cone, coated apparently with large stones, the fissure which faces the harbour 
St. Pierre, and night the cone could seen red hot. Prof. Lacroix and 
the scientists have been there again within the last few weeks, and they 
find that this new cone, which building itself within the crater, has most 
remarkable seems pillar solid lava. Every now and then 
pieces break off from the surface, and then they roll down into the interior the 
crater floor, and expose the bright red surface the lava column. This shows 
that the volcanic magma within the volcano Martinique highly viscous, and, 
fact, has nearly consolidated. addition the strange black cloud, 
have this curious block lava, which has risen right the centre the 
old crater pit height least 900 feet. 

Prof. sure you will all agree that the Royal Society was 
particularly fortunate the two gentlemen whom obtained its commissioners. 
Dr. Anderson not only, you have seen, most admirable photographer, 
but suppose has made greater number clinical examinations 
than any other man. Again, helped remove one very serious difficulty that 
every scientific society feels—that say, the question expense—and did 
this volunteering most liberally his own charges. Again, was great 
good fortune obtaining the services Dr. lett, because has already made 
reputation among petrologists that any man twice his age might happy have 
won. These eruptions are not only great pathos, but also great scientific 
interest. have heard, from what Dr. Tempest Anderson and Dr. Flett have 
said, that they teach one very great lesson, and that how much more rapidly 
sometimes both accumulation and denudation, and particularly denudation 
loose materials, may carried on. That valuable lesson, because perhaps 
this easy-going country are apt fall into habits thought which are too 
not quite sure whether some our English geologists are 
not sometimes too strictly uniformitarian. Perhaps some you have been the 
Brohl-thal, and, so, you will remember the masses trass partly choking the 
valley. always been puzzled know how any ordinary flood could have 
brought the deposit there. This may have come down the mud came 
down the Rabaka river, and been large extent cleaned away again. 
Besides that, there are points that were only touched upon. hoped that 
should have heard something more from Dr. this evening the peculiar 
character that explosive avalanche. thinks—and appears the best 
minerals the molten stuff, which was already rather saturated with superheated 
water. the process crystallization the water thrown, were, out the 
mineral forms. Now, mass magma crystallizes, there will 


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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES—DISCUSSION. 281 


the remaining part just half much water there was before, that the 
material then had the pressure diminished, the water would begin separate 
gas. little crystals scattered throughout the mass would make every 
one locus, were, uncqual resistance. instead getting stony 
froth you bad the uniform Krakatoa magma, you would get this stuff con- 
stantly exploding. would just shattering left the volcano like 
self-exploding shell. That, believe, Dr. Flett’s explanation, and believe 
the true one. Then pointed out there were other explosions the volcanoes 
around the Caribbean sea. That most fascinating question, but quite 
sure that, this late hour the evening, were listening myself should 
very glad when stopped, therefore shall toierant and say more upon 
the question, for began not know when should end. 

Prof. Jupp: sure that may make the same apology that the preceding 
speaker has done, and that this late hour little need said. cannot 
sit down without calling attenticn, not the important scientific details, which 
would take too much time, but remind you those beautiful illustrations 
that have had put before the art photography. Those who have 
tried study voleanic phenomena the pre-photographic days will remember 
that even the most beautiful illustrations published—even those Sir William 
Hamilton—must always impress possibly being wanting truthfulness. 
great artist, the presence those great convulsions Nature, cannot but 
led welcome the truthful representations which the photographer 
gives us, which are more accurate than those any artist can possibly be. be- 
lieve was during the eruption Vesuvius 1872 that photography was first 
applied record volcanic phenomena. Since that time much has been done. But 
the best all that has been done, thiok may say, without 
opinion being challenged any one,—the best all has been done Dr. 
Tempest Anderson, who has visited almost every accessible district with bis camera. 
How successful has been, how ably has done his work, the pictures 
have all looked upon with much pleasure to-night have fully illustrated. 
work that has done has been important indeed, that cannot 
can ever surpassed until, not Dr. Tempest Anderson his successor 
should bring this room succession pictures taken intervals few 
minutes, and then we, the aid the cinematograph, could sit room like 
the present and have the whole volcanic eruption passed before from beginning 
end. 

Prof. this late hour, the best thing can hardly say 
anything all. are points that one would like talk atout, 
and one begins one does not know where one would end. think there 
thing about which are all agreed from what have seen and heard, 
and that is, during the business hours volcano never call upon it. 

The remains for the meeting pass thanks Dr, 
Tempest Anderson for mest valuable paper beautifully illustrated, and 
Dr. Flett for the additional information very great interest that bas given us. 
propose, therefore, that accord Anderson and Dr. very 
hearty vote thanks. 

Dr. Allow thank you for the kind vote thank: 
you have just passed me. Before started, one remarked me, 
know, Anderson, you are sure killed, but will such very great 
satisfaction you afterwards think that was the cause 


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TWO TRIPS THE NORTH CHENG-TU. 
LOCKHART JACK. 


March, 1900, Dr. Jack, accompanied Morris and myself, 
reached Cheng-tu way Shanghai and Chungking, inquire into 
the mineral resources Sechuan behalf English company. 
From Cheng-tu centre made three trips before were com- 
pelled the Boxer troubles leave the country, and propose give 
short account and route traverse those portions the two northern 
trips that not appear have been previously mapped, though some 
the country has been already visited and doubt described 
missionaries. The first was the north-north-west from Cheng-tu, 
through Pen-hsien the monastery Tung-ling-tse, while the second 
was deviation from the round trip Sungpan, mapped Captain 
Gill 1877. 

presenting the accompanying map cannot lay claim any 
great accuracy, instruments consisted pocket compass, 
watch (picked Cheng-tu), and aneroid, but the absence any 
previous traverse (to the best belief) excuse. The map 
interest showing portion little-known district, and delimit- 
ing approximately the north-western boundary that area intense 
cultivation, the Cheng-tu Plain. 

Cheng-tu, our base, the capital the province, and situated 
the centre the plain which gives its name. first made 
known Europeans through the description that famous Venetian 
Marco Polo, who describes its wealth, and also speaks great river 
good half-mile wide.” The city still great and rich, but the river has 
sadly dwindled, being probably the Min, which has been split for 
irrigation purposes, whenever debouches the plain 
The city surrounded dry and under cultivation), and 
wall about feet high, earth faced with brick, enclosing area 
about square miles, and its population probably from 500,000 
800,000. Its main streets are broad (about feet), well paved with 
very free from the unpleasant odours characteristic most 
Chinese towns. Many them are roofed with mats, and flanked 
shops wherein silks and many articles foreign manufacture, such 
cottons, kerosine, Swiss milk, glass-ware, and other commodities 
Western origin, are exposed for sale. Silk very largely woven the 
city. Litton states that over 3000 looms are employed 
the manufacture crepes, satins, brocades, etc., and the product 
appears very good and cheap. 

Wheel traffic Sechuan non-existent far could learn, 
except this city and the surrounding plain, where wheel-barrows 
and are found; both these are used the 


Pai-she 


chor” 


poo 
| Sed 
} gon 
eve 


TWO TRIPS THE NORTH CHENG-TU, 283 


poorer classes aids locomotion, but the gentry invariably travel 
Sedan chairs, often accompanied retinue, bearing banners and 
gongs, that does not lend dignity Westerner’s eyes, made 
impressing the loafers and beggars who congregate the door 
every 


pohih- -pai- chung 
ping 
1 
Mao-chau 


49% 


si-ko-pung 


2064 
( ‘hang mang 


Nails 


IR 0000 in- chang 
200 
An hsien 
= yong chao-\uen 


Low hills ‘ 


4 
shwei-ho 


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Lo. chiang] hsiew ot 

low 3. 

1983 

rushy bed 


of rwer with 
mary channels 


CHINA 


hi 

tiao chang 


1900 


Pi hsien, L ung- chai Seale of Miles 


—L, 
Sin-san-hsien 


Heights in feet 


Over fifty persons, attached the various missions, compose the 
European population, and their hospitality and semi-European homes 
form welcome break the monotony everlasting sea yellow 
faces and blue gowns. addition, one the missions maintains 
very serviceable hospital about twenty beds, which believe much 
resorted the Chinese. Finally, home-like touch given the 


Chung pa-chang 


q 
Chiang-yurhsien) 
ary 
at 
iao-pu 
Y ttf 
af 
fa 
Pai-shwei Fe 
we? =~ 
Show. df ai 
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284 TWO THE NORTH 


steam-whistle the Arsenal, establishment employing over 
hands, and containing much fine machinery, some built locally. 
However, not employed the best advantage, Hotchkiss guns 
and Martini rifles are being turned out side side with matchlocks 
and other weird and wonderful lethal weapons. 

April set out for Tung-ling-tse, after engaging carriers 
through hong,” association that contracts for all carriage, 
and is, through its overseers, responsible for the safety property 
under their charge. may say that, after warning our personal 
“boys” that they would held responsible for any discrepancies 
between the stores issued and did not, several months’ 
travel, lose single article, although most our things were carried 
unlocked baskets. each man carries about for light 
travelling, and the etiquette China ordains that foreigner must 
travel with eight-bearer chair, such used officialdom, 
wishes touch with the officials the country, the 
cavalcade was imposing one. Further dignity was given the 
presence Waiyuan, magistrate, red umbrella and all, whom the 
Viceroy ordered accompany us, and proclamation from the 
Viceroy, Mining Commissioner and Tartar General, which enjoined the 
populace respectful “the strangers from afar,” and which was 
posted the official notice-boards ahead us. 

After leaving Cheng-tu the north gate, proceeded north-north- 
west over plain seamed with irrigation channels, and covered with 
pretty farms and numerous villages and towns. Although the roads 
are crooked, ill paved, and ofttimes boggy, the streams are invariably 
spanned structures from flat stone slab imposing 
covered bridges wood and masonry. Single-arch bridges are 
frequently met with, built spheroidal boulders held place 
their own weight, without mortar any description. Similar structures 
carry small which grinding stones feet diameter 
are actuated open turbine, driven stream water flowing 
down inclined trough and impinging the vanes. For irrigation 
—and irrigation streams are subdivided 
marvellous manner, and where the water cannot led gravitation, 
either the Chinese chain-pump used, or, inches head can 
obtained, large undershot water-wheels slowly revolve, and 
raise the water the higher levels buckets cut from length 
bamboo and affixed the periphery. 

Our first day’s march miles road brought the walled 
city Pen-hsien, which, were informed its magistrate, boasts 
intramural population 60,000, and like number outside the walls. 
were fortunate securing large and cleanly hotel, poetically 
known the Propitious with handsome garden the back 
the official room. may mentioned that there inn 


str: 
abl 
no 

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TWO TRIPS THE NORTH CHENG-TU. 285 


almost every village, or, failing temple, where every traveller, 
down the humblest coolie, repairs nightly, and for fraction 
penny obtains wadded quilt from the hotel office, and the right 
straw pallet, bunk, and hot water. Food also obtainable reason- 
able rates, and too many them dirt and other plagues are also 
had gratis. 

Our next day’s route was across the plain the north-west till 
noon, where reached the hills Kwang-ko. Kwang-ko found 
small straggling village, chiefly remarkable the head 
very complete system irrigation canals. The Chian-kiang, river 
about the size the Tay, flows over long weir which seems serve 
the purpose distributing evenly into four channels, which im- 
mediately diverge and serve that portion the plain too high 
reached the waters the Min, which are similarly split miles the 
west-south-west Kwan-hsien. little above the village crossed 
from the right the left bank over handsome five-span suspension 
bridge bamboo cables carried masonry piers. Some miles higher 
recrossed, this time over bridge plank carried piers 
bamboo wickerwork cylinders filled with shingle, and stopped the 
village Shau-ye-tung. The river flats over which travelled 
were for the most part very densely populated and closely cultivated. 
the east high mountains were visible carrying light powdering 
snow. Subsequently met with traces snow 7000 feet, but 
was not met with any quantity below 8000 feet, which height 
least inclined estimate this range. 

Arriving Tung-ling-tse monastery (3900 feet), made our 
headquarters while looked various mining shows the neigh- 
bourhood. were obliged, for want accommodation, camp 
tents, our men filled the temple. Tents, though very great 
improvement upon the general run hotels, unfortunately cannot 
used much the densely populated districts, where the sub-aqueous 
cultivation rice leaves room for them; but the hills, where the 
only accommodation poor and needed the men, they are very 
great comfort and convenience. From this camp centre made 
several excursions, short mileage, but long difficulty. The first 
was the mountain-side about 2000 feet, and our magistrate afforded 
opportunity seeing Chinese official mountaineering. did 
coolie’s back—2000 feet mountain path frequently cut 
into steps give foothold. Subsequently inveigled him into 
ascent 2500 feet his own legs, but the effort nearly killed him, 
and had carried down. Afterwards plaintively remarked 
“that Chinese gentlemen are never taught walk.” this trip 
large number apes about the size collie dogs were seen. 
and also tried reach mine the north, but failed owing to,heavy 


snow-drifts dangerous From 7000 10,000 saw 
No. 


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286 TWO TRIPS THE NORTH CHENG-TU. 


but little the country, dense clouds shrouded the hills. this 
latter height camped for the night, the weather being surprisingly 
mild. Next morning made further miles, with much heavy 
snow all slopes with northerly aspect, and exciting descent 
about feet along notched log thrown diagonally across cliff some 
hundreds feet high. Our guide did not seem mind it, but the 
rest did. Crossing pass 11,250 feet, started descend 
into but the southern side being very steep and covered with 
several feet loose snow, our guide gave lost within mile 
our objective. Tigers and yaks were reported inhabit the moun- 
tains, but only saw the tracks deer and big dog-like track. 
just previous our noticing the latter, our military escort had insisted 
that should ahead with our revolvers protect them from tigers, 
did not think advisable ask their opinion its origin, 
wished further. Descending the valley the Chian 
kiang from Tung-ling-tse, ascended two tributary streams the 
right bank. The largest these, the Pei-shewi-ho, just rift 
the mountains, and cultivation possible—a marked contrast the 
valley the main stream. our tracks, reached 
Cheng-tu the 15th, and made the necessary arrangements for six 
weeks’ trip the north, mostly way Gill’s route. 
Captain Gill mapped with greater accuracy than was able to, only 
the deviation from his route shown. 

April left the main Pekin road, Tse-te-chau, some 
miles north-north-east Cheng-tu, and then proceeded 28° 
until reached the town Shi-fung-hsien. Between this town and 
Mien-chau crossed the boulder-strewn bed river, about half 
mile wide, which must undoubtedly that crossed Gill miles 
the east-south-east. Shortly after crossing this stream the hills border- 
ing the plain were noticed about miles off, with gap from which 
one branch the stream evidently flows. for the other streams 
which cross the route between Cheng-tu and Chi-shwei-ho, although 
good idea can formed where they leave the impossible 
give their eastward direction, they are completely split and 
trained serve the needs man, that often uncertain whether 
natural stream canal that crosses the road. Mien-chau 
large city enclosed strong wall and moat. What the population 
was did not hear; but Pen-hsien contains 60,000, should say 
this city should contain about 100,000. Its industries are paper-making 
distributing centre. 

After leaving Mien-chau, the edge the plain lies about miles 
west the road until miles past where the road crosses 
low pass the foothills and runs down small river An-hsien. 
The whole plain from these foothills was scene inde- 


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TWO TRIPS THE NORTH CHENG-TU, 287 


scribable beauty, the fields being one mass brilliant colour with huge 
poppies every possible tint, broken only the green groves 
bamboo, poplar, and willow surrounding the white-walled, black-roofed 
farm steadings. The amount opium produced must enormous. 
the courtesy the officials An-hsien, were put the 
Cantonese Guildhall, club-house, just outside the city. This was 
beautiful little place, with gardens, groves, and rockeries, and couple 
very clean and pleasant An-hsien station 
the Church Missionary Society, five missionaries being there; while 
two ladies are stationed Shih-chuen, further the north-west. 
the north the town there very fine wing dam about half mile 
long and feet high, solid concrete, built keep the river 
from flooding the town. After day’s delay proceeded run the 
river reach Shih-chuen. Two miles from An-hsien crossed 
long three-span bridge wrought-iron chains, with planks laid 
across them for decking, forming light and elegant structure. 
From Li-ko-ping followed the main stream for miles, and, then 
returning, crossed over pass (2930 feet) and descended Chusan 
feet), the right bank the Shih-chuen river, and camped. 

From Chusan Shih-chuen-hsien good day’s march, the road 
being very hilly and rough. Just before entering the town the river 
crossed bamboo suspension bridge 240 feet span, built 
plaited bamboo cables, each big man’s thigh. these 
support wicker floor, and two either side form side chains. Though 
the bridge sways considerably, ponies are always being ridden across 
must have ample strength. The cables are strained big 
capstans either bank, and the whole bridge is, informed, 
renewed intervals about three years—no small tax town 
10,000 inhabitants the outside. Excursions the two branches 
the river gave their courses for few miles, but when left them 
they were still very considerable volume. They are crossed when 
required the “single-rope” bridge, which common Tibet. 
river tumultuous and full rapids, rendering quite unfit for 
navigation until Tung-ko reached. 

After returning Chusan made east, rising 4930 feet 
miles, before descending gradually Tung-ko (2110 feet), large 
village the right bank the Shih-chuen river, which reappears 
from the north. From here the road runs generally east-north-east 
through low hills, partially cultivated, till reaches large river, 
which have been unable identify with any Captain Gill’s route. 
Boats are seen it. Five miles further brought Chiang- 
yu-hsien, where rejoined Gill’s route. 


One the most conspicuous traits the Chinese the plain 


their aversion cold drinks. Every mile two, and main roads 


every few hundred yards, tea-houses are found where the thirsty 


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288 TANGANYIKA PROBLEM.’ 


wayfarer, payment about quarter farthing, can obtain 
basin with few tea-leaves and much boiling water cares 
drink. Sometimes the tea absent, but drink the 
boiling water. This custom universal: not think ever saw 
one them drink cold water, and they have even tried dissuade 
from drinking mountain torrent far above all habitation. Cer- 
tainly upon the plain, where the land heavily manured, and all the 
water has been used for irrigation somewhere other, would 
simply suicidal touch unboiled water, and doubt the natives have 
learned the lesson from experience. example, have even seen 
the village water-supply taken out one end rice-field while the 
village sewage was being emptied into the other. 

conclusion, can only say that the district described one 
the greatest interest the traveller, not only for the fine scenery 
the surrounding hills and the beauty the plain, but—and chiefly, 
mind—as example what can done with systematic and 
complete system irrigation, and the most intense cultivation pro- 
bably the world, carry teeming population scrupulously careful 
return the soil everything that can given it, and the reward 
six crops year according Chinese information. The prevalent 
saw were: March 17, rape flower and pod; April 25, poppy; 
May 31, tobacco; June 20, rice being planted out. can quite believe 
the statement that another crop rice and sixth crop raised. 
These appeared the main crops, but wheat, barley, buckwheat, 
saffron, beans, cabbage, egg-plant, and others lesser importance were 
also seen. Unfortunately, did not see the same fields 
carrying these crops succession, proof lacking, but each trip was 
through one main crop. Most the main crops are raised seed-beds, 
and immediately the residue the last crop ploughed in, the seed- 
lings are planted out. For example, the rice about foot high when 
planted out stalk stalk into the The labour, course, 
enormous, but the result that 4,000,000 people live plain 
perhaps 3000 square miles. 


‘THE TANGANYIKA PROBLEM.’* 


contents this volume are zoological and geological, but the 
principal questions under consideration are geographical importance, 
These questions are: the physical geography Central Africa past 
times, and the distribution, past and present, the animals inhabiting 


Tanganyika Account the Researches undertaken concerning 
Blackett, Ltd. 


> 
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‘THE TANGANYIKA PROBLEM.’ 289 


the lakes and rivers that region. The problem solved was the 
Lake Tanganyika certain shells and jelly-fish 
belonging types supposed exclusively marine. 

For the solution this problem and for inquiries into the geography, 
geology, and zoology the lake region Central Africa, two expedi- 
tions succession under Mr. Moore’s charge were dispatched Lake 
Tanganyika and some other Central African lakes. Both these 
expeditions have been fully described the Geographical Journal, and 
will suffice the present case notice briefly the scientific results 
presented the present 

Mr. Moore’s task has been successfully achieved. Whether his 
conclusions accepted not, there can doubt the thoroughness 
his work. The fact that has, states, added two hundred new 
species the fauna Central African lakes, shows how extensively 
must have collected, and has himself investigated the anatomy the 
mollusca and some other invertebrates. are but few travellers, 
even the present day, who have the anatomical and zoological know- 
ledge which have been employed the investigation the Tanganyika 
fauna. Mr. Moore has also, with the assistance Mr. Fergusson, been 
able add considerably our knowledge the geology the African 
lake region. 

The results the exploration may divided into two 
series those which are mainly geological, and those which relate the 
distribution animal life. The two are closely connected, but they 
are the subjects different chapters the present work, they may 
noticed separately. 

The principal great systems rocks the lake region Central 
Africa are stated Mr. Moore be, descending order— 

African lake pleistocenes. 

beds: sandstones and shells approximately Triassic 
age. 

Old African sandstones: sandstones and shales, unfossiliferous, 
great thickness and unknown age. 

Crystalline formations: schist, gneiss, granite, etc. 

This succession, the subrecent lake-beds neglected, the main 
similar that found South Africa and the peninsula India, the 
Drummond’s beds being apparently the equivalents the Karoos and 
whilst the old African sandstones may possibly represent 
the Table mountain sandstones South Africa and the Vindhyans 
India. The older series has hitherto proved unfossiliferous, and its 
origin obscure, commonly supposed marine origin, but 
the absence fossils proof wanting that the ancient sandstones and 
shales were formed seas like those the present day. 

The occurrence the Drummond’s beds ganoid fishes and 
bivalve mollusca related those found Lake Tanganyika, together 


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290 TANGANYIKA 


with the reported discovery echinoderm near Lake Nyasa, 
regarded Mr. Moore (p. 72) evidence that the strata are marine 
origin. The bivalve shells Tanganyika are, however, exclusively 
fresh-water types, are the ganoid fishes also (there reason why some 
Triassic ganoids may not have lived fresh water), and the echinoderm 
noticed Dr. Gregory was doubtful origin and Oliocene age, 
that clearly could not have come from the beds. The view 
that these rocks are marine origin cannot regarded, the evidence 
their South African representatives, they are fresh-water origin and 
very largely fluviatile. 

The point would have been hardly worth mentioning but for the 
circumstance that Mr. Moore has prominently attacked what terms 
(p. x.) Murchison’s erroneous hypothesis concerning African stability.” 
If, however, the strata here termed beds are inland 
origin, Murchison’s views are not very far wrong, and the theory that 
Central Africa part ancient land area greatly strengthened. 
true that Mr. Moore’s criticism chiefly put forward opposition 
the idea that mountain ridges have been formed Africa since 
Mesozoic times; but that may have taken place parts the 
area was fully admitted Murchison (Jour. Roy. Geogr. Soc., vol. 
xxii., 1852, 123). 

The principal geological question which attention was directed 
connection with the Tanganyika problem was the origin the lake 
thus explained. period subsequent the formation 
the Drummond’s beds, but not clearly determinable, great change 
the physical geography Africa commenced, and has con- 
tinued the present day, resulting the elevation meridional 
axis extending from the Nile the Zambezi. For this axis, which 
culminates Ruwenzori, Mr. Moore proposes the name the Great 
Central Range.” this tract elevated ground, the 
Suess and Rift-valleys” Gregory and other writers, for which 
proposed the new name Eurycolpic folds,” have been formed 
result the general folding from lateral pressure. shown that 
these valleys are not simply meridional, but that they branch and 
intersect each other places, and Mr. Moore inclined compare 
them the equatorial canal-system Mars rather than the rifts 
the Moon’s surface. 

doubtful whether the new term, “eurycolpic fold,” 
improvement rift-valley (trough valley would have been better), 
for these remarkable features are not, strictly speaking, folds, but 
longitudinal blocks let down trough faults, and they are not always 
(broad bosomed), some being comparatively great 
breadth. Unfortunately, the difficulty accounting for these valleys 


not removed renaming 


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‘THE TANGANYIKA PROBLEM.’ 291 


the bottom these curious troughs volcanic cones are 
what frequent occurrence, and testify the immense pressure accom- 
panying the dislocations that taken place. One the volcanic 
areas, that the Mfumbiro mountains, north Lake Kivu, received 
especial attention, for forms the water-parting between the Congo 
and Nile drainage areas. shown that, previously the eruptions 
which the Mfumbiro cones are due, the water Lake Kivu, south 
them, drained northward the Albert Edward Nyanza and Albert 
Nyanza, which occupy the northern extension the Tanganyikan 
trough, and that the present drainage Kivu the southward into 
Tanganyika the Russisi due the dam formed the 
volcanic 

several places Mr. Moore calls attention evidence showing how 
recent some the dislocations must which the valley troughs are 
due. clear that the cliffs bordering the valleys were not very 
recent geological date, they would have been destroyed the action 
denudation. 

now the biological questions involved the Tanganyika 
problem, enter upon debatable ground. preliminary question 
whether the marine types were confined Lake Tanganyika 
whether representatives were found other inland waters has 
been decided. the fauna found the numerous 
lakes Africa, from Rudolf and Albert Nyanza Bangweolo, 
Nyasa, and Shirwa, has shown that the marine forms 
types,” they are termed Mr. Moore, are confined 
absence these shells from Kivu, Albert 
and Albert, the north opposed theory once 
suggested—that the marine forms found their way into 
from the Red sea. 

explanation the problem offered Mr. Moore 
the following: The fauna the lake twofold, ordinary fresh- 
water fauna consisting genera fish, mollusca, common other 
African lakes, and most cases wide distribution, and the 
group. The latter are regarded the original inhabitants, 
and the ordinary fresh-water forms are more recent introduction. 
The “halolimnic” mollusca belong fourteen genera, all univalves, 
and these less than eight closely resemble forms found fossil 
the Jurassic rocks Western that there good reason regard 
them descendants the same similar species. must remem- 
bered that evidence this kind accumulative, the resemblance one 
two shells might due accidental similarity, but very ques- 
tionable whether the numerous instances here described and illustrated 
excellent figures the modern and ancient forms side side can 
attributed fortuitous resemblance. The fauna there- 
fore regarded derived from marine organisms Jurassic age, and 


4 


292 TANGANYIKA PROBLEM.’ 


the structure the animals shown generalized primitive 
type, reasonable conclusion that these genera have retained the 
external and internal structure forms belonging Middle Mesozoic 
times. retaining structure less specialized than that their 
nearest marine relations, the halolimnic types Tanganyika agree with 
most forms fresh-water life, but they are distinguished their rela- 
tion fossil fauna definite geological age. 

How these descendants old Jurassic molluscs found their way into 
Tanganyika not quite clear, but inferred that they may have 
inhabited the area the lake since this tract formed part Jurassic 
sea, which supposed have extended over the Congo basin. 

far this the views expressed the present work may 
accepted justified the evidence, though some the data which 
the former existence marine area the Congo basin inferred are 
not convincing. For instance, some weight attached the presence 
the present Congo estuary genus allied one 
the Tanganyikan genera. But this same genus abounds the shores 
the Indian ocean, and might consequently regarded showing 
that the Tanganyikan halolimuic fauna Eastern origin. 

The weakest point the connection between the Tanganyikan 
halolimnic fauna and the Jurassic marine fauna that confined 
univalve shells belonging single section. Mr. Moore’s opinion, 
besides the halolimnic mollusca, the prawns, crabs, sponges, jelly-fishes, 
and several the fishes, the ganoid Polypterus, the dipnoan Protopterus, 
some the and most the (p. 340), should 
included the halolimnic group. far some the invertebrata 
are concerned, may right, but none them have the same specially 
Jurassic affinities the mollusca, whilst not only are all the fishes 
widely spread types, but the Cichlide especial are perch-like forms, 
nothing resembling which known from Jurassic rocks, any beds 
older than Upper Cretaceous, urged (p. 340) that Tanganyika 
the original centre from which the Cichlide were firstly, 
because the number species occurring the lake; secondly, 
because their primitive character. The second argument may 
some importance; the first not, single instance will show. The 
majority living antelopes are African, but the original source the 
antelopes was all probability Europe and Asia. 

There are some other opinions expressed ‘The Tanganyika 
Problem’ which desirable call attention, because they are 
different from those held biologists They are found 
chapter ii. Mr. Moore discusses the distribution and origin 
fresh-water faunas, and concludes (p. 29) that they are chiefly composed 
the remains oace widely distributed and ancient sea-fauna, 
the ancestors the surviving components which were forced out 
the ocean into the fresh waters the globe owing change the 


PROBLEM.’ 293 


character the sea itself. This change appears have become 
ciently strongly marked have produced appreciable differentiation 
period roughly corresponding the commencement the secondary 
rocks. this matter would appear that assemblages similar 
organisms have necessity taken fresh water all over the world 
about the same time.” 

startling hypothesis return the doctrine the sporadic 
origin” species and genera current pre-Darwinian times. The 
whole subject the origin fresh-water faunas was discussed Darwin 
chapter xii. the Origin Species,’ and his conclusions are opposed 
those expressed The Tanganyika Problem.’ 

There one objection the hypothesis the ordinary fresh-water 
fauna having been derived from the marine life any single geological 
epoch, which may mentioned, because has particular reference 
the Tanganyikan fauna. Mr. Moore has shown that near allies 
several halolimnic shells are found Jurassic strata, and 
has inferred that the Jurassic forms were the ancestors the recent 
genera, But where the ancient marine fauna from which Unio and 
Corbicula, Vivipara and Melania, Lymnea and Planorbis, are probably 
derived? The first step towards establishing common origin for these 
genera show that fauna once existed from which all might have 

The earliest strata which assemblage fresh-water mollusca 
found all nearly approaching that the present day the 
Purbeck Wealden, Upper Jurassic and Lower Cretaceous. Had 
these forms established themselves fresh waters about the com- 
mencement the formation the secondary rocks,” why are 
them found the Trias, which there lack strata fresh-water 
origin? may added that, although many fish are known from 
Triassic rocks, nothing resembling the commonest forms fresh-water 
fish-life, such carps, siluroids, and percoids, occurs amongst them. 

The expressed (p. 30) that fresh-water mollusca have but 
little tendency migrate, and that fresh-water fishes and the more 
active invertebrata have greater migratory powers than mollusca. This 
opposed the views generally held. well known how quickly 
artificial pond, with which stream connected, becomes stocked 
with fresh-water shells, and Darwin and others have shown how the 
young are transported birds, whilst well-known fact that the 
pond-mussels (Unio) attach themselves fishes. The specific 
differences between the different African lakes, strongly and repeatedly 
insisted upon Mr. Moore evidence separate origin the 
mollusca inhabiting those sheets water, will not weigh much with 
those who know what trivial differences species” fresh-water 
are founded. 

There one more argument Moore’s which must challenged. 


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294 THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN THE WORLD. 


says (pp. 19, 20), distribution Characinid fishes the 
American and African fresh waters quite inexplicable any sup- 
position their having originated relic fauna some one arm 
the sea, for there evidence that there has been any connection 
between the remote state (sic) land masses which these bodies now 
inhabit. the same with the Cichlide and many other forms 
fish.” The view advocated that these African and American fresh- 
water fishes must have originated, both sides the Atlantic, from 
marine forms simultaneously, but say 
that such origin could account for the distribution 
family land lizards, with similar distribution that the 
and Mr. Moore cannot acquainted with all 
that has been written, both biologists and geologists, the 
former land connection between Africa and South America, connection 
which have existed during Jurassic and Cretaceous times, and 
which probably continued the early geological data are 
treated Suess the Antlitz der Erde the biological, palwontological, 
and recent facts are found scattered through number works, 
the earliest being the late Prof. The principal data 
known 1890 are contained the presidential address the Geological 
Society for that year, but additional evidence has since been brought 
forward Gregory, Beddard, and others, one the most recent con- 
tributions the subject being that Dr. Max Schoeller, noticed this 
Journal for January, the facts are widely known, that 
remarkable tind them, together with those contained Darwin’s 
Origin Species,’ completely ignored writer who propounding 
novel views the distribution animals. 

If, however, favourable opinion can expressed some 
the biological theories announced Tanganyika Problem,’ the 
descriptions and figures the animals found are great merit. The 
account the fishes Mr. Boulenger, and the accompanying figures, 
both coloured and uncoloured, are admirably executed. The descriptions 
the mollusca and the other invertebrata are Mr. Moore, and 
form valuable addition knowledge, and the accompanying cuts are 
landscapes the earlier part the book are less successful, 
and regretted that misprints are rather numerous throughout. 


THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN THE WORLD. 
DOUGLAS FRESHFIELD. 


Some years ago (in 1886) argued,* with pertinacity which 
afraid may have seemed presumptuous some readers, against 


Proceedings the Royal Geographical Society, vol. viii. New Series; and Alpine 
Journal, xii. 


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THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN THE WORLD. 295 


the conviction the late General Walker, formerly the head the 
Indian Survey, that Hermann Schlagintweit, together with Mr. Brian 
Hodgson, witness great weight, and other more recent Residents 
Nepal, were mistaken believing that the snowy peaks visible 
the east from the neighbourhood Katmandu, and called 
the inhabitants, all probability include the 
triangulated peak, 29,002 feet, commonly known England Mount 
Everest.’ 


29,002 feet ? 


hy 


y 


PEAKS SEEN TO THE EAST FROM HILLS NORTH OF KATMANDU. 
(After Herr photograph.) 


Major (now Colonel) Waddell, authority these matters, ex- 
presses what presume has been the popular verdict the discussion 
the following terms 

the Continent one the vague Indian mythological names, 
obtained Schlagintweit from the Nepalese Khatmandu, 
for mountain which supposed identical with the Everest 
the Survey, usually assigned it—namely, Gauri-sankar,’ one 
the titles the conjugal Indian god Shiva, the Destroyer, and his wife. 
But not generally known that the identity these two mountains 
has been conclusively disproved General Walker, the late Surveyor- 
General India, and Colonel Tanner, his deputy. Owing the 
curvature the Earth, and the interposition other ranges, 
physically impossible see Everest either from Khatmandu, the 
Kaulia Kakani peaks, whence Schlagintweit believed saw it, 


the Waddell. 1899. have not altered the 
spelling the local names adopted the author. 


ig 
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296 THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN THE WORLD. 


and got his local name, ‘Gauri-sankar.’ for Kanchenjunga, which 
Schlagintweit says was also visible from that position, shown 
‘fully 100 miles beyond the most remote point visible from that 
And Colonel Tanner has directly proved that the Gaurisan- 
kar Schlagintweit certainly not the Everest the Survey, but 
much smaller and totally different mountain. writes, have 
now before the panoramic and angular measurements 
Major Wilson, for some time Resident Nepal, who observed from 
Sheopuri, point the Kaulia ridge. Schlagintweit’s Gaurisankar, 
the Everest” successive political Residents Nepal, was pointed 
out Major Wilson, and from his angular measurements able 
identify that peak No. XX., 23,447 feet, more than mile lower than 
Everest, and point distance very far short it.’” 

far Colonel Waddell. assertions are convincing first 
but they not bear examination. When refer the official 
map, which furnishes reproduction, notice that there 
nothing that document show that impossible, either from the 
curvature the Earth the interposition other ranges, separately 
combined, for the peak 29,002 feet seen distance 105 
110 miles from height 10,000 feet, some miles north 
Katmandu. From Katmandu itself the great peak would apparently 
covered the peak XVIII., 21,957 feet. But what can seen from 
the city itself never formed any part argument. 

1886 concluded share the discussion stating that 
must left for some competent observer Katmandu decide 
whether the 29,002-feet peak visible from the hills the vicinity. 

the end last year two fresh pieces evidence turned up. 
Lieut.-Colonel Pears, the Resident Katmandu, confirmed the 
report his predecessors that the snows seen the east from near 
Katmandu are locally called Gaurisankar,” and Mrs. Pears exhibited 
the Alpine Club sketch this range. The objection will, 
course, taken that this new evidence itself only confirmation 
the statement earlier travellers that the eastern snows seen from 
this quarter are called Gaurisankar, and proof that the 29,002-feet 
summit one the peaks visible. But have also, German 
work just published, photograph the view the eastern snows 
from the hill (Kaulia and Kakani are points the same ridge) visited 
Schlagintweit, with what obviously enlargement part 
it, showing the principal group. 

Now, these photographs, just over the northern flank peak 
can hardly wrong recognizing appears snowy 
mountain, the outline which corresponds very closely, taking into 
account the relative positions from which the photographs were 


Indien verschlossenen Land Nepal.’ Dr. Boeck. 1893. 


| 


Makalu. 29 002 feet 


Telephotograph. 


THE NEPAL PEAKS FROM 


29,002 feet. Makalu. 


THE NEPAL PEAKS FROM SANDAKPHU. 


=: 


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THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN THE WORLD. 297 


obtained, with the outline the 29,002-feet peak Signor Sella’s 
photograph, seen from the Chunjerma pass eastern Nepal. And 
this mountain is, with regard peak the exact position 
where Everest” should be. may be, the surveyors 
insisted, hidden from the city peak XVIII., but the situation 
Kakani, few miles further north, suffices open it. 

This summit was, understand from Dr. Boeck, pointed out 
him Gaurisankar, and apparently, quite unconscious both the 
previous visit his fellow-countryman the spot, and that deal- 
ing with controversial matter, congratulates himself his accomplish- 
ment pilgrimage Gaurisankar-Everest, the highest mountain 
the Earth.” 

seems, therefore, that Dr. Boeck has furnished some further 
ground for believing that Mr. Hodgson was right after all, and that the 
summit known this country Mount Everest” does form part 
the group visible and known the natives central 
Nepal. should add that summit apparently corresponding position 
with the peak XX. the Survey also recognizable Dr. Boeck’s 
photograph. 

trust have made clear that the point have been arguing 
throughout is, whether the 29,002-feet peak among the snows visible 
from Kakani, and known Gaurisankar, and not, whether Schlagint- 
weit, Major Wilson, other observers, have identified rightly the 
particular summit. Most visitors Sikhim, including Schlagintweit 
and, one time, General Walker himself, mistook Makalu for the 
highest peak. This does not affect the fact that Mount Everest” 
visible from Sandakphu. Nor could the failure Europeans Kat- 
mandu recognize which was the culminating point the group the 
Nepalese call Gaurisankar prove that the 29,002-feet peak out 
sight, not called Gaurisankar. instance nearer home may 
help make the case more clear. the Italian lakes the Saasgrat 
has been frequently mistaken for Monte Rosa. one would argue 
this account that Monte Rosa invisible, has not the best right 
its name. The reason for which the surveyors argued strenuously 
forty-five years ago that the 29,002-feet peak cannot the Gaurisankar 
Nepal was, course, that their chief’s proceeding giving the 
mountain English name was excused, justified, the time the 
assertion that had local native name. have now got two 
native names, the Indian name Gaurisankar and the Tibetan name 
Chomokankar, long ago brought forward Chandra Das, and, though 
never, far know, seriously disputed, generally ignored, until 
Colonel Waddell brought into prominence, Personally should like 
see Gaurisankar win the day. 

The illustration the text taken from Dr. Boeck’s photograph. 
The two photographic plates show the aspect Mapalu and the 


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298 


THE CIRCULATION THE ATMOSPHERE THE 


29,002-feet peak from the south-east and somewhat south east, 
distances and miles respectively. 

Dr. Boeck declares quite positively that from Kakani recognized 
Kangchenjunga, Kabru, and Jannu, and, previous year had 
made the trip from Darjiling Pamionchi and Akluthang, ought 
have had difficulty recognizing such characteristic forms. Dog- 
matic assertions about the visibility Kangchenjunga from certain 


points central Nepal can, however, carry weight until confirmed 


substantial evidence. All depends the exact height the stand- 


point and the intervening ranges. far the curvature the Earth 
concerned there whatever. have recognized with the 
naked eye, and examined with glasses, from summit (Punta San 
Matteo) the Orteler group Monte Viso, 210 miles distant, and some 
the triangulations the Indian Survey depend rays even greater 
length. Kangchenjunga less than 200 miles from and 
16,000 feet higher than Monte Viso. far can judge from 
maps, the southern outliers the (raurisankar group, over 20,000 feet 
height, would effectually mask the Sikhim mountains from the west. 
trust that Colonel Pears, his return India, may able, with the 
help the Surveyor-General, obtain telephotographic views the 
visible ranges, with the bearings the principal peaks seen from 

central Nepal, and thus settle definitely the matters still controversy.* 


THE CIRCULATION THE ATMOSPHERE THE 
TROPICAL AND EQUATORIAL REGIONS. 


Mr. communicates the Monthly Weather Review for April 
last, the replies Prof. Hildebrandsson inquiries addressed him the 
state knowledge the circulation the atmosphere within the tropics, and the 
possibility extending that knowledge means with kites 
balloons. Prof. Hildebrandsson’s statement follows 


ANTITRADE AND ITS INVESTIGATIONS. 


Theories Atmospheric has been believed from the time 
Halley, and more fully developed theories have been put forward Dove, Maury, 
and Ferrel, that the ascending currents above the thermal equator proceed imme- 
diately south-west and north-west antitrades over the north-east and south-east 
trade winds. part the antitrade, perhaps, sinks down over the high barometric 
pressures the North and South Atlantic oceans and returns with the trade winds, 
but the greater part the antitrade first descends the surface the ocean north 


The report the surveyor (published separately with map 1887) 
throws light the point under discussion, although crossed the 
La. only miles the north-west the 29,002-feet peak. 


TROPICAL AND EQUATORIAL REGIONS. 299 


and south the trade winds, and continues the poles the prevailing south- 
west north-west winds the north south temperate zones. The facts upon 
which this theory based are very meagre. only the peak Teneriffe 
(12,180 feet) that the antitrade can observed the whole year. Its mean lower 
limit the height 9000 feet, and this height greater summer than 
winter. October sinks 6000 feet. Leopold von Buch (as cited Dove, 
‘Das Gesetz der 27) wrote 1825, follows: Should not believe 
that the west wind sought for the summer voyages from England 


the latitude the Azores and ordinarily found there is, well the 
west wind the summit the peak, the upper equatorial current that has 
here come down the level the sea? would then follow that the equatorial 
current the upper regions, least over the Atlantic ocean, does not reach the 


> 


ISOBARS WINDS JULY 


far know, this the only empirical fact upon which the theory 
founded; but, the other hand, should said that not proved that the 
surface wind the Azores the prolongation the antitrade. When the centre 
the barometric maximum shifts the south, the south-west wind also moves 
lower latitudes, and the antitrade sinks near the centre the same time, 
probably must lower level the peak when the centre approaching. 
But, already stated, not certain that the antitrade reaches the surface the 
ocean north this centre high pressure. 

knowledge very limited. know that the anti- 
trade exists over the trades, least the North Atlantic and the Sandwich 
islands, but one has found this current Central America Ecuador, 
while the smoke the highest around Quito constantly indicate 
strong wind from the east. the accompanying map the isobars and surface 


| in | | = ~ 
ne TSG a +-— | + bd 
760 
760 ia | | 


300 THE CIRCULATION THE ATMOSPHERE. 
winds for July are copied from Hann’s Atlas der Meteorologie,’ while the long 
arrows indicate the directions movement the cirrus clouds July. see 
that there broad upper stream flowing from the east both above and each 
side the thermal equator. Manila the direction east-north-east, India 
south-east, Congo east-south-east, Guiana and Costa Rica due east, Jamaica and 
Havana east-south-east, though winter west-south-west Havana. 
about latitude 20° the direction west-south-west Key West and 
west Mauritius, while over the whole temperate zone the Northern Hemisphere, 
from the United States the west Assam and Shanghai the east, westerly 
winds prevail. Melbourne the direction also west 16° 

The observations discussed the forthcoming Rapport sur les Observations 
Internationales des Nuages Comité Météorologique International,’ which will 
probably issued this year, indicate that there exist the upper regions— 

(1) strong easterly wind above the equatorial belt. 

(2) Strong westerly winds over the two temperate zones, forming two immense 
polar cyclones, which our ordinary cyclones are formed satellites. 

(3) about 20° north and south latitudes the easterly wind rapidly shifts 
the south-west and west. Above the peak Teneriffe the antitrade blows from 
almost due west there are observations summer. 

The late Mr. Abercromby observed with great care the upper currents the 
doldrums both the Atlantic and Indian oceans, and came the conclusion that 
high levels the two trade winds rather tend coalesce into single wind from 
the east, and that the poleward motion air near the equator very small. These 
results were got watching very carefully the vertical succession upper 
currents. the Northern Hemisphere, one stands with his face the wind, 
the upper winds will found coming more and more from the left hand the 
higher they are. the Southern Hemisphere the rule reversed, for then the 
upper currents flow more and more toward the left. Now, his investigations, 
Abercromby found that with the surface wind blowing from south-east south- 
west there was more easterly wind higher levels, or, other words, that the 
vertical succession winds proper the Southern Hemisphere prevailed also for 
some distance north the equator. the southern Indian ocean from 10° 
12° during its season north-west monsoon, found the upper clouds coming 
from north-north-east east, or,in other words, the rule succession for the 
Northern Hemisphere extends little over the equator into the Southern Hemi- 
sphere. Hence proved that the trades and monsoons not meet, rise, and 
flow back poleward, but that the two winds coalesce form one general easterly 
wind one general current toward the west over the doldrums, which was observed 
directly after the eruption Krakatoa August, The dust went around 
the world the equator few days, but did not reach middle latitudes until 
two three months later. Our knowledge the vertical variation temperature 
and humidity almost nothing, and not know whether there sudden 
change these elements between the trade and the 

Method Exploration proposed.—The first experiment could best performed 
July and August, for that season the thermal equator its most northerly 
latitude, and, course, the doldrums and the prolonged south-east trade winds are 
broadest and best developed, since they extend over 10° latitude, namely, from 
10° north. Besides, have then fixed point the Azores, exactly the 
centre the barometric maximum the North party landed 
there during the expedition could much interesting work studying the 
central region tropical anticyclone. The expedition should leave Boston, 
Mass., the end June, and follow the track indicated crosses and broken 


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THE GEOGRAPHICAL ASSOCIATION ANNUAL MEETING. 301 


arrows the map. skirting the isobar 762 millimetres you should 
observe carefully the direction the different clouds, and trust you will find, 
usual, that the upper winds come more and more from the left hand the 
higher they are, and will not find any trace descending equatorial current.” 
means vertical soundings with kites you will probably obtain the same 
result Blue Hill under the same weather type, although confess that this 
part the experiment would probably more conclusive winter, when the 
gradient between the Azores and Iceland steeper. From the English Channel 
directly the Azores, cutting right angles the isobars where they are widest 
apart, and, possible, land party San Miguel observe the clouds and make 
kite soundings the very centre the barometric maximum. Then way 
Madeira namely, over that part the ocean where the antitrade 
always found height about 9000 feet, and try find its inclination, 
any, with the underlying sea surface, the vertical variations temperature and 
humidity the two currents, etc. Then proceeding south past the Cape Verde 
islands the doldrums, avoid the irregular conditions the Gulf Guinea, and 
west between 10° and the South American coast about right angles 
the south-east and south-west monsoons. You will then have totally un- 
known field explore, but think that you will find the surface winds becoming 
more and more easterly with increase height, without any sort antitrade, 
Teneriffe. this course with the thermal equator the vertical soundings will 
surely prove great interest. But will the greatest interest if, steam- 
ing against the south-east trade the latitude Ascension, you can find any 
evidence the antitrade. curious that Mauritius the upper winds are 
from west-north-west, against the south-east trade; summer when there are 
doldrums the Indian ocean, the south-east trades Mauritius and the south- 
west monsoon India form uninterrupted surface wind. Does there then exist 
different wind above the south-east trade the South Atlantic? the kites 
not reach far enough, and if, fear, there are cirrus observe, try 
send from Ascension island balloon without instruments—a true 
—to the greatest possible height and watch its drift. Jnly 
trade strongest, steady, and normal. From Ascension reture 
easterly track through the calms south-west Guinea aad then 


over more westerly track the Azores, and thence the 


map. find the upper trade wind this westerly part the northern 
barometric maximum. few weeks, you will able solve some 
the most important problems meteorology. 


THE GEOGRAPHICAL ASSOCIATION ANNUAL MEETING. 


Tue Annual Meeting the Geographical Association was held Friday, January 
The President, Mr. Douglas Freshfield, occupied the Chair. 

his presidential address Mr. Freshfield said that, since the Meeting had 
prospect more interesting matter, would confine himself making few 
remarks connected with suggested the Report. His first impulse facing 
such assemblage experts was apologize for the position occupied 
their Chairman. Fortunately for the Association, however, its success depended 
not much the merits its President the energy its other officers and 
members. regretted the unfortunate accident—a frost-bite Monte Rosa— 
which had deprived the Meeting the presence their Treasurer, Mr. Masterman, 
who had, however, continued take active part their affairs. 


No. 


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302 


THE GEOGRAPHICAL ASSOCIATION 


ANNUAL MEETING, 


The questions proposed with were these: What progress the 
Association what directions should concentrate its efforts the 
present juncture 

The Geographical Association began its corporate existence body militant, 
body struggling against national and professional apathy, which they recognized 
the dangers. those dangers the nation had since had some forcibleexamples. 
would premature say that had been awakened, but its slumbers had been 
least sensibly disturbed. the matters they had heart there was visible 
progress many directions. The School Geography Oxford, founded 
through the exertions the Royal Geographical Society, was flourishing. Mr. 
Bryce, most competent witness, had recently told him that had found the 
teachers full enthusiasm and the learners growing number. What con- 
trast,” wrote, “to our day!” The Vacation Course, held under the direction 
Messrs. Mackinder, Beazley, Dickson, and Herbertson, seemed have been most 
successful, and have been much appreciated the teachers who were able 
attend. The University London had quite lately recognized the aims the 
Association adding his name the Geographical Board Studies, and, the 
other end the educational ladder, the School Board London set geographical 
paper which ten thousand children sent replies, and for which two hundred 
and fifty pupils were commended. was still among the head-masters the great 
upper and middle-class public schools that they met with most apathy. 
another quarter, indirectly educational, they had made advances establishing 
more intimate relations with the heads the Ordnance Survey, which, under its 
present Director, Colonel Johnston, had carried out many the suggestions made 
ten years ago behalf the Royal Geographical Society himself. More had 
still done, particularly popularizing the maps better system dis- 
tribution and and they might hope that, under new Postmaster-General, 
the Post Office would longer stand the way, had the past, stultifying 
its offer sell the Ordnance maps insisting superfluous and vexatious 
formalities. 

The greatest made the Association the past twelve had, 
been the issue their new magazine, The Geographical 

the members which, from the nature things, could 

communication and union. Each number had proved real success every 
respect. trusted the magazine would prove increasing success, ventured 
express purely personal hope that writers would eschew far might 
possible all needless technicalities. There was sort scientific language that 
sounded very like jargon unscientific ears. would not, for instance, for worlds 
speak disrespectfully the equator, but might confess wish now and then 
put down consequential brook.” must remember that the business 
the Association was rub into the British public the practical importance geo- 
graphical intelligence, whether war politics, commerce colonization. 
war, they had the utterance that distinguished officer and surveyor, 
Sir Thomas Holdich, who, President the Geographical Section the Belfast 
meeting the British Association, made the following remarkable 
experience convinced him that the apathy shown many our fore- 
most generals and leaders the subject maps arose chiefly from well-founded 
doubt their own ability use them.” sentence quoted from the 
the date. wished they could feel sure that the lessons the late war had 
been taken heart those who were responsible for Army examinations. 

politics, what did they think gentlemen who called Heligoland “the Pearl 


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THE GEOGRAPHICAL ASSOCIATION ANNUAL MEETING. 303 


the Baltic,” Batum the key the Persian Gulf,” setting instruct 
the public the newspapers? His last words should take the form few 
practical suggestions. would remember that they were the words 
amateur, one who was outsider among experts; and they would take them 
only for what they might seem worth. 

believed teachers should, for the present any rate, aim keeping the 
practical side geography view, should insist its importance regard 
human life and national prosperity; that they should urge its claim, not much 
separate special subject, but aspect almost every subject already 
taught, and link between them. would not exaggerate the place 
Heimatkunde, that the imaginations young people are most 
easily stimulated what directly concerns humanity, would not, with beginners 
any rate, incline too heavily exclusively the side geography which 
touches geology, the study surface features—geomorphology was, under- 
stood, the new phrase. And the present moment would make one 
our first objects give British citizens clear understanding the territories 
oversea that constitute the British Empire. dense ignorance that 
regards emigration plunge into the unknown, only less formidable than death, 
was one the greatest hindrances the better distribution our race throughout 
the Empire. Such distribution the only alternative either overcrowding 
and misery home such limitation the increase population 
one the normal signs decadence country. The task ought not prove 
too difficult. Photography and the lantern could come marvellous manner 
the assistance the teacher. Slides, such those prepared Mr. Andrews 
and others, might more extensively used. one knew how such means 
the clergy had drilled into children’s minds the features Palestine and life 
the East. might take lesson from these pious enthusiasts, and the 
same for Canada, Australia, and the Cape. must now make place for one who 
could speak with authority regards Australia, Sir Cockburn, formerly Prime 
Minister South Australia, who had been kind enough respond their 
invitation, and would address the meeting. 

The Hon. Sir John Cockburn, K.C.M.G., M.D., then delivered address 
Australia. 

Mr. Andrews then exhibited number maps, views, and diagrams 
illustrative the Ordnance Survey said that the use maps showing 
land elevation must integral part any intelligent geographical teaching. 
For satisfactory delineation relief and steepness slope, maps such the 
series part the Chilterns prepared for the war game,” and showing contour 
lines feet, were necessary. The admirable hill-shaded maps combined with 
contour-lines issued the Ordnance Survey should enable teachers deal with 
the relief their own neighbourhood. slides maps and pictures the coast 
Cornwall the Land’s End peninsula, then showed the way treat typical 
area. 

Sir Joshua Fitch proposed, and Prof. Westlake Cambridge seconded, vote 
thanks Sir John Cockburn and Mr. Andrews. 

The Annual Report was then approved, and oflice-bearers elected for 1903. 

series typical sheets the Ordnance Survey maps was exhibited the 


meeting, and afterwards the map room Savile Row, where number 
teachers and others inspected it. 


» 


REVIEWS. 
EUROPE. 


Across Bisiker. With Illustrations and Maps, and Appendix 
Hill the Plants collected. London: Edward Arnold. 1902. 

number narratives travel Iceland Englishmen and Americans 
have appeared recent years, but, unfortunately, few contain anything geogra- 
phical scientific importance, and still fewer any new book, 
therefore, describing really new geographical examination some part which 
was little known before very welcome, and such work that Mr. 
The author made his especial task examine and survey the 
Kjalvegur country between and Central Iceland. 
Although this route annually used travellers, and has been described 
various scientific men,* Mr. Bisiker the first who has surveyed this region 
detail, and has published his book excellent map the central part 
Kjalvegur, which gives his work permanent value. hoped that the 
author will continue his explorations little-known districts Iceland else- 
where, which has well commenced. Work plentiful everywhere, but the 
trained labourers are few. party stayed some time the remarkable group 
warm springs Hveravellir, explored the neighbourhood, and ascended the 
volcano Strytur and other adjacent summits. and its surroundings 
were examined Olafsson 1752, and were fully described Ebenezer 
Henderson but since then the warm springs are much changed. From 
Hveravellir Mr. Bisiker made excursion Kerlingarfjéll, wild mountain 
group liparite, where great solfataras and fumaroles burst forth deep fissures 
amidst ice and snow; the sulphurous fumes have converted the rocks into soil 
various colours, and the whole scene has grand and fantastic character unmatched 
avy other part here Mr. Bisiker proceeded the pretty 
Lake which filled with fragments ice from two glaciers which 
extend into the water. these places are well and clearly described the 
author very agreeable style. After his researches Kjalvegur were ended, 
Mr. Bisiker travelled Reykjavik, the lava caves Surtshellir, Stykkishélmur 
and then coasting steamer round Cape Nord the north and 
east coast. therefore saw only small portion inhabited Iceland, and his 
route, except Kjalvegur, touched districts which have been repeatedly described 
travellers, had opportunities for fresh inquiries. 

The book contains many striking photographs which give good picture 
Icelandic scenery and manner travelling, and several are also geographical 
and geological interest. many English books travel Icelandic names are 


have myself, among others, described the geography and geology this region 
the (Copenhagen, 1889), pp. 10-29; and Ymer (Stockholm, 
1889), pp. 49-59, where also found special map the hot springs Hvera- 

‘Iceland; or, the Journal Residence that Island during the Years 1814 
and 1815.’ Henderson. Edinburgh. 1818. This work still every 
respect the best, most complete, and trustworthy narrative travel Iceland that 
exists English. 

Das Ausland (Stuttgart, 1889), No. pp. 161-164. 


7 
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REVIEWS. 305 


incorrectly spelled that whole course study necessary order recognize 
them, but Mr. Bisiker writes the names correctly rule, though can quote 
some exceptions which should corrected new edition. The following are 
the most important errors: for Hoff for Hofs 
for etc. The descriptions the traveller’s experiences are written 
lively and entertaining manner, and but few errors can found. The following, 
however, should corrected new edition. 109 said the new 
road from Thingvellir Reykjavik that the only one any length all 
Iceland, for miles long.” not correct, for the recently made road 
from Reykjavik the southern lowland over Hellisheidi has length more than 
miles. 114 the author says that Reykjavik has 4000 inhabitants, whereas, 
according the last census, has 7500. the same place says that almost 
all the business men Reykjavik are Danes, but, fact, the majority trades- 
men Reykjavik and other places Iceland are natives,* and there are hardly 
more than five six Danish families Reykjavik and perhaps ten twelve 
the whole island. All the officials Iceland are exception 
not one isa Dane. The cathedral Reykjavik not built wood, but brick. 

the end the book find list Hill, the plants collected 
during tours Iceland and the islands, with some interesting notices the 
vegetation Kjalvegur. The plants named have, indeed, been all found before 
these districts, with the exception Ophioglossim vulgatum from Hveravellir 
this plant has been previously reported from only two places Iceland—Gunna 
Reykjanes and Bjarnarflag Myvatn. late years the plant-geography Ice- 
land bas received much more attention than previously, especially from the Ice- 
botanists Helgi Jonsson and Stefan Stefansson, who have published many 
articles their investigations. Helgi Jonsson has also made especial examinations 
alga vegetation, while fungi, mosses, and lichens have been the object investi- 
gations the Danish botanists, Rostrup and Chr. 

THORODDSEN. 


ASIA. 


Armand Colin. 1903. 

spite its unpretentious appearance, this work serious value, and 
does not present the mere impressions tourist like the greater number 
modern books Japan. The author, formerly professor the Imperial University 
Tokyo, claims have spent over three years the study, first hand, the 
social and economic conditions the country, during journeys made through the 
length and breadth it, which gave him the opportunity mixing intimately 
the inner life the people. His views Japanese questions are thus deserving 
careful attention, even though they may not always meet with general accept- 
ance. The separate fully the constitution, politics, administration, 
industries, commerce, etc., the country, the conclusion being supported 
array statistics, which certainly seem justify them many The 


According official statistics there were Reykjavik, 1899, traders, 
whom were Icelanders, and 200 business houses the whole island, which 156 
were owned natives, while the remaining were the hands Danes, Englishmen, 
and Norwegians. 


306 


writer takes throughout unusually pessimistic view Japan under modern 
conditions, laying much stress the poverty the country, evidenced the 
scarcity capital, the want thrift the part the people, the drain caused 
the constant excess imports over forth. regards the 
want thrift, which considers proved the smallness the deposits per head 
the savings banks compared with the figures for European countries, this 
surely not quite fair conclusion, the smallness the deposits would 
necessary result the poverty which says much. his general verdict 
the state the country, adopts the view recently expressed native 
writer, that, spite the apparently progressive character the Japanese, China 
—that say, the mass the people distinguished from the government—is 
reality the more advanced. short, considers that the so-called modern 
advance Japan, only the worst parts Western civilization which have 
been adopted. should mentioned that Dr. Dumolard has been hitherto 
known writer under the pseudonym Far East.” 


Across Coveted Lands; or, journey from Flushing (Holland) Caleutta, Overland.’ 
Henry Savage Landor. Two vols. London: 1902. 

Although nominally description the whole journey from Flushing 
Calcutta, these volumes are mainly devoted the Persian section the route— 
the coveted lands the title, somewhat misleading expression, for, them- 
selves least, the countries described offer little stimulate the covetousness 
neighbouring Powers. Mr. Landor entered Persia way Baku and Resht, and 
from the capital took the route vid Isfahan and Yezd Kerman. From Kerman 
went north, crossing the great Lut desert Birjand, and thence following the 
now well-known route through Sistan and northern Baluchistan Quetta. 
does not, course, claim have brought back any striking observations from 
strictly geographical point view, for country which been frequently 
traversed Persia, there little now left for amateur traveller accomplish 
this has, however, done some service improving the 
popular knowledge the country, its people and antiquities, many the photo- 
graphs with which the book liberally provided being decided help this 
direction. Mr. Landor crossed the Lut desert at, probably, its most inhospitable 
part, and, like the few travellers who had preceded him, and his men suffered 
considerably from thirst and heat, though the opposite extreme was often experi- 
enced night. His journey, however, was not made, like that Colonel Stewart 
(Proc. R.G.S., 1886, 141), the worst season the year. seems have 
been unfortunate his camels, who are described timid, and unhappy when 
going down hill whereas some travellers have expressed their astonishment 
the composure these animals when traversing the most desperately steep 
mountain paths (cf. General Haig’s Journey through Yemen,” 1887, 
483). Much said the ruins met with various parts, especially those 
Zaidan Sistan, which considerable number illustrations are given. Mr. 
Landor perhaps disposed exaggerate the importance these ruins, which are 
not very imposing except for the distance over which they are spread. Major 
Sykes has pointed out, they probably, for the most part, represent villages which 
lined the banks irrigation canal, and there nothing very remarkable 
the congregation the population this manner, when consider their depen- 
dence artificial water-supply this generally arid region. The author gives 


The Lut means interminable expanse sand, but traversed 
frequent ranges hills, 


if 
1 
7 
7 
7 
7 
7 


307 


his views freely questions trade and politics, and times does not stint 
his criticism all and sundry who have either written travelled the 
country. addition the photographs, there are some clever sketches the 
author’s own hand, and not always easy distinguish the two first sight, 


especially as, some cases, certain amount manipulation the photographs 
has been necessary secure good prints. 


AFRICA. 
MADAGASCAR AND THE 


Physique, Naturelle Politique Madagascar: Livre Premier, L’Origine 
des Hachette Paris. 1901. 

Since the French occupation the great island Malagasy studies have naturally 
received fresh impulse, and pleasant find the veteran pioneer, Alfred 
Grandidier, still taking the lead with new instalment his classical work the 
geography and natural history Madagascar, and the origin and ethnical 
relations its inhabitants. apology perhaps due the learned author for 
unavoidable delay directing our readers’ attention this new section the 
work—that devoted Ethnography—a first part which was issued Messrs. 
the previous publications, with almost embarrassing abundance notes 
and notes the notes, often overflowing into two three pages, and leaving but 
few lines the actual text each.* But was evidently found impossible 
modify fusion this somewhat awkward arrangement the subject matter, and 
the serious student will still grateful for even apparent superfluity valuable 
data drawn from the most diverse and out-of-the-way oriental and European 
sources. 

Grandidier’s well-known views the constituent elements the exceed- 
ingly mixed Malagasy populations remain virtually unchanged, nor, indeed, 
has later research brought anything light requiring him modify the conclu- 
sions had already advanced the historical section his work issued 
some twenty years ago. the racial diversity and unity speech pre- 
valent throughout the island, regards the bulk the natives amalgam, 
not the historical Malays and African negroes, but the Oceanic Mongols (proto- 
Malays) and Oceanic Negroes (Melanesians), and traces the common speech, not 
so-called Malayo-Polynesian,” but Melanesian source. langue Mal- 
gache existait certainement, telle qu’elle est aujourd’hui, longtemps avant venue 
des Malais, qui sont les directs des Andriana nobles [the 
so-called Hovas], n’est pas douteux qu’elle été apportée par les négres indo- 
dont les immigrations successives ont peuplé Madagascar (p. 11). 
This substantial agreement with the views held Man, Past and 
Present,’ the chief difference being that bring the negro element, not from Me- 
lanesia, but mainly from Africa. must, the same time, admitted that our 
author’s theory, could upheld, would long way explain the astonish- 
ing prevalence language Oceanic type amid the mixed Mongolo-Negroid 
Malagasy populations. The difficulties, however, which prevent general accept- 
ance this theory seem unsurmountable. 


several pages (79, 93, 101, there are only two lines actual text, and 


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308 REVIEWS. 


another, and that most important point, glad find myself com- 
plete accord with Grandidier. has reference the Semitic immigrations and 
settlements, which does not limit with most authorities late (post-Koranic) 
times, but traces back the days David and Solomon, and even earlier 
Idumean Jews from the Red sea. présence colonie iduméenne Madagas- 
car n’a pas lieu nous surprendre, car sait que dés plus hauté antiquité les 
Arabes Yemen [Himyarites] ont fréquenté orientale d’Afrique aussi loin 
moins que Sofala, est certain que des Comores 
Madagascar ont recu visite leurs boutres” (p. 96). This statement, having 
such direct bearing the question the gold Ophir,” all the more valu- 
able, since made without any reference that problem, which nowhere 
discussed our author. 

The other racial elements discovered him amid the present heterogeneous 
populations the island are the Persians and later (Muhammadan) Arabs, the East 
Indians, Japanese, Chinese, Africans, and Europeans. But although treated with 
exhaustive learning, none these intruders were numerous enough perceptibly 
influence the physique culture the natives, and may regarded des 
quantités négligeables the general discussion Malagasy ethnography. 

Another work the present condition the island claims special attention, 
thanks both the great variety and trustworthiness its contents. consists 
series carefully prepared monographs the geography, geology, biology, 
climate, and European colonization Madagascar, contributed MM. Guillaume 
Grandidier (son Alfred Grandidier), Blanchard, Boule, Marre, and 
other accepted authorities. All these subjects have already been ably treated 
Messrs. Sibree, Dahl, Richardson, and other English writers, both the Antana- 
narivo Annual and separate works, that detailed account the French 
publication may here dispensed with. Special mention challenged 
Boule’s exceptionably able geological paper, where the land connections the island 
with Africa and India, first Triassic and again somewhat early Tertiary times, 
clearly set forth. parait bien certain, Madagascar des 
relations étroites fois avec avec pendant Trias. 
saurait expliquer autrement les ressemblances vraiment extraordinaires que 
nous avons constatées entre les animaux terrestres les plantes fossiles des deux 
continents que sépare aujourd’hui toute Indien.... Une 
nouvelle jonction aprés les premiers temps tertiaires, car non-seulement 
parait étre dépourvue des marins plus récents que mais encore 

faut expliquer passage des Mammiféres des Lému- 
riens qui peuvent étre que les descendants des Lémuriens nos gisements 
tertiaires (p. 62). 

Boer and other intending immigrants would well advised consult the 
section devoted the climate and economic prospects the island. 


‘Madagascar. Essai Géographie Physique.’ Par Gautier. Maps and 
trations. Paris: 1902. 

This work not, its title would lead expect, restricted wholly the 
physical geography the great African island, for good third devoted 
account the inhabitants, their manners and customs, and other branches 
anthropogeography. is, however, the larger portion dealing with the physical 
structure and surface features that the main importance the book lies, and from 
this point view the most satisfactory account the island that has yet 
appeared. Masterly have been the sketches its major features supplied 


— 
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REVIEWS. 309 


various scientific papers Grandidier, have not yet had from the hand 
the veteran explorer the detailed treatment that here attempted Gautier, 
who the mean time particularly well qualified for the task, the extent 
his own itineraries Madagascar, and his careful study all that has been written 
others. His work, therefore, not only presents full summary existing 
knowledge, but possesses original value from his ability test and amplify the 
conclusions others the results his own researches. His views may not, 
perhaps, always accepted, but they least merit careful attention rational 
explanations the phenomena observed. The excellent physical maps are 
themselves valuable aids knowledge Madagascan geography. 

the first chapter, which discusses the question Lemuria,” the author does 
not venture pronounce definitely between the rival theories that have been 
brought forward, but evidently inclined give the greater weight the 
views Wallace, and think that the ancient communication with India and the 
East was rather disconnected land masses than continuous continent.* The 
next three chapters describe the geological features, beginning—somewhat strangely, 
except for the world-wide importance such action—with the recent manifestations 
volcanic activity. with the structural orography, discussed the fifth 
chapter, that are more nearly concerned here, but attention may drawn 
the general conclusions regarding past geological history sketched 90. 
author shows that the sedimentary strata which abut the great gneissic plateau 
the west, represent four successive stages the retreat the sea from that 
plateau, from Triassic modern times. The formations, still the main horizontal, 
terminate true escarpments well marked those the Paris basin, though 
their real character has not hitherto been recognized. regards the general 
morphology the surface, Gautier regards the great gneiss plateau horst, all 
sides which the adjoining parts the crust have sunk many hundred feet. Though 
generally called plateau, the very irregular, but series longitudinal 
folds parallel the axis the island can distinguished, and this circumstance 
due the sudden change from even line broken contour observable when 
the wall the plateau leaves its north and south direction. transverse series 
feature-lines exists also, though its presence was long overlooked. There are, 
fact, three great systems transverse valleys, which have had most important 
influence the history the island. The western sedimentary formations owe 
their present relief almost entirely erosion, and here the characteristic lines run 
east and west, shown the outline the coasts. Gautier, however, 
ascribes some the features here, too, tectonic causes, supposing that series 
transverse faults, which have yet precise knowledge, have resulted 
differential sinking the crust parts this The effects erosion are 
discussed chap. vii. (chapter vi. being devoted careful consideration the 
distinct climatic regions the island), prominence being given the great Triassic 
valley running from north south, the importance which Gautier first 
called attention some ten years ago. 

brief notice must suffice for the remaining contents the volume, though 
their interest means lessens proceed. The distinct regions (due 
differences climate) into which the island divided from the point view 
its flora are sketched the eighth chapter, well the subordinate variaticns 
due differences soil, elevation, etc. noteworthy fact that the compara- 
tively luxuriant vegetation the east due solely the more plentiful rainfall, 


The argument based the discovery Cretaceous fossils the east coast 
Madagascar does not, however, tell against the idea still earlier connection. 


‘ 


310 REVIEWS. 


for the covering humus overlying the unfertile laterite often very scanty. 
instructive study the coasts the island next given, their varying character- 
istics, and the influence which these, well the direction which they face, 
have had the history, being well brought out. discussing the origin the 
Malagasy, Gautier adopts Grandidier’s views their Melanesian affinities, 
but comes decision respecting the Hovas (Merinas), whose language thinks 
has been adopted from the conquered Malagasy. Whether Malay not, their 
conquest was only one among many similar episodes, and considers their pre- 
dominant position the result the special character the district which 
they settled. 


‘South Africa and its Future.’ Edited Louis Creswicke. London and Edinburgh 
Jack. 1903. 


There much this volume which may help the general reader form some 
estimate the prospects and resources South Africa, question which more 
than any other engages the attention the public the present time. consists 
series articles different contributors the special branches the general 
subject, including the questions emigration, mining, agriculture, commerce, and 
the like. The greater number the contributors write decidedly optimistic 
spirit, and many will, doubt, consider that they have left too much out view 
the inevitable difficulties the way future development. This, however, 
fault—if such be—on the right side, for the mere fact that hopeful view 
shown possible must some extent help progress. The importance 
properly organized system emigration forcibly shown the Duke 
Argyll, who points the almost inexplicable lack effort this direction the 
past, and the especial need for the sending out white women South 
the chapter Mining elaborate calculation made the probable total 
value the exploitable gold deposits, which put the high figure some 
2800 millions, while the opinion expressed that the new conditions will act 
strongly favour the industry. Little attention paid this chapter 
the effect such development the prosperity the community large, 
the subject being considered rather from the special point view the industry 
itself. The chapter the agricultural outlook, the editor, deals with possi- 
bilities which the benefit the community less open question, 
and here, too, extremely sanguine view taken, which will certainly not 
accepted final all quarters. Mr. Creswicke has great faith the possibilities 
irrigation, which considers may add acres the cultivated area, 
addition possible extra 10,000,000 acres dependent rainfall only. Mr. 
Bleloch’s chapter railways contains some useful statistics, though the accom- 
panying map not quite date. Mr. Eglinton’s contribution commercial 
prospects likewise written optimistic vein, but the arguments occasionally 
appear somewhat superficial. What valid conclusion, can derived from the 
strange supposition that the total value the imports from Great Britain, divided 
the total number the black population, gives indication the actual, 
even possible, purchases per head such population, the same figure divided 
the number whites being also taken give the amount spent each white 
man? If, however, may take even approximately correct the estimate that 
five years’ time the mining industry alone will involve the annual expenditure 
£50,000,000 stores, machinery, wages, etc., the prospective advantages the 
manufacturers this country, provided they show themselves equal the occasion, 
must certainly beyond dispute. 


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311 


MATHEMATICAL GEOGRAPHY, 

the North Pole Star, Lat. 38° Lat. for use until the year 
1915.’ Sidney Roberts (Dominion and Provincial Land Surveyor). Victoria, 
Thos. Cusack. April, $2. 

the pole-star not situated exactly over the North Pole, direct line 
with the Earth’s axis rotation, whenever used for the determination 
latitude azimuth, certain corrections have made, which add considerably 
the work computation. regards latitude, the necessary corrections are given 
the Nautical Almanac, and are readily applied the observed altitude; but the 
surveyor who wishes mark off accurately the north and south line means 
the star has hitherto had through fair amount figuring before can 
so, has hand some table the azimuths the star for certain hour angles 
and latitudes, such that given the French ‘Connaissance des Temps.’ This 
table, however, besides other disadvantages, only correct for one year, and not 
generally accessible. Realizing these facts, Mr. Roberts, Dominion and 
Provincial land surveyor British Columbia, four years ago published table 
which gave the azimuths the pole-star certain intervals time for the years 
1899 and 1900, for use between lats. 48° and N., which proved consider- 
able service. has now issued second edition, which great improvement 
upon the former, not only from the fact that the limit latitude has been 
extended that the table can used between lats. and 55° but 
account its being available for considerable number years—until 1915. 
The method which this latter advantage has been secured interesting and 
ingenious. First table azimuths the star has been computed for different 
hour angles and every degree latitude with assumed polar distance 
11’ and then there are two tables from which corrections are obtained 
applied the quantity taken from this general table, due the difference 
between the assumed polar distance 11’ 40”, and that given the Nautical 
Almanac for the date. The first these latter tables gives the correction 
azimuth for each degree latitude for hour angle and then with 
the quantity thus obtained the second table entered, and the required correction 
found for the hour angle the star the time observation, and applied the 
azimuth taken from the table computed with polar distance 

The whole process does not take long, and after the hour angle the pole- 
star has been computed, surveyor can, very few moments, put his instrument 
the true meridian with fair amount accuracy, although for astronomical 
work, such the determination longitude moon culminating stars, must 
only considered first approximation, and the more exact methods, such 
high and low stars, should finally employed. The angles are given the 
nearest tenth minute arc instead seconds, 

can doubt that Mr. Roberts’ tables will found service 
surveyors Canada and the United States, for whose use they have been specially 
prepared and, indeed, they could often used with advantage any part the 
world included within the stated parallels latitude. 


OCEANOGRAPHY. 


Tur OckANOGRAPHY OF THE “ VALDIVIA,” 


Wissenschaftliche Ergebnisse der Deutschen auf dem Dampfer 
Valdivia, Auftrage des Reichsamtes des Innern herausgegeben 


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312 REVIEWS. 


von Carl Chun. Erster Band. Oceanographie und Maritime Meteorologie. 
Auftrage des Reichs-Marine-Amtes bearbeitet yon Dr. Gerhard Schott. Jena: 
Gustaf Fischer. 1902. Text and Atlas. 


All concerned the production these splendid volumes deserve credit for the 
result their labours. Dr. Schott, who was the oceanographer, and later also the 
meteorologist, the expedition board the Valdivia, has had the good fortune 
being charged with the discussion the data collected, and with seeing 
printed spacious page giving full scope for the most luxurious tables and 
diagrams. has been able produce series maps showing the distribution 
each element the observations, which the letterpress subsidiary impor- 
tance. These maps utilize the work the Valdivia only supplement and correct 
previously ascertained data, hence they really give epitome existing know- 
ledge regarding the oceanography the Atlantic and Indian and they 
are all drawn equivalent area projection, they are available for the calculation 
relative areas direct measurement. 

The cruise the Valdivia has been described this Journal (vol. xii. 494, 
569; xiii. 297, 336, 640), and comprehensive preliminary paper Dr. Schott 
his department the work has also appeared (vol. xiv. 518), that un- 
necessary recapitulate the incidents the voyage, its general results. 
are presented here with detailed account the instrumental and mechanical 
equipment the ship for cceanographical followed clearly subdivided 
chapters the Depths, Temperature, Salinity, etc., and Currents the seas that 
were traversed, and also the Meteorology the cruise, these chapters supply- 
ing not only results, but also the actual observations set out full, and expressed 
curves and profiles well figures. thus possible see what the 
Valdivia did each department, and how far ker work adds the sum know- 
ledge. 

The 186 deep-sea soundings are placed map which all other accessible 
data had been inserted metres the nearest hundred. The isobaths were then 
drawn yield what really new bathymetrical chart the whole Atlantic 
and Indian oceans. The only part left blank for want data the region east 
South Georgia, where the Antarctic and Scotia are now work. Perhaps the 
most interesting feature added the Atlantic the Valdivia bank the 
ridge (as Schott terms it), which gives new definiteness the separation between 
the West African and the South African depressions, the latter itself also rendered 
far more definite the soundings her way Bouvet island. the 
Southern ocean the great extension the deep sea was important gain; but 
there use present speculating the configuration that region, the 
Gauss and Discovery have already added and modified the results. 
may possibly that the Marion and Crozet islands will found connected 
ridge, least less deep part the ocean. Dr. Schott believes that 
the great Indian-Antarctic basin, discovered the Valdivia, indicates extension 
very deep water far within the antarctic circle. Gauss will certainly throw 
light this point. The mean depth the South Indian ocean, far can 
at, twice great Karstens estimated 1894. Considerable 
additions have been made our knowledge the detailed configuration the 
Indian ocean, the structure which, once believed very simple and uniform, 
gradually being shown extremely varied and complex. 

Many plates the atlas are devoted the mapping the temperature the 
water, and those form, perhaps, its most important part. one turns over shect 
after sheet one realizes more and more fully how the voyage the Valdivia has 
furnished opportunity for increasing the data oceanography. 


REVIEWS. 313 


Besides map mean surface isotherms the two oceans, there are isothermal 
maps for the depths 50, 100, 150, 200, 400, 600 and 800 metres. Similar maps 
are familiar readers Dr. discussion oceanic circulation the 
Challenger Reports; but these were for different intervals depth, and Dr. Schott 
has drawn his maps novo from the original material. would interesting 
compare the two sets maps and discuss the necessity duplicating vast 
mass recent work; but just here that the British Isles feel the 
effects our scientific isolation. cling our fathoms and our Fahrenheit 
degrees because they are familiar us, and try justify the attitude point- 
ing out certain inherent elements superiority they possess over meters and Centi- 
grade degrees. reaching the attention continental men science 
concerned, might well write Gaelic; and Dr. Schott, rather than attempt 
interpret the existing maps, has translated all the original temperatures and depths 
the continental standards and mapped them afresh. the present case 
the diversity notations far greater barrier than the diversity languages) 
the more deplored because the author gives flat denial some the 
conclusions which Dr. Buchan believed had fully established, and looked upon 
great importance. Dr. Schott also complains that the 1000 temperature 
observations the German ship Gazelle were not utilized preparing the 
Challenger charts. any case, and for whatever reason, are confronted with 
the fact that great piece scientific work has been done twice over. Careful 
comparison will doubtless reveal more confirmation than contradiction the 
results each. 

There are also maps showing the position depth several the more im- 
portant isotherms over the oceans, and detailed study the upwelling deep 
water along various parts the African coast, which seems remarkably well 
done. note, the way, with some satisfaction that Dr. Schott cannot find 
two German words which shall distinguish between water different origin homo- 
geneously mixed together and water different origin flowing separate though 
contiguous and inter-crossing streams. rarely that the English language 
yields readier terms for confluent phenomena than German can supply, but 
this case could least distinguish the waters mixed one case and inter- 
mingled the 

The temperature data are also expressed curves and profiles, some which 
are very great interest. Those the far south, where the alternate layers 
warmer and colder water characteristic the Antarctic regions appear, will 
attract particular attention. from the appearance the curves change 
temperature with depth, the observations made board the Valdivia seem 
have been satisfactory accuracy. 

applying his results the question the cause oceanic circulation, 
Dr. Schott finds that the movement the surface the sea the cause the move- 
ments all depths, for Varenius, with his mastery principles and his terseness 
expression, put centuries ago, pars movetur, totus oceanus movetur. 

There are many problems touched this volume and atlas which 
would like refer. Amongst them may note the discussion the influence 
exercised the respective oceans from the outflow the Mediterranean and the 
Red sea, and the cooling influence exercised the Antarctic seas the waters 
all the oceans, Space, however, forbids further comment, nor will permit 
more than mention the beautiful maps salinity and density, and the 
discussion the meteorological observations. must end began, 
congratulating Dr. Schott the way which has taken advantage his 
opportunities work afloat and study ashore, and the admirable result 


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REVIEWS. 


HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY. 
THe 


Handy Classical Maps.’ 
London: Murray. 1s. wet. 


EMPIRE. 
Edited 


Roman 


Grundy. 


The plan these maps, with their clear printing and distinction epochs, 
seems excellent. One map, with relief distinguished tints, 
placed side side with another untinted, except along the frontier lines the 
Empire. small scale equal clearness probably could not have been attained 
otherwise. have printed one map tissue paper, and have allowed 
fall precisely upon the other, would have been even better, had durability not had 
considered. complete index added. One cannot help noticing, how- 
ever, considerable unevenness the accurate delineation detail the upper 
map. small projection this might disregarded, were not that 
minute accuracy evidently aimed certain parts. must therefore ask 
why, the three high points Crete are all specially shaded, the great Mesaorea 
plain Cyprus tinted uniformly over 600 feet? Why broad belt green 
runs all round the north and west Asia Minor, often reality the coast 
fringed high ranges? Why, among mountains rising over 3000 feet, there 
indication Taygetus, the range, the higher points the lesser 
islands (which, indeed, all appear under 600 feet)? points over 
9000 feet, Olympus, the Rila Liubotrn, the Van volcanoes, and Sahend 
not appear? And why, the other hand, Hermon and the inner range Midian 
appear the highest category regard the lower map, there nothing 
criticize any importance. the wrong side the Bahr 
Yusuf, the upper map also. suppose that the editor’s plan not 
take account additions the Empire after 100 and that for this reason 


Dacia and the trans-Euphratean conquests Trajan are not included within the 


ATLAS. 
New Students’ Atlas English Emil Reich. 
London and New York. 


Macmillan Co., 


This series what Dr. Reich calls plastic maps,” with notes and index, 
for the use students all ages. The main idea suggest the movement 
events and their dynamic nature coloured lines and arrows—in itself admirable 
idea, and worked out here fully consistent with clearness such small 
scale. But these maps contain hill-work suggestion contours, they are 
hardly themselves express history terms geography. Dr. 

idea, fact, ought further applied maps larger scale, and, 
possible, relief models. For the present instalment, however, are duly 
thankful. The maps the great majority cases show military movements—that 
majority rather large for series based avowedly Green’s 
but there are also others showing the progress enclosure and discovery, the dis- 
tribution fiefs and abbeys. might have expected one least showing the 


growth towns, and would have exchanged for the three illustrative British 
genius. one may fairly question the standard adopted determine that 
rare quality. Dr. Reich relies the Dictionary National Biography,’ 


Sir Stephen and Mr. Sidney Lee, very good authorities indeed, but not 
conclusive. 


314 


REVIEWS. 


berichte zur den Neudruck seiner von 

Von Franz Schulze. Strassburg: 1902. 

The voyage India Springer (by some also written Sprenger 
special interest, the first undertaken Germans after the sea-route had been 
opened Vasco Gama. Before 1505 the merchants Italy had already 
gained entry into the new field, but was only after the despatch Lisbon, 
the Welsers Augsburg, their agents Simon Seitz and Lucas Rem 1503 
and 1504, that similar privileges were conceded the Germans. result 
the agreement concluded Rem 1504, three ships were fitted out the 
merchant princes Germany, and their sailing with the fleet d’Almeida 
1505, two German factors, Hans Mayr and Springer, went out them. 
Mayr wrote account the voyage, which has remained manuscript, but 
Springer’s work was printed, though each the three editions extremely rare. 
has long been felt that the work was worthy reprint, and this has now 
been supplied, facsimile, the work quoted above. 

This work, however, much more than mere re-issue Springer’s text and 
illustrations, for the editorial matter forms three-quarters the whole, and includes 
careful studies Springer’s life-history (so far known), the circumstances 
under which the work was published, its contents, and the position 
assigned the author original contributor knowledge. some his 
conclusions, the editor merely follows Harrisse and others, but other doubtful 
questions attempts independent solution. careful inquiries most 
the great libraries the world, has come the conclusion that only four copies 
the larger German edition (the one now reprinted) exist the present day, and 
one these imperfect. There Latin version, which manuscript has 
lately been found the University Library Giessen, having previously been 
known only from printed copy put in, make-weight, the second volume 
the Voyage Littéraire deux Religieux Bénédictines’ (Marténe and Durand), 
published Paris 1724. Herr Schulze gives reasons for thinking that this was 
printed from the actual manuscript now Giessen, blanks have been left 
passages where the writing this illegible. thinks that this Latin version 
was merely report Springer’s employers, which was subsequently published 
German more popular form, first explanatory text the seven woodcuts 
the Augsburg engraver, Burgkmair (the smaller German edition), and after- 
wards more full, with thirteen woodcuts, the larger German edition. Herr 
Schulze makes careful analysis the showing what large amount 
information the countries visited (including the African coasts), supplied 

Springer, who, though not educated man, was intelligent and capable 
observer. also undertakes detailed comparison with other works from which, 
conceivably, Springer might have borrowed his information, especially the German 
translation, Ruchamer, the rare Italian collection, Paesi novamente retrovati 
The result, his opinion, show that the agreements bear 


small proportion the differences, that there valid reason doubt 
the originality Springer’s work. 


Herr Schulze shows that the balance evidence favour Springer the 
correct form, 


quoting the title this, omits the last word, and fails 
make sense. The full title is, ‘Paesi novamente retrovati Novo Mondo Aberico 
Vesputio Florentino intitulato.’ 


31 


316 


THE MONTHLY RECORD. 
EUROPE. 


Altitude Trees the Cairngorm Mountains.—In paper read before 
the Andersonian Naturalists’ Society Glasgow November last, and printed 
the Cairngorm Club Journal, vol. iv. No. 20, January, 1903, Mr. Boyd Watt 
gives some notes the altitudes above the sea reached various species trees 
the Cairngorm mountains. Mr. Watt’s own observations have been made 
principally the forests Abernethy and Rothiemurchus, the northern side 
the range, and various glens the Braemar district, the south; but also 
embodies observations made his behalf Tomintoul, east Abernethy. The 
height which the Scotch pines die out seems about 1500 feet, though 
both these pines and larches reach nearly the summit Creag Choinnich 
Braemar (1764 feet). birch the only other tree which attains this altitude, 
and this seems hold its own better than the Scotch pine. Above 1500 feet, 
the Braemar birch woods, the trees, though well proportioned, are often not more 
than feet height. the Morrone wood—a typical birch one, with under- 
growth heather, juniper, and bracken, though Scotch pines appear places— 
there are occasional aspens 1500 feet. Mr. Watt gives list other trees 
found above 1100 feet (the aititude Tomintoul 1160), from which appears 
that the lime, sycamore, laburnum, wild cherry, ash, elm, alder, hazel, and least 
two willows occur between 1100 and 1200 feet, while the mountain ash, hawthorn, 
horse-chestnut, and beech reach least 1100. Most the last named are, 
course, introduced. 


The Snow-line Norway.—Norway rightly called snowy land. the 
south snow covers the ground for only two three weeks, but further north 
remains much longer, two three months, and half the year. 
has been reckoned that per cent. Norway covered with permanent snow, 
but this certainly too high estimate. According Helland, fully 5000 
kilometres (1430 square miles) are buried snow throughout the year, which 
the accounts for 330 square miles, or, with the closely adjacent glaciers, 
483 square miles, while the Folgefond, Svartisen, Aalfotbre and Frostisen have 
aggregate area somewhat less than this. The remainder the permanent snow 
scattered over the country small patches. Dr. Hansen (Norske Geogr. 
Aarbog, 1901-2) has compiled map snow-lines, taking limit the level 
which glaciers under the most favourable topographical conditions descend 
average. ‘These lines show clearly that the snow-line thus defined rises consider- 
ably towards the The snow-line contours run the whole parallel the 
coast—south-south-west north-north-east—and are not determined the lati- 
tude. Glaciers first appear distance miles from the coast, and here 
end height 600 metres (1970 feet). The other contours run nearly parallel 
this till height 1800 metres (2600 feet) reached the country between 
Jotunheim and Rondene. Where the large fiords penetrate into the land the 
contours are thrown eastwards. comparison these contours with tempera- 
ture chart shows that the snow-line stands direct relation the mean annual 
temperature, and that where the winter mildest, along the coast, the snow-line 
lowest. ‘The summer heat, however, has marked effect the height the 
snow-line. precipitation reaches maximum axis lying about miles 
from the coast, and amounts about inches south Stad, and inches and over 
Nordland. the whole the rainfall contours accord with those permanent 
snow, the snow-line lying highest over the drier sile country. 


4 


THE MONTHLY RECORD. 


317 


Certain exceptiuns, however, may noticed, and must also remembered that 
heavy summer rains are very effective washing away snow. The height the 
snow-line seems, then, depend the summer heat, which melts the covering 
snow, and the winter rains and snow. lower near the coast where 
Atlantic cyclones with heavy winter precipitation prevail, and high the interior 
where the winter dry and falls summer. 

The Highest Mountain Sweden.— Until recently little was known the 
elevation the country Swedish Lapland, and until the end the seventies the 
Sulitelma group was considered the highest elevation Sweden. 
however, the Sarjetjakko was ascended Bucht and its height, measured two 
was found 6980 feet, 804 feet greater than that Sulitelma. 
Afterwards another claimant was for the honour being the highest 
summit, the Kebnekaise, but the measurements taken were not accurate enough 
the question. 1896 Prof. Roséa spent two weeks the neighbour- 
hood, when, however, the atmospheric conditions were unfavourable and the highest 
point the rarely visible. was able complete his survey 
1902, when fully determined the height and position the mountain. His 
Stuor Niak, These and lesser heights, given No. 1902, are 
marked the topographical map Norrbotten, the scale 200,000. 

Canals proposed the Limburg coalfields into 
direct water-communication with the Schelde, the scheme being rectify the 
course the and Nethe, connection being made with the latter river and 
the Campine considered probable that, order carry out this plan 
effectually, will necessary deflect the course the Rupel for about miles 
between and its meeting with the Schelde, and soon this definitely 
settled, junction will effected between the Rupel and the enlarged Willebroeck 
canal, which connects Malines, and Antwerp. Another canal under con- 
sideration connect the small town Selzaete with point the Schelde 
some miles atove Antwerp. This would bring Antwerp and Ghent into 


navigable communication, the latter being already connected with Selzaete the 
Terneuzen canal. 


ASIA. 
The Morphology the Coasts the Sea Aral.—Describing the 


coasts the lake the Annuaire Russie, vol. Nos. 
and Mr. berg divides them into four types—jagged, regular, and embayed 
coasts (the glatte, and and alluvial coasts 
the mouths rivers. the first type belongs the northern coast from 
tamak bay. divided the peninsulas Kulandi, Karatyup, 
and Kuk Ternak into five gulfs considerable breadth, where depths 
nearly 100 feet were sounded, while the middle the sea depth over feet 
was found. steep northern bank, 490 feet above the water, consists hori- 
zontal strata Lower Tertiary age. They are not dislocated any great degree 
except the southern shore the Kulandi peninsula. types coast 
also particular parts, and the effect abrasion clearly marked the 
friable argillaceous rocks, considerable masses which fall into the sea and form 
submarine terraces which would shelter the coast from further attacks, were 
not for the rise the level the water, which late has amounted about 
inches annually. Owiog the dryness the climate there hardly any 
rain, and the cliffs present perpendicular front the water. The 
surf also its work abrasion the mantle ice which lies the 


No. 


i 


318 THE MONTHLY RECORD. 


northern coast from the middle December the ead April, attaining 
severe winters thickness feet. When breaks and carried along 
the current, cuts like saw into the face the cliffs. The western shore 
extends for distance 150 miles along the steep margin the Ust-urt plateau, 
with height 520 feet. Along this stretch contains not one bay any 
depth—only large-scale map are any sinuosities perceptible—and not single 
island lies off the coast. the foot the declivity lies the deepest hollow the 
Sea Aral, with depths-of over 100 feet and maximum 223 (see map 
vol. xix. No. banks are composed marls and limestones the 
middle and lower Sarmatian series. eastern shore south the mouth 
the Sir Daria sandy, and hard rock nowhere visible. The coast-line broken 
numerous small and shallow inlets, mile less length, while the largest, 
the Bik-tau, has length miles and breadth The low eastern coast 
the bed the old Aralo-Caspian sea modified eolian agents. studded 
with shallow basins with smooth clayey bottoms and wind-blown 
ridges enclosing hollows. When the sea rises, now doing, makes its way, 
with the assistance the wind, through the intervening low ridges, and converts 
the basins and hollows into winding inlets, while the promontories along the shore 
are cut off from the mainland and become islands. The growth the Sir Daria 
delta can traced with great exactness, for has been surveyed four times from 
1847 1900. The funnel-shaped mouth, which 1847 extended length 
miles, with breadth miles and depth feet, has been silted up, and 
the delta has been pushed far forward into the sea. estimated that the area 
the delta has been enlarged during the interval 14} square miles. the 
south coast are regular shore-lines with deltas stretching out into the water. 
Berg’s illustrations show remarkable examples abrasion, deflation, etc. 


Bolaang-Mongondo Celebes.—By the agreement 1895 the boundary 
between the Dutch province Minahassa and the autonomous state 
Mongondo was defined following the Poigar river the Celebes sea and the 
Baiyas Buyat river Tomini bay. was subsequently ascertained that the 
Poigar rises the Danou and that the sources the two are not near 
together. gain some knowledge the frontier lands, Heer Veenhuizen 
set out April, 1900, from Amurang, and, passing Minahassa and ascending 
the crossed the Gunung Senayap Sinayap into the Poizar basin. 
his way the latter river through very hilly country, turned fora short 
distance along the path Bolaiing, examine some warm springs 
temperature, which dry weather give out such powerful sulphur fumes that 
impossible pass them. Then continued his journey the Danou 
which has length nearly miles and maximum breadth 1800 yards. 
Its surface lies about 3350 feet above sea-level. The temperature the water was 
ing due warm springs, for the neighbourhood volcanic, and weathered pumice- 
stone lies above the clay soil the depth inch. the west the lake rises 
the Ambang, extinct some 6000 feet high, the summit which 
crater lake acres extent; and the north the much lower 
Pinupulan mountain”), which seems the western side crater. 
Following route the left the river, Heer Veenhuizen the 
Limbut height 5500 feet, only few yards from the top, and also the 
Gunung Damar, named from the resinous trees which grow it, and reached 
the town Poigar the coast. Thence turned the basin the river again, 
exploring some the tributaries the right bank, and crossed the watershed 
towards the Ranoiapo height 3120 feet, where was seen that (Min.) 


7 
7 


THE MONTHLY RECORD. 319 


lies nearer the Poigar than marked maps. also visited the little 
lake through which the Poigar flows from south-south-east north-north- 
west. lies elevation 2895 feet, has length 440 yards from north 
soutb, with maximum breadth 550, and feet deep the middle. 
Sinayap was again crossed height 3510 feet, and (Min.) was found 
lie 1010 feet above Veenhuizen made another excursion locate 
the sources the Buyat. ascended the Sekuyung, its tributary the Pinanga- 
toan, and the Pinangatoan-kiri the Gunung Tokulon, and found the highest 
source the Buyat the southern side this mountain height 4300 feet. 
Thence flows the Buyat-kiri, which, with the Buyat-kanam height 


2720 feet, enters the Tomini bay immediately the north the little Rachun 
island. 


AFRICA. 
The Bourg Bozas Expedition: Death the 


almost completing his projected journey across the continent, the Vicomte 
Bozas has, regret say, lost his life—from fever, said—during the 
journey from the Nile the lower Congo. Few recent expeditions have resulted 
greater benefits science, for Bourg’s party was carefully organized, and 
included experts the several branches scientific study, each whom was 
able devote himself his own special subject. The early death the young 
traveller—a scion one the oldest French families—is, therefore, serious loss 
the African geography. respecting the last stage the journey 
have not yet been made known, but the narrative the section, from 
Adis Abbaba the Nile, which appears the number Géograpiie, 
and which advance proof has courteously been forwarded Rabot, 
enables supplement the brief account given our January number. 
route south the Omo and Lake Rudolf was chosen avoid, far possible, 
the routes previous travellers, though some the ground had previously been 
covered the Expedition (among others), the results 
which Bourg does not seem have been aware. After passing through the 
populous province Gurage, the expedition struck south-east for Sidamo, east 
the chain lakes, visit being paid the fertile district Kambata, 
and examination made two the aforesaid lakes. M.du Bourg’s description 
the lakes somewhat difficult fit with those previous travellers, some 
the number being unaccountably omitted. The two first visited are spoken 
Shalla and Abassa, apparently the Shale and Abassi Neumann; but nothing 
said the lake Lamina, placed the latter, Wellby and Harrison, 
immediately the south Shale. however, stated that the level 
Shalla has lately risen, seems possible that now forms one sheet water 
with Lamina, though from its delineation Bourg’s map, more 
probable that represents the latter only. Abassa, said have lately 
transgressed its banks, shown the dead trees standing its water. This 
pure and good, although there outlet, and extremely clear, whereas the 
water Shalla green from minute The lake the east Abassa, which 
distinctive name was given Neumann, and is, besides, 
very much smaller than the eastern Abassi Neumann. Lake Abbaye, the south, 
which very shallow near its northern shores, shows signs recent retreat. Its 
waters are very muddy. Bourg states that drained the Sagan 
Galana, making mention the intermediate lake Gangjule, which, 
indeed, the itinerary did not extend. All the lakes are said quite distinct, 
traces connection the form lacustrine sediments being found 


| 
7 
7 
7 


320 THE MONTHLY RECORD. 


the intervening country. traces the occupation country 
Mohammed Granye were seen the form stone columns, probably the remains 
tombs temples. Hence the route led west across the Bilatti, the main feeder 
Abbaye (known higher Wera, evidently the Waira some former maps), 
Sidamo, the people which are described more civilized than their neighbours, 
and thecountry Theexpedition then went south and west across the moun- 
tainous country between Abbaye and the Omo, finally following the river down 
Rudolf. recent retreat the waters the lake was noticed, but this thought 
merely seasonal, the lake was reached the close the dry 
eastern shores are said well wooded and populous. The march was continued 
south-west through the Turkana and Karamoyo countries, the water-parting between 
Lake Rudolf and the Nile being crossed plateau 5230 feet above the sea. 
the Turkana country all the river-beds were called the 
Near Mount Torror, isolated peak 6500 feet high, the Igiai—a similar 
the Turkana, but less met with, and afterwards the Utumur, small 
and timid race, the last the group which speaks the last part 
the route led through the Shuli country. Notes are given the geology, fauna, 
and climate the countries traversed. Adis Abbaba the frontier 
the rocks were all eruptive, but the lower Omo valley covered recent alluvium, 
probably laid down the floor vast lake, and this were found the numerous 
remains mammalia already alluded (ante, 80). Beyond the Turkana- 
Karamoyo frontier the country consisted granite, with its natural accompaniment 
laterite. 

The Tribes Eastern the first series Occasional 
issued the Anthropological sketch the various races 
dwelling the region between the Victoria lake and Mount Elgon 
supplied Mr. Hobley. The bulk the work more special interest 
the ethnologist, deals with the customs the tribes, their subdivisions, 
languages, etc.; but the first chapter devoted the wider subject the 
affinities and past movements the main racial groups. ‘The peoples described 
are classed Mr. Hobley under the four heads Bantu Kavirondo, Nilotic 
Kavirondo, Nandi, and Masai groups. route which the first-named 
entered the country somewhat doubtful, being possible that they came either 
from the west through Uganda, from the south, from Unyamwezi along the 
eastern side the lake. Mr. Hobley inclines the latter opinion, both 
physically and mentally the Bantu Kavirondo show great differences from the 
while the existence Bantu peoples, speaking closely allied dialects, 
the islands the mouth Kavirondo bay and the mainland further south 
supports the idea, does also the fact alluded the end the work, that 
similarity observable with the language spoken Unyamwezi. Indications 
northward movements, continued the present day, are also beobserved.* The 
invasion the Nilotic who occupy both shores Kavirondo bay, con- 
sidered having taken place later date, and have been, fact, the cause 
which checked the movement leading the occupation the narrow 
plain, which intervenes between the lake and the Nandi escarpment. The 
origin and southward migration the Nandi-Lumbwa group are matters un- 
certainty, but seems probable that, like the these stocks are result 
intermixture between Nilotes and Hamites, the Hamitic strain being, however, less 


While assigning the Wanyamwezi tendency south-to-north movement. 
Baumann Durch 238) considered ihat the Bantu tribes the east 
the Victoria lake had moved contrary direction. 


THE MONTHLY RECORD. 


321 


marked than the Masai. Their migration probably took place fairly remote 
period, and seems likely that their former habitat, like their present, was 
upland region. The only section the Masai included within 
the area dealt with Mr. Hobley—have given the nomadic habits the race, 
and now live scattered settlements among the Kavirondo, Nandi, etc. The 
Eldorobo other writers) seem survivors aboriginal race, 
which Mr. Hobley rather inclined compare with the Nandi—whose language 
they have adopted—than with the Negrillo The general survey 
closes with comparison the characteristics the Kavirondo and Nandi groups 
resulting from the differences their habitats, the cold and fogs the high 
Nandi plateau considered have acted detrimentally the temper and 
physical development its inhabitants. 


The Sabi River Stanley Hyatt, whose map and 
description Eastern Mashonaland appeared the Journal for May, 1902, has 
returned East where has made study the capabilities the Sabi 
river for purposes navigation. writes follows: Sabi and 
Lundi rivers join point the Anglo-Portuguese border some 170 miles from 
the sea-coast. Above this junction the Sabi carries considerably larger volume 
water than its neighbour, the proportion under normal conditions being about 
two one. rivers are the same general character, broad sandy 
beds and precipitous banks. some miles above their junctiou 
there rapid change the level the country, which, the case both rivers, 
causes rocky cataracts, rendering these portions the streams quite impassable. 
Below its junction with the Lundi, the Sabi follows the general direction the 
former river, the bed becoming considerably larger, but still the same 
sandy character. From this point onwards there are further rapids. ‘The 
width the Sabi varies greatly different points, the becoming some 
cases broad mile, others narrowing down half mile. are 
considerable number islands, some little more than large sandbanks, others 
many hundreds yards long and covered with large trees. During the summer 
months the river fills its bed from bank bank, and from January April there 
will average depth feet the centre the stream, while many 
places may reach maximum feet. the end the wet season the 
stream rapidly diminishes width, covering but small portion the river-bed, 
and rarely flowing single channel. speaking, the beginning 
July the stream has average width 250 yards and depth feet. Later 
the season the water sinks still further. impossible give any fixed 
estimates the depth and width the Sabi various points, account 
the shifting the and the great variations the yearly rainfall. 
The river always navigable for light craft far the Rhodesian border, but 
would impossible for any heavy craft ascend high during the dry season. 
The current the Sabi mid-stream, continually changing with 
the varying depths the channels and the fall the flood. But, provided 
there were sufficient depth, small steamers could always make headway against it. 
There always strong breeze blowing up-stream during the daytime, quite 
sufficient for sailing the banks ample supply excellent fuel 
for steamers, and, despite the general steepness the banks, there are 
good landing-places.” 

New Port Cape seems probable that the fine harbour 
Saldanha bay will befure long utilized. Application, stated, made 
for powers construct docks and build railway connect the port 
with the existing Government line. This will miles length, and will pass 


: 


322 


THE MONTHLY RECORD. 


through Hopefield and Omreesburg. The chief drawback Saldanha bay has 
hitherto been the lack water, and this now proposed bring from the Berg 
river, miles distant. not expected that the port will compete with Cape 
Town, but hoped that the large anchorage and good shelter available will 
attract shipping, especially the case goods intended for up-country. The 
harbour completely landlocked, natural breakwater rendering the bay always 
smooth. should remembered that this not the Saldanha bay the old 
navigators, which was the modern Table bay. 


Northern meteorological statistics interest are given 
Sir Lugard’s lately issued report Northern Nigeria. the operations 
against the Emir Yola the advance upon his capital had deferred until 
September, that month the only season when the Benue navigable far 
Yola, the extreme eastern limit the British territory. ‘The rise and fall 
the Niger has been recorded with more less completeness ever since 1898, and 
the figures last given are follows: June the total rise was inches; 
inches; and August, record was kept September, but 
the end October there had been total fall inches, while the suc- 
ceeding month there was further fall inches, and December inch. 
Lokoja and Jebba—both the Niger—the dry season the winter, and 
during December, January, February, and March, rain fell the latter place, 
and none during the first three these months Jebba. year’s rainfall 
Lokoja was inches, and Jebba inches. The mean temperature the 
two places are 81° and Fahr. respectively. All the stations the territory 
are future furnished with proper meteorological instruments. 

The Muidir Plateau, Algerian south-east Insalah 
consists rugged plateau, one the elevated massifs which separate the oases the 
Algerian Sahara from the Tuareg countries tothe south. Few details have hitherto 
been known respecting its geographical features, but some additions our know- 
ledge have lately been made through the work the French stationed 
Insalah. The Muidir was crossed Lieut. Cottenest during his expedition against 
the Hoggar Tuareg early last year, but this being military one, passing through 
hostile territory, few opportunities can have offered themselves for survey work, while 
Lieut. Cottenest’s notes were subsequently lost during the fight with the Tuareg. 
short time after this passage, reconnaissance the Muidir was carried 
out Colonel Laperrine, accompanied Lieuts. Rousseau and Réquin, the latter 
whom has given account the march the 
No. appended the Bulletin Afrique for December, 1902. 
accompanied map prepared Lieut. Rousseau. According Lieut. Réquin, 
the broad physical features this rugged region are most difficult grasp. 
the north the plateau bordered complex and broken series ridges, and 
the west vertical escarpment nearly constant height, but the interior 
forms veritable chaos. The two most striking natural features are, the one 
hand, the numerous deep clefts, traversed flowing between perpendicular 
walls 600 feet high, and the other, the rocky crests ridges which run 
over the surface, and are sometimes broken into strange accumulations rocks, 
having all the appearance ruins. The weds, however, open out into green 
valleys, which afford good pasturage, the Muidir being more favoured nature 
than Tidikelt, for has regular rainfall and abundance wood, addition 
its pastures. was formerly inhabited, but seems have been deserted 
the French occupation Insalah. 


7 
7 
7 


7 
7 
q 

7 
7 
7 


THE MONTHLY RECORD. 323 


AMERICA. 


Messrs. Powell, Quinton, and Foster’s Ascent the 
ascent made these gentlemen October 28, 1902, was brietly the 
last number the Journal, since the issue which Mr. Quinton has sent 
cutting from local newspaper giving some additional details. The ascent was 
begun from the coast Wallibou, the first part being exceedingly difficult, owing 
the formation several new cliffs and ravines. Afterwards, apart from the 
extreme narrowness the knife-ridges, the way was easier. arrival the 
summit, was found that the old crater was active, discharging volumes steam, 
and throwing cones ashes from fissure close under the southern wall. The 
ejecta, which were heaped round the inner walls height several hundred 
feet, were almost red hot, and were smoking profusely, while jets steam were 
issuing from fissure within yards the visitors’ standpoint. Messrs. Powell 
and Foster went down the southern side distance about yards, 
beyond which the walls were precipitous, and boiling cauldron muddy water 
could clearly seen the centre. ‘The best view was, however, obtained from 
the western rim. The cloud steam and ashes from the fissure under the southern 
wall was blown westward, giving the appearance having come from the new 
crater, though there were really signs that this had lately been active. The 
saddle between the two craters was intact. attempt cross windward 
having failed, owing the steepness the southern rim and the heat the 
ashes, the descent was commenced, and proved much harder than the ascent. 
For considerable distance down the sides the mountain covered with portions 
the rock and coarse gravel thrown out. 

Northern Frontier map published the Officina Nacional 
Estadistica, Paz, shows the various frontier-lines which 
have been the subject diplomatic negotiations. The furthest north the 
Ballivian-Cruls line, which the frontier has been definitely fixed with Brazil. 
extends from the Madeira falls north-westwards the Yaquirana, the source 
claims line running from the Inambari, between the Chandless and Manu, and 
along the Amazons watershed the Yaquirana, while the Peruvians claim the 
country far south the Beni. This would deprive Bolivia not only the 


Colonias, but almost all the province Caupolican, and would add 
some 190,000 square miles Peru. 


AUSTRALASIA. 


Journey across Australia.—Mr. Maurice, whose journey into the 
interior Australia from Fowler’s bay the south coast was referred the 
Journal for June, 1902 (p. 760), last year carried out more extended expedition, 
again company with Mr. Murray (as surveyor), which led across the 
whole breadth the continent the north coast. short narrative the 
journey appeared the Adelaide Observer November 29, 1902. The party, 
which had with fourteen camels, left Fowler’s bay April, 1902, and took about 
seven months complete the journey, crossing the tracks Giles, Tietkins, Gosse, 
Warburton, and other explorers, whose routes had led mainly east-and-west 
direction. Various permanent waters were discovered, and the year was excep- 
tionally dry, there can doubt that the supply these places really 
perennial. Geological, ethnological, and zoological collections were made. 
early stage the journey the Afghan camel-driver deserted, and some time was 
spent vain endeavour track him down. From water which 


| 


324 THE MONTHLY RECORD. 


had been visited the former journey, the party struck across for the Everard 
range, where sufficient water was with difficulty obtained, though was the 
vicinity the range that the first and only rain experienced fell. The country 
described very grand and rugged. The neighbourhood the Musgrave range: 
was found worse condition than had ever been known before, and the 
rabbits which once swarmed, only one two were seen. After crossing with some 
difficulty ragged precipitous range beyond the Musgrave, and taking copies 
some remarkable aboriginal drawings, the expedition reached Opparinna, where 
the spring was found have not diminished much since the previous 
year. removing the outer wood marked tree the vicinity, the 
tion Lamb” was distinctly made out, though whom and when the name was 
inscribed unknown. Some auriferous outcrops were noticed, extending towards 
Petermann range, and near Ayers rock (so named Gosse) copies some fine 
aboriginal drawings were obtained. Tietkins’ hole, near Mount Olga, photo- 
graphs were taken the marked tree, the inscription which was legible 
when first cut thirteen years before. water was found little the south 
Lake Amadeus, and were traces very ancient camp. softness the 
ground making unsafe cross Lake Amadeus where first struck, the party 
turned aside its western end. Near Giles’ creek splendid water-hole, 
contain million gallons, was found, and named Thomas’ reservoir. 
Mounts Lyell, Brown, and Russell, seen but not visited Tietkins, were found 
dry and barren. Eva Springs, Warburton’s track, relics that explorer’s 
stay were found, and the range near, two beautiful springs were discovered. 
Beyond Mount Singleton extraordinary cave was found, and after stretch 
the poorest desert country Dr. Davidson’s track was reached. Here number 
camels were poisoned eating and was considered advisable 
make for civilization Sturt’s creek, whence the rest the journey Wyndham 
Cambridge gulf was effected frequented tracks. 


Australian Transcontinental official notice the South 
Australian Government Gazette calls for tenders for the construction and working 
line railway from north south across the Australian continent. the 
northern territory the railway has not yet penetrated very far into the desert, 
the distance from Port Darwin Pine Creek (the terminus) being not much more 
thin 150 miles; but the south the line has almost reached the 27th parallel 
south latitude, north-west Lake Eyre, where Oodnadatta has for some years been 
the terminus. now proposed connect these two points, and the scheme 
carried out the land-grant system. The land granted not 
exceed 75,000 acres for each mile selected alternate 
blocks side the The grant fee simple, with all gold and 
minerals thereon and thereunder. The line, which have gauge feet 
inches, will under 1200 miles length. 


POLAR REGIONS. 


Dr. Arctic scientific the Arctic 
regions being Dr. Jean Charcot, with the support the French 
Academy Sciences, the Natural History Mureum, and the Ministry Public 
Instruction. who last year made voyage Jan Mayen, impressed 
with the necessity for the scientific study the regions already known, serve 
point departure for further explorations the neighbourhood the pole, 
and will take with him assistants, who will make observations the field 
geology, oceanography, biology, and other branches science. 
three-masted schooner 400 tons being built St. Malo for the purposes the 


THE MONTHLY RECORD. 


expedition, which will, sail May six months’ cruise. pro- 
posed visit Jan Mayen, Spitsbergen, Josef Land, and the north-west part 
Novaya Zemlya. 

The Danish Expedition West Greenland.—The Danish 
which went out 1902 for the purpose researches into the the 
native inhabitants Greenland vol. xix. 641), was September last 
the Holstenborg colony, the west coast, whence the leader, Mr. 
Erichsen, has sent the Standard some account the experiences his party 
during the summer months. part the narrative consists description 
the free, open-air life which during this time the explorers had shared with the 
canoeing, shooting along the mountainous fiord-pierced coasts 
West Greenland. Some account is, however, given two attempts ascend 
the inland-ice,” which are some geographical interest. The first was made from 
the inmost end the Godthaab fiord, into which the Ujaragssuit glacier debouches. 
attempt ascend this glacier had been made Nansen during 
the following his crossing Greenland; nor was Mr. Erichsen’s party 
more successful, the attempt being frustrated two successive days the soft- 
ness the clay banks the river which emerges from the glacier, the impassable 
nature this stream, and—when eighteen hours had been made over 
the mountain-side—by the perpendicular wall which the latter fell towards 
the the second day good-sized ruin dating from the period the 
Norsemen was discovered and sketched. Subsequently more successful atte npt 
reach the ice was made from Sukkertoppen, the route chosen leading thence 
the Sermilinguak fiord, into which arm the inland ice makes its exit. 
Mr. Erichsen (who took with him one the sledges used Nansen 1888) 
was Count Moltke and young Greenland ecclesiastic, Jérgen 
and one the Greenlanders who had formed his crew the head 
the fiord. the ascent progressed the ice became more and more rough, the 
whole surface being furrowed crevasses narrow ridges and pinnacles. 
With great difficulty the leader reached the summit over 3000 
feet above the sea, whence view was obtained which enabled him correct 
existing maps certain particulars, was found that the 50-70 miles ice 
between the South Isortok fiord and the Evigheds fiord separated from the true 
inland ice the east lower country lakes and rivers that receive the waters 
the inland ice. Subsequently, glacier walk from the the 
fiord, Mr. Erichsen found that the body ice between that fiord and the 
fiord separated from the ice proper two rows 
forming virtually two consecutive mountain ranges, this being again not shown 
existing maps. the time writing the was about start 
northward for Egedesminde (69° N.), the further advance towards 
winter quarters Melville bay. 

Expeditions expedition sent out East Greenland 
during the summer 1901 under the auspices the Danish Greenland Committee, 
with the support the Carlsberg fund, which had leader the botanist Kruuse 
(accompanied his wife), learn from Mitteilungen (1902, 
267), safely returned after spending year that inhospitable region. The 
headquarters were fixed Angmagsalik, where biological investigations were carried 
out during the winter. This was long and severe, though calm, and the ice re- 
mained fast the coast from the middle December the middle June. 
After the latter date survey was made, means motor boat, the two 
large fiords Augmagsalik and Sermilik. The flora this region was found 
consist 110 112 species phanerogams and vascular cryptogams, besides lower 


7 
7 


326 THE MONTHLY RECORD. 

forms, and the results the expedition include zoological collections, and bio- 
logical and ethnographical studies. expedition the opposite side Green- 
land was carried out the summer 1902, under the same auspices, Dr. 
Engell, who executed surveys and made studies glacier movement, plaut life, 


the neighbourhood the Tasiusak fiord, near Jacobshavn, well 
some hitherto unknown districts further south. 


Geodetic Work result the four years’ work 
1902) Spitsbergen the measurement meridional arc, long, between 
the Keilhaus mountain the south and the Little Table island the north. 
The Russian party undertook the southern part, from lat. 76° 38’ 79° 4’, and the 
Swedes the northern, lat. 80° 49’. Both parties measured base with 
Jiiderin’s apparatus, which the bars are nickel steel, the Swedish base being 
nearly 10,960 yards long, and the Russian about 6799. Latitudes have been deter- 
mined the points where angular measurements were taken, and six others— 
twenty-nine points all, about one for every minutes arc, that unusually 
exact study the surface form will possible. Twenty-three azimuths have 
been taken, which will serve detect local disturbances azimuth, and the 
influence the attraction the adjacent lands astronomical observations has 
been ascertained. Gravity observations means the pendulum have been 
made several points. the work triangulation, the meteorology, 
geology, and botany the districts visited have received attention. has been 
agreed that the observations shal! published detail, and that the Russian and 
Swedish commissions shall work out separately their respective portions the 
triangulation series, but that the reduction final results, involving com- 
parison the astronomical and geodetic results, the commissions shall co-operate. 
map the region covered the triangulation will published the scale 
and special maps the triangular points larger scale. conical 
projection will used, the tangent plane touching the Earth’s surface 78° 
lat. The general map will consist five sheets, which three will com- 
piled the Russians. results the expedition will published French 
series memoirs, and will ready for printing within the year. sections 
included the first part the work will deal with the geodetic and astronomical 
results, gravity and tidal observations, while magnetism, meteorology, geology, 


botany, etc., will furnish the subjects for the memoirs the latter part. 
No. 1902. 


} mer, 


MATHEMATICAL AND PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. 


The Figure the paper communicated the Geological 
Society its meeting January 21, Prof. Sollas discussed the figure the 
Earth from quite new point view, with the remarkable result that obtains 
empirical methods figure agreeing with the mathematical conclusions Mr. 
(Geographical Journal, February, 1903, 191), pear-like shape.” 
the note referred pointed out that, although Mr. Jeans’s general conclusions 
would not affected, his description regional distributions was likely 
criticized, and accordingly find that Prof. Sollas places the his pear 
the middle Africa, while the broad end” covered the Pacific. 
points out the almost precise correspondence great terrestrial features with 
circular form. The Aleutian curve has its centre N., long. 177° W., that 
the East Indies about 15° and 118° E., and round the latter centre are 
several concentric curves. The northern part South America, the Alpine- 
Himalayan chain, the western shore North America, and portion Australia, 
may similarly reduced geometric form. great circle swept through the 


MONTHLY RECORD, 327 


centres the East Indian and Aleutian arcs runs symmetrically through the 
bordering seas Asia far Alaska, borders the inland lakes America, 
the Californian centre, extends through the middle the Caribbean sea, 
parallel with the coast the Antarctic continent, and returns the East 
Indian centre without touching Australia. This course remarkable corre- 
spondence with the general trend the great zone Pacific weakness. the 
pole this circle the Libyan desert placed towards observer globe, 
the African continent appears great dome surrounded seas and separated 
from the Pacific irregular belt land. second great circle defined 
Lake Baikal, and with its centre morphological centre Asia” Suess, 
and passing through the East Indian centre, may regarded the direction- 
circle for the Eurasian folding. These two circles intersect angle 39°, 
and bisecting this angle mean directive circle found with its pole near the 
sources the White Nile north the Equator. The axis terrestrial symmetry 
through this pole passes through the middle Africa and the Pacific ocean. 
The smallest circle which will Africa has its centre near this pole, 
and within the symmetry the fractured African dome observable. Outside 
this comes belt seas, and outside that again the Pacific belt continents, the 
Antarctic, South America, North America, Asia, and Australia. significant 
feature connected with this way looking the question the greatly increased 
transition from the piriform the spherical shape. 

Star-shaped Maps the Various forms the star-shaped repre- 
sentation the globe have been suggested since the idea such representation was 
tirst mooted 1865 Dr. Jiiger Vienna. one most commonly employed, 
and which was first adopted Berghaus 1879, that which the star has five 
branches, which results the separation Australia into two portions contained 
within two separate branches. equidistant projection usually employed, 
and the outlines Africa and South America are much distorted. the 
Géographie Historique Descriptive for 1902 (part. ii.), Lieut. Berthon suggests 
form that has not been made use before, the number branches being reduced 
four, while the projection used instead the equidistant. The 
branches are constructed that corresponding parallels are equal distances 
trom the equator both hemispheres, while the distances between the meridians 
corresponding parallels are also equal. The outer meridians the several 
branches are thus considerably curved outwards, and the obliquity the meridians 
with the parallels reduced. shapes and relative positions the continents 
are certainly well shown this means, but the enormous exaggeration the size 
the equatorial parts the globe disadvantage, South America appearing 
very much larger than North America, and Africa than Asia; that doubt- 
ful whether the whole the new method great improvement the old. 
The slight modification the usual five-branched star employed Dr. 
International Geography’ possesses some advantages over both the use eight 
branches, alternately wider and narrower, permitting the three great southern land- 
masses, well the centres the three great oceans, each coincident with 
the star. 

The Supply Chloride Sodium Rivers the Sea.—Since the 
question the possible calculation the age the Earth consideration 
the amount sodium annually supplied rivers the ocean was brought 
forward some three years ago Prof. Joly, the subject bas engaged the attention, 
the continent, Prof. Dubois, whose latest communication 
appears vol. iv. the the Section Sciences the 


THE MONTHLY RECORD. 


Royal Academy Sciences Prof. Joly’s estimate was based 
Sir John Murray’s estimate, made some years ago, the average 
river-water. This estimate, which depended analyses the water nineteen 
rivers only, was not its author more than tentative, and Prof. 
Dubois shows that much more extensive observations are necessary yield trust- 
worthy result. bas with much care brought together the results analyses 
seventy-five different rivers portions rivers (many them series extending 
over considerable time), far concerns the sodium chlorine 
contained their water. The figures show very great variation between the 
different rivers, and consequently striking deviation the actual values from 
Sir John Murray’s average. Generally, the quantity sodium found 
much less than the latter’s estimate; and Prof. Dubois shows that still 
further diminished when the quantities derived from the pollution the rivers 
human agency, and the amount supplied rain, are taken into account. the 
case the Meuse, calculates that not more than parts per million parts 
water due chemical denudation, out observed total parts, 
whereas the average derived from Sir John Murray’s figures Further, 
noticed that almost all river-water there isa decided deficit chlorine 
compared with the quantity that could combined with the sodium, that, 
all the sodium sea-water combined with chlorine, some other supply the 
latter than brought down rivers must available. There difliculty 
accounting for this supply when consider the amount hydrochloric acid 
gas discharged into the atmosphere volcanic agencies, and the fact that three 
times much falls the ocean land. Prof. Dubois concludes 
showing that, the amount sodium really attributable chemical denuda- 
tion appears only quarter that assumed Prof. Joly, period four 
hundred million years would necessary account for the existing amount 
the ocean this were entirely due the agencies supposed. Such result leads 
distrust the applicability existing data the problem, and lends weight 
the opinion which other geological facts had led—that the greater part the 
chloride sodium the ocean must have been far more rapid 
process than that existing chemical denudation. 

the Paris Academy Sciences (December 15, 1902) the origin the 
surface formation met with most commonly limestone districts, which usually 
known the German term the French formation 
the vertical clefts separating the separate blocks usualiy ascribed the 
action rain the rocks, but Martel holds that important part 
also played the mechanical action running water. The vest known examples 
Karren occur alpine districts, considerable elevation, but the writer gives 
number instances which the formation met with valleys plains 
low elevation, sometimes the actual beds rivers (as, the falls the 
Sautadet the first cataract the Nile), even the sea (as Killsee 
Ireland). where the occur high elevations, Martel holds that 
many cases they represent portions old river-valleys which have remained 
perched the air, while the rest them has been removed either tectonic 
movements subsequent denudations. also finds constant relation exist 
between the and the abysses which the surface waters 
are engulfed limestone regions, and which have resulted 
for sub-aérial circulation the water. invariable relation, 
which attention, Martel says, does not seem have been previously called, 
is, his opinion, strong argument favour the idea that large number 


4 
4 


OBITUARY. 329 


cases the have been originally formed the action water, 


although the present day chemical action, the effects which are far more 
feeble, may have taken its place. 


OBITUARY. 


Sir Lintorn Simmons. 
the death Field-Marshal Sir John Lintorn Arabin 
the little band Fellows who can claim that their connection with our Society 
dates back more than balf century, loses one the most distinguished its 
members. younger days the duties Sir John Simmons carried him far 
from the mother country, and though never any sense explorer, was fond 
travelling, and manifested his interest geographical discovery joining the 
Society Born 1821, Simmons entered the Royal Engineers 1837, 
and for some time served Canada. Subsequently held responsible posts 
connection with the early development the railway system this country. 
The Crimean war opened new field which gain distinction. 
Being Constantinople 1853, leave absence, was employed several 
missions connected with the negotiations which preceded the war, and the following 
year was appointed her Majesty’s commissioner with the Ottoman army. During 
the war saw considerable service various parts the Nearer East, and 
1857 was the British representative the commission which laid down the 
boundary between Asia Minor and two years after this 
acted Warsaw, but 1860 again took work this country, 
and the next twenty years filled various important posts, being director 
the School Military Engineering Chatham, 1865-68; governor the Royal 
1875-80. was also attached the Embassy which attended the 
Berlin Congress 1878, and took part the Berlin Conference 1880, which 
assembled discuss the Greek frontier question. 1884 was 
Governor Malta, but, reaching the age-limit four years later, had retire. Sir 
John Simmons received the Knight Commandership the Bath 1869, and 
became Knight the Grand Cross that Order nine years later; was made 
1887. After his retirement, Sir acted Extraordinary and 
Minister Plenipotentiary the Pope and the following year was given 


rank Field-Marshal. died February 14, two days his eighty- 
second birthday. 


John Hall Gladstone, PhD., D.Sc., 


Dr. John Hall Gladstone, who died October, 1902, the age seventy-five 
years, was one our older members, having joined the Society 1863, nearly 
forty Although best known for his work connection with chemistry, 
Dr. Gladstone was man broad and attainments, and particular 
was deeply interested all questions related with the improvement educational 
methods, being himself member the School Board for London for over twenty 
years. efforts our Society improve the status geography 
study this country met with his warm approval, and took part the 
discussions which tock place the meetings connection with the Society’s 


330 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


Educational Exhibition 1885. Dr. Gladstone, who was educated University 
College, London, and Giessen University, was Fullerian Professor Chemistry 
the Royal Institution from 1874 1877, President the Physical Society from 
1874 1876, and the Chemical Society from 1877 1879, and was the author 
various scientific papers, chiefly chemical subjects. 


Dr. James Stevenson. 
The death occurred January Mr. James Stevenson, Born 
1822, Mr. Stevenson passed through Glasgow University, where displayed 
mathematical abilities very high order. His sympathies, however, were not 
confined that branch scholarship, and later years assisted the University 
substantially the promotion various studies. His generous and instructed 
interest the progress education was recognized the University short time 
ago, when his doctor’s degree was conferred upon him. the geographical world 
Mr. Stevenson was best known for his connection with British Central Africa, 
where his name will preserved long the Stevenson road endures and bears 
that designation. was one the many caught into the current the great 
outburst missionary enthusiasm for the work opening the Dark 
Continent exploration, which followed the death Dr. Livingstone. 
joined the Royal Geographical Society 1877, and was closely associated with the 
African Lakes Company, founded year later, which was Chairman the 
time his death. Early the eighties, Mr. Stevenson vigorously pressed scheme 
for the construction road between Lakes Nyasa and Tanganyika. himself 
subscribed some thousands pounds enable the necessary surveys carried 
out. The road was never properly laid down, but path was cleared through 
considerable stretch difficult country, and route opened which not only will 
long preserve Mr. Stevenson’s name our maps, but has not been without impor- 
tance the diplomatic negotiations that accompanied the partition the continent. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 
Captain Benjamin Expedition 1596. 


have given, pp. some details, mostly from Portuguese sources, the 
voyage and ultimate fate the three Whelp, and 
Captain Benjamin Wood’s Expedition, which left England for the Far 
the latter part 1596, and respecting which there has been much confusion and 
misstatement owing blunder Purchas’s. have there shown that one 
the ships was lost somewhere off the south coast Africa; and that the other two 
ships, after acts piracy the Malabar coast, encountered, the Malacca 
strait, Portuguese fleet, with which they carried running fight for eight 
days, the end which time, owing the blowing the gunpowder 
board the admiral,” the two English ships retired Old Kedah repair and re- 
fresh. Owing their diminished numbers, however, the Englishmen abandoned 
the smaller vessel this port, and set sail for home the which shortly 
afterwards foundered storm off Martaban. 

Although Couto, who supplies with this information, erroneously calls these 
ships and records precisely similar fate having befallen the Dutch 
ships Leeuw and Leewwin (on one which John Davis was pilot) 1599, 


q 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


could find reason doubt the accuracy his account the ending 
expedition. Now, through the kindness Mr. William Foster, the India 
Office, able substantiate the general accuracy Couto’s narrative, and 
carry the story step further. Mr. Foster has drawn attention passage 
the English translation, John Davies, Mandelslo’s (London, 1662), 
246-247, which occurs connection with description Mauritius, and reads 
follows 

the Dutch came thither September they found there French 
souldier, who had left his Countrie some three years before, with three English 
ships, which were the first those parts that attempted sailing into the Indies 
upon the accompt Piracy. these three ships one was cast away neer the 
Cape Good hope, and sickness having consumed most the men, they that 
remained set fire the second, regard for want men, they were not able 
govern it, The third was wrack’d upon the Coasts the Indies, where all the men 
were lost, seven only excepted, wit, four English men, two Negroes, and French 
who attempted return with some booty, which they disposed into 
Cannow, wherein they set Sea, and made shift get Maurice-Island. 
had design there rid themselves their Camerades, but being 
discovered they cast themselves into the Sea, and were drowned. The four English 
men would prosecute their Voyage, but the French souldier chose rather continue 
the Isle, then double the Cape, and expose himself the mercy the Sea, 
small Vessel. Accordingly, the English there was more news heard. 
The French man had been moneths the Island, when the Dutch came thither. 
was stark naked, regard that having been burning which 
heightened into degree maduess, had torn his cloaths; that having not 
had any thing about him ever since his sickness, nor fed any thing but the raw 
Tortoyses took, they were not little surpriz’d the sight him, and con- 
ceived would easie matter restore him his senses, though behaved 
himself well enough otherwise, was very good health.” 

Mr. Foster points out, the above story does not occur the original (German) 
edition Mandelslo’s Travels (1865), but interpolation Abraham van 
Wicquefort, who translated the Olearius-Mandelslo Travels into and pub- 
lished his translation 1659. There copy this first French edition the 
British Museum Library but the second edition, published 1666, the passage 
occurs pp. 523-524 tom. From comparison this with Davies’s version, 
find that the latter pretty faithful rendering the French. Now, whence 
did Wicquefort obtain the details given Only one source, know, 


was available him, viz. the diary the voyage the fleet five Dutch ships 


that sailed from the Texel for the East April 1601, under the command 
Wolphert Harmanszoon. This diary was first printed 1645, forming part the 


collection voyages entitled Begin ende Voortgangh vande Vercenighde Neder- 
lantsche Oost-Indische Compagnie.’ this journal the diarist 
states that August 20, 1601, the ships were calm 33° There 
then strange (and regrettable) breach the diary printed; 
for the next entry reads 

“On September [1601] the yacht named came back out the 
harbour Mauritius bringing with some and Frenchman named 


have translated literally possible, and have retained the punctuation 
the original. 


Owing the gap the diary, have record the dispatch the yacht, 
the date which left the fleet. 
Coconuts. 


332 CORRESPONDENCE. 


who some years before had sailed from England with captain com- 
ships, with yacht, and, the aforesaid relates, after that 
they had captured some ships and junks the coast Melinde, were compelled 
(owing the great loss and occurring daily, that the aforesaid 
ships were more than one, for near the Cape Bonne they lost 
their yacht, and owing the loss men they burnt their vice-admiral, account 
the continuance the sickness) strand the aforesaid ship (which was the 
third) near Malaca the island Pulo where the aforesaid ship 
remained, and all the men died except seven, wit, four Englishmen, and this 
Frenchman, with two blacks; which persons bestowed themselves Indian 
junk with some booty, order cross over England therewith, but getting 
sea, the two blacks, says, plotted some treachery, but their attempt failed, 
which out desperation they leapt overboard, drowning themselves, 
that the Englishmen and this Frenchman arrived the aforesaid junk this 
roadstead where where they lay days, which time, appears, 
they had disagreement, because the Frenchman wished that they should remain 
there, hoping for the mercy God, that time they might make their junk 
stronger and larger, but the Englishmen would not stay longer there; the four 
them put sea the aforesaid junk order get that this 
poor man bad remained alone the island for period months, 
which time had been eight months without fire, going about all that time 
naked, sustaining himself with and raw flesh, yet was 
corpulent and robust any the fleet, both ranning and otherwise, but 
was very muddle-headed when was asked much, which not wondered at, 
when one thinks, what manifold fancies such man long time might have, 
also the heat the sun, which gone about always naked, because, 
says, severe illness that had had, bad torn all the clothes from his 
body, may the Almighty God restore him his former health, and preserve all 
from such acalamity Amen.” 

Whether the diarist’s pious aspiration for the restoration mental vigour the 
unfortunate Frenchman was fulfilled, not know, further mention made 
him. But his misfortune us, for vitiates some extent the 
accuracy his story. However, taking stands, let see how compares 
with Couto’s account; for that refers expedition there cannot the 
least doubt. 

According the Frenchman the fleet consisted two ships and yacht, 
and had sailed from England years This can apply only 
Captain fleet, consisting the Bear (of 180, 200, the 
Whelp (of 140 and the Benjamin (probably the yacht, tonnage 
which sailed, have said, 1596. 

The yacht, the said, was lost off the Cape Good Hope.** This 


misprint for probably. 
Portuguese the palm cabbage.” 
tortoise. 
Whom Wicquefort, with apparent authority, designates 
Wicquefort, will noticed, has quite unwarrantably and erroneously inserted 
“three.” adds, that these were “the first [English ships] those parts that 
attempted sailing into the Indies upon the accompt Piracy,” which also erroneous, 
the Raymond-Lancaster expedition had preceded this one more than years. 
The Voyage Robert Dudley’ (Hakluyt Preface, xxxi., regarding 
these varying estimates. 


* 


f 


q 
q 


CORRESPON DENCE, 333 


accounts for the fact that when first hear the from Portuguese sources 
only two are mentioned. 

far, all plain sailing; but now the two accounts vary detail. The 
Frenchman silent regards the calling the two ships for 
water, but, the other hand, informs that they “captured some ships and 
junks the coast Melinde,” fact not mentioned the Portuguese writers. 
possible, however, that the reference really the capture Portuguese 
vessels off the Malabar coast, recorded the Goa Chamber and Couto, but not 
the Frenchman. discrepancies may fairly, think, charged the 
latter’s 

Far more unaccountable, however, the utter silence the Frenchman 
regard the engagement with the Portuguese feet the Strait Malacca, 
which Couto gives such graphic account. can only once more attribute this 
silence mental aberration. 

The loss men the English ships Couto attributes entirely the effect 
the Portuguese artillery, but according the Frenchman (and with much greater 
likelihood), was due sickness.* 

According the Frenchman, again, the account their diminished 
numbers, burnt their vice-admiral but where, does not say. Couto tells 
that the Englishmen that port [Kedah] the ship lesser 
may therefore take these two statements agreeing. 

Couto also states that after the Englishmen had abandoned their smaller ship, 
the other, which was the admiral, they embarked what they had, and went 
off greit haste, much so, that they left shore several wounded men, because 
the natives wished attack them for various wrongs that they had done them, 
and shaped their course for Bengalla; and the latitude the coast 
Pegu they were lost that macareo.” the other hand, the Frenchman’s 
version that the English were compelled, owing their loss men, strand 
the remaining ship, the admiral,” Pulo Batung,§ which island not near 
Malacca,” the diarist but the west coast the Malay 
peninsula, not far from Kedah. Now, probable that statement, that 
the admiral went down off the coast Pegu, based mere surmise, 
and the account may quite correct; there is, any rate, nothing 
justify our rejecting it. 

The rest the story are obliged take find it, having 
other testimony substantiate contradict it. true that when 
rescued the had been “alone the island for period 
months,” and his companions must have arrived there early the year 1600, 
and must therefore have set out from Pulo towards the end 1599. Now, 
according Couto, the fight between the English ships and the Portuguese fleet 
took place January, 1598; that the survivors this unfortunate expedition 


Compare the terrible mortality that took place board the Raymond-Lancaster 
ships. 

The Whelp, probably. 

The doubtless. 

While the English ships were Kedah, Couto states, the Portuguese captain 
Malacca sent couple look for them, which went far Pulo Butung, 
but did not find them. 

The version has that the third ship was wrack’d upon the 
Coasts the Indies where all the men were lost seven only excepted.” 

Compare what said above attributing the same ending two 
Dutch ships. 

No. 1903.] 


i 
| 


334 MEETINGS THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, SESSION 1902-1903. 


must have spent nearly two years Kedah and Butung. Although this 
not beyond the bounds possibility, may well that the Frenchman’s memory 
had played him false, and that his sojourn the island had been longer than 
stated. That the junk with the four Englishmen and the booty was lost sea, 
cast away some wild coast Africa, otherwise should have 
some record their foolhardy voyage. 

Owing the above-mentioned lacuna the Dutch diary, and the general 
vagueness the bearings recorded, seems impossible identify the harbour 
Mauritius where the unfortunate Frenchman was rescued from living death 
and the original manuscript the diary longer exists,* the omission from the 
printed edition 1645 cannot now supplied. 

20, Beech House Road, Croydon, 

January 24, 1903. 


MEETINGS THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, 
SESSION 


Ordinary Meeting, January 26, 1903.—Colonel 
Vice-President, the Chair. 

Bailey, East Yorks Regt.; William Singer 
Barclay Sidney Barton; Harlan George McLean Buckley 
Cuthbert John Burgoyne; George Bush, Gillmore Carter 
Bertram Chaplin Captain James Cochrane, Leinster Regt. David 
Delbanco; William Francis Farrer; Colonel George Malcolm For; William 
Fry; James William Willie Henry Colonel Robert Edmund 
Golightly Robert Joseph Hardie; Captain Ralph Henvey, Majer 
Hills, C.M.G.; Charles Kennedy Major William Campbell 
James Compton Lieut. Richard John Noal, R.N.R.; Captain 
Charles William Orr, Captain Owen, Oxford Light Infantry 
Daniel Thomas Phillips; Joseph Purvis; Ernest John James Christie 
Reid; Robert Lyons Scott; Rev. Henry John Shirley; William Hillman 
Thomas Spinks Storie. 

The Paper read was 


Seventh Ordinary Meeting, February 1903.—Sir 
K.C.B., President, the Chair. 

William Whitehorn John Foster Lionel Cohen 
Robert Dr. Gonzales; John Harley Hon. 
Lord Captain Thomas Nairne Howard, King’s 
Lieut. Philip Howell, Queen’s Own Corps Guides; Lieut. Richard 
hagen, King’s African Rifles; Frederick Major Oswald Henry Pedley, 
Edward Valpy, B.A.; Sir Henry Wardlaw, 

The Paper read was 


Journaux des Navigateurs pp. 203-204. 


\ 
7 
; 


GEOGRAPHICAL LITERATURE 


THE MONTH. 


Additions the Library. 
EDWARD HEAWOOD, M.A., 


The following abbreviations nouns and the adjectives derived from them are 


employed indicate the source articles from other publications. 
names are each case written full 


Academy, Academie, Akademie. 
Abhandlungen. 

Ann. Annals, Annales, Annalen. 
Bulletin, Bollettino, Boletim. 
Com. Commerce. 

Rd. Comptes Rendus. 

Erdkunde. 

(+, Geography, Geographie, 
Ges. Gesellschaft. 

Institute, Institution. 

Izvestiya. 
Journal. 

Mitteilungen. 


Geographical 


Mag. Magazine. 

Mem. Memoirs, Mémoires. 
Met. Meteorological. 

Proceedings. 

Royal. 

Rev. Review, Revue. 

Sitzb. Sitzungsbericht. 

Transactions. 

Verein. 

Verh. Verhandlungen. 

Wissenschaft, and compounds. 
Zeitschrift. 

Zap. Zapiski. 


account the ambiguity the words octavo, quarto, the size books 
the list below denoted the length and breadth the cover inches the nearest 
half-inch. The size the Journal 6}. 


selection the works this list will noticed elsewhere the Journal.” 


EUROPE. 


Austria—Geodesy. 
Publicationen fiir die Internationale 


Erdmessung. 


Die 


ischen Arbeiten des und Wien. XVIII. 


Band. Trigonometrische Arbeiten. 
der Monarchie. 
Institute. Wien, 1902. 


Balkan Peninsula— Wallachia. 


Die Netz-Ausgleichungen Ostlichen 
Herausgegeben vom und Militiir-Geographischen 
Size 9}, pp. and 


Map. 
Martonne. 


Paris: Armand Colin. 1902. 
tions. fr. 
Denmark—Jutland. 


Denmark— Meteorology. 


Size 6}, pp. xv. and 388. 
Presented the Author. 


Globus (1903): 41-43. 
auf der Karte von Jiitland. 


Map and 
reviewed. 


Hansen. 
Von Prof. 


Annuaire pour 1900. par l'Institut météorologique 


Danois. 
(pp. 
Europe—Area and Population. 


contrées terre. 


1902. 


des Preussischen Institutes. 


partic (pp. 98); ditto, pour 1901. 
Size 


Levasseur and Bodio. 


Premitre Partie (Europe). 
Bulletin UInstitut international 
Size pp. viii. and 110. 


Extrait 
Tome xii. Livraison. 

Borsch and Kriiger. 
N.F. No. 10. 


Lotabweichungen. Heftii. Linien siidlich der 
Grad Breite von Borch und Kriiger. Berlin: Stankie- 


wicz, 1902. 
France. 


France—Auvergne. 


Lille (1902): 146-163, 204-214, 269-289. 
Nos Geographie militaire. 


G., B.S.G. Paris 370-374. 


Maps. 


With Mups. 
Bruyant. 


Par Prof. Bruyant. 


logie. 


( ) 
7 


336 GEOGRAPHICAL LITERATURE THE MONTH. 


B.S.G. Paris (1902): 197-217, 289-308, 375-391. Paquier. 


sur formation relief dans Diois les Baronnies orientales. 


Paquier. 

France—Early Cartography. Hist. Descriptive (1902): 176-183. Marcel. 
Une carte Picardie inconnue Géographe Jean Jolivet. Par Marcel. 

France—Landes. Rd. 185 1134-1135. Fabre. 
Sur courant littoral des Landes. Note Fabre. 

France—Touraine. B.G. Hist. Descriptive (1902): 270-275. Chauvigne. 


comparative des différents Touraine avant 1789. Par Aug. 
Chauvigné. With Map. 


France—West Coast. Hist. Descriptive (1902): 149-154. Duffart. 


Nouvelle preuve ouvertes sur littoral gascon pendant 
période quaternaire. Var Charles Duffart. With Map. 


Germany—Rivers. Ges. Erdk. Berlin (1902): 880-882. Schjerning 
Die norddeutschen Von Dr. 
Statistics collected from the official works the rivers. 


Silesia. (1902): 553-570. 


Frech. 
Ueber den Bau der Schlesischen Eine tektonische Skizze. Von Prof. Dr. 
Fritz Frech. With Map and 


Gaertringen and Wilski. 
Thera. Untersuchungen, Vermessungen und Ausgrabungen den Jahren 1895- 
1902. von Hiller von Gaertringen. Vierter Band. 
Klimatologische Beobachtungen aus Thera. Bearbeitet von Wilski. Teil 
Die Durchsichtigkeit der Luft dem Meere nach Beobachtungen 


der Fernsicht von der Insel Thera. Berlin: Reimer, 1902. Size 10, pp. 54. 
Maps Diagrams. Price 8s. 


ASIA. 

Afghanistan. Noyce. 
England, India, and Afghanistan. Essay upon the relations, past and future, 
between Afghanistan and the British Empire India. The Bas Prize 
Essay, 1902. Frank Noyce. London: Clay Sons, 1902. Size 

skilful summary the leading facts the history British relations with 

from impartial standpoint, with forecast the future the country. 


Armenia. Rohrbach. 
Vom Kaukasus zum Mittelmeer. und Studienreise durch 
Armenien yon Paul Rohrbach. Leipzig und Berlin: Teubner, 1903. 
Size pp. viii. and 224. Presented the Publisher. 


Asia. G., Paris 357-362. Lapparent 


China. 


China. Maritime Customs. Statistical Series: Nos. and Re- 
Trade and Trade Reports for the year 1901. Part ii. Reports and 
Statistics for port, with report Foreign Trade China. 1902 
Size 8}, pp. xvi. and 804. Diagrams. $5. 
China, etc.—Botany. 

Enumeration all the known from China Proper, Formosa, Hainan, 
Corea, the Luchu Archipelago, and the Island Hongkong, together with their 

This volume includes the orders from those from 
having been dealt with vol. xxiii. (1886-1888). The 
publication being continued vol. xxxvi. 

China—Shantung. Fischer 

Reise-Eindriicke aus Schantung. Vortrag von Dr. Fischer. (Abteilung Berlin- 
Charlottenburg der Deutschen Verhandlungen 1902/03. 
Band vii. Heft 1.) Berlin: Dietrich Reimer (Ernst Vohsen), 1902. Size 
pp. 24. Presented the Publisher. 


Forbes and Hemsley. 


GEOGRAPHICAL LITERATURE THE MONTH. 337 


Chinese Empire—Tibet. Launay. 
Miss. Catholiques (1902): 573-576, 587-588, 597-599, 610-612. 
Notes sur Thibet avant Par Adrien Launay. 
With Illustrations. 

Cyprus. Oberhummer. 
Die Insel Cypern. Eine auf Historischer Grundlage yon Eugen 
Preisschrift. Theil. Quellenkunde und Natur- 
heschreibung. Ackerman, 1903. Size pp. xvi. and 488. 
Maps. Price 

Dutch East Indies. Weber. 
Siboga-Expeditie. Uitkomsten zoologisch, botanisch, oceanographisch 
Siboga onder commando van Luitenant uitgegeven door 
pp. (vol. i.) 142; (ii.) 32; 160 and 16; (iv.) 32; (v.) 46; 120; 52; 
(viii.) 54; (ix.) and 

are the first and second monographs the whole (sixty-five all), and give 
description the expedition and the apparatus used, the others dealing with 
zoological 

Persia. Scottish Mag. (1902): 617-626. Sykes. 
The Geography Southern Persia affecting its History. Major Moles- 
worth With Map and 

quelques semaines dans les Toundras Var Jules Kiss. 
(From Féldrajzi Kézle ményele 29 (1901): 157-168.) 

Asia. Rohrbach. 
Die Bedeutung Von Dr. Paul Rohrbach. (Ange- 
wandte Geographie. Hefte zur Verbreitung geographischer Kenntnisse 
Beziehung zum Kultur- und Wirtschaftsleben, Serie, Heft.) Halle 
Buch-handlung, 1902, Size 6}, pp. 


AFRICA. 
Abyssinia and Sudan. 
between the United Kingdom and Ethiopia, and between the United 
Kingdom, Italy, and Ethiopia, relative the Frontiers between the Soudan, 


and Eritrea. Signed Adis Ababa, May 15, 1902. 
delivered Adis Ababa, October 28, Series, No. 16, 1902.) 
Eyre Spottiswoode. Size 64, Map. Price 64d. 

See note and map the February Journal (p. 186). 


Algeria. Gsell. 
Enquéte Administrative sur les Travaux Anciens Algérie, 
publiée par les Stéphane Gsell. d’Archéologie 
Fascicule vii.) Paris: Leroux, 1902. Size 63, pp. and 
Diagrams. Price 48. 6d. 
Congo. Grenfell. 
The Upper Congo Waterway. the Rev. George Grenfell. Notes 
accompany the Author’s Map the River Congo. the 


Congo State. Bourne. 
Fox Bourne. With Prefatory Note the Right Hon. Sir Charles Dilke. 
London: King Son, 1903. Size 5}, pp. xvi. and Price 
108. 6d. net. Presented the Publisher. 


Congo State—Katanga. (1902): 589-594. 
région Katanga. With Map. 
Spanish Guinea. Madrid (1902): Escalera. 


Los territorios del Muni. Sus condiciones colonizacion. Por Manuel 
Escalera. 


| 


338 GEOGRAPHICAL LITERATURE THE MONTH. 


Nuestras colonias Guinea. técnicas, sociales politicas. Por 
Federico Montaldo. With Diagram. 


Spanish Guinea. Madrid (1902) 7-16. Sobral. 
Guinea Por Sr. Gutiérrez Sobral. 


Guinea Por Capitan Estado Mayor Don 
Emilio Borrajo 


NORTH AMERICA. 


Canada—British Columbia. Herring. 


Among the People British Columbia. Red, White, Yellow, and Brown. 
Frances Herring. London: Fisher Unwin, 1903. Size pp. xvi. and 
300. Illustrations. 6s. net. Presented the Publishers. 

Mexico. B.S.G. Estad. Rep. Mexicana (1902): 51-131. Pefiafiel. 
General Estadistica, cargo del Sr. Dr. Antonio 

Mexico—Popocatepetl. Estad. Mexicana (1902): 135-142. Ochoa. 
Descripcion cientifica del Volean por General Gaspar Sanchez 
Ochoa. 

North America—Historical. Fiske. 
New France and New Zealand. John Fiske. London: Macmillan 
1902. pp. xxv. and 378. Mups. 8s. 6d. Presented the 
Publishers. 

United States. Leverett. 
Department the Interior. Monographs the United States Geological Survey. 
Vol. xli. Glacial Formations and Drainage Features the Erie and Ohio 
Basins. Frank Leverett. Washington, 1902. Size pp. 802. Maps 
and Presented the U.S. Geological 

United States—California. Davy. 
Stock Ranges North-Western California: Notes the Grasses and Forage 
Plants and Range Conditions. Joseph Burtt Davy. (U.S. Department 
Agriculture. Bureau Plant Washington, 1902. 

United Erskine. 
Coal Industry the Consular District Chicago. Foreign Office, 

United States—Colorado. J.G. 357-370. Lee. 
Canyons Colorado. Willis Lee. With and 
Illustrations. 

United States—Iron. Erskine. 


Iron Ore Industry the United States. Foreign Office, Miscellaneous, No. 583, 


United 403-407. Jefferson. 
United States—Rhode Island. (1902): 343-352. Brown. 


Gaspee Point. Type Cuspate Foreland. Robert Brown. With Map, 
Diagram, and 
CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA. 


Argentine Republic. Démog. Argentin (1902): pp. 76. Carrasco. 
Dictionnaire argentin. Por Carrasco. 

Argentine Republic. Plaza. 
Politica Internacional Argentina. Los arreglos Argentino—Chilenos. 


GEOGRAPHICAL LITERATURE THE MONTH. 339 
Por Londres: Imp. William Clowes Hijos, 1902. Size 54, 
pp. 64. 
Written before the recent frontier award was made. 
Argentine Republic—Historical. Outes. 


Noticia (1527-1902). Buenos Aires, 1902: Size 104 6}, 
pp. Maps and Illustrations. Presented the Author. 

Bolivia. 
Anexos Memoria del Ministro Relaciones Exteriores Culto presentada 
Congreso Ordinario 1901. Paz, 1902. Size 11} 7}, pp. 300. 

reprint documents referring the foreign relations Bolivia. 


Hann. 
Zur Meteorolovie des Aquators. Nach den Beobachtungen Museum Goeldi 
Paré. Von Hann. (Aus den Sitzungsberichten der Kaiserl. Akademie der 
Wissenschaften Wien. Mathem.-naturw. Classe. Bd. Abth. Mai, 
1902.) Wien, 1902. Size 64, pp. 70. Presented the Author. 


Guiana. B.G. Hist. 253-260. Froidevaux. 
Jamaica. Oliver. 


Jamaica. Report for 1901-2. Colonial Reports—Annual. No. 375. 1902. Size 

Juan Fernandez. Rundschau (1902): 122-128. 
Juan Fernandez, die Von Andresen. With 

Leeward Islands. 
Leeward Islands. Report for 1901-1902. Colonial Reports, Annual. No. 374, 

See note Monthly Record for February (p. 189). 

Martinique. 135 (1902): 771-773. Lacroix. 
Sur actuel volean dela Montagne Martinique. Extrait d’une 
Lettre Lacroix. 

Peru. B.S.G. Lima (1902): 53-73. Hassel. 
Importancia région del proyecto ferrocarril entre Piura 
pongo Manseriche. del von Hassel. With Map. 

Venezuela—Caura River. Andre. 
The Caura. Narrative Journey the Caura River. André. 
Trinidad, 1902. Size 104 pp. 80. Map and Portfolio Plates. 
the Author. 

The journey was described the Journal for September, 1902 (p. 283). 
West Indies—Agriculture. 

Imperial Department Agriculture for the West Indies. Series, 

Each deals with special subject connected with West Indian agri- 
culture, including that the results cane cultivation the experimental stations 
and elsewhere. 

West Eruptions. Indian (1902): 271-293. 
Eruptions the West 


AUSTRALASIA AND PACIFIC ISLANDS. 

Australia. 
Australian School Series. Century Progress, 1788-1888. The Geo- 
graphical Development Australia. Ernest Favenc. Sydney and Brisbane: 
the Author. 

the history Australian exploration. 
Australia—Ethnography. Heft (1902): pp. 14. Virchow. 


ethnographische und Anthropologische Tafeln, ausgefiihrt nach 
Anweisungen und des Prof. Dr. Rudolph Virchow. 


GEOGRAPHICAL LITERATURE THE MONTH. 


Hawaii. American Sci. 431-439. Emerson. 
Some Characteristics Kau. Emerson. 
New Guinea. Globus (1902): 379-383. Foy. 


Ethnographische Bezichungen zwischen British- and Von 
Dr. Foy. With Illustrations. 

New Guinea—Dutch. Globus (1903): 11-14. Zondervan. 
Die Erweiterung Kenntnisse von Neu-Guinea. Von Henri 
Zondervan. 

der Regenmessungen und Erdbeben-Beobachtungen Deutch-Neu- 
Guinea den Jahren 1900 and 1901. 
New Zealand—Survey Report. Marchant. 


Report the Department Lands and Survey, New Zealand, for the year 1901- 
Marchant, Wellington, 1902. Pp. xxviii. and 166, Maps 


Pacific. National Mag. (1902) 333-342. McGee. 


Problems the Great Ocean World Growth. Dr. 


Pacific—Date Line. Monthly Weather Rev. (1902): 363. Page. 
The Date Line the Pacific Ocean. James Page. 
Samoa. Kramer. 


Die Samoa-Inseln. Entwurf einer Monographie mit besonderer Beriicksichtigung 
Deutsch-Samoas. Von Augustin Kramer. Herausgegeben mit 
der Kolonialabteilung des Amts. Erster Stamm- 
und Ueberlieferungen. Stuttgart: Verlagsbuch- 
handlung (E. Size 124 pp. and Illustrations. 

This volume deals almost entirely with the people Samoa. 


South Australia—Lake Eyre. Library Record Australasia 75-77. Wright. 
The Value Newspapers—Naming Lake Eyre. Hugh Wright. 


REGIONS. 
Antarctic. Wilson. 


Antarctica. Dr. Wilson. (Cheltenham Natural Science Socicty, Session 
1901-1902.) (Reprinted from the October and 

Antarctic—Botany. Wille. 


Mittheilungen iiber einige von auf 
Festlande Pflanzen. Herausgegeben Dr. Wille. (Separataftryk 
999 


Arctic. Abruzzi. 


Osservazioni Scientifiche eseguite durante Spedizione Polare Luigi 
Amedeo Savoia, Duca degli Abruzzi, 1899-1900. Milan: Ulrico Hoepli, 
Size pp. 724. Presented the Publishers. 


Arctic. G.Z. 305-322, 380-390, 570-590, 626-647. Lindeman. 
Die neueren Reisen zur Erforschung der Nordpolarregion. Von Dr. Moritz Linde- 
Also copy, presented the Author. 


Charcot. 
Une excursion Par Charcot. Illustrations. 


MATHEMATICAL GEOGRAPHY. 


Cartography—Projection. B.G. 282-284. Berthon. 


Une représentation globe terrestre sur une projection étoilée quatre branches. 
Par lieutenant Berthon. With Map. 


GEOGRAPHICAL LITERATURE THE MONTH. 


Nautical Almanac. 
Appendix Nautical Almanac, 1903. Corrections the Apparent Places 
Nautical Almanac Stars visible Greenwich, deduced from the Paris Conference 
(1896) Constants obtain Apparent Places corresponding the Struve- 
Peters Constants. [Not dated.] Size pp. 22. 


Navigation. American G.S. (1902): 295-297. Littlehales. 
The Essential Needs Modern Navigation. Littlehales. 

Sextants. Nautical Mag. 719-727. Ellenborough. 
New Method correcting Sextants when Sea. Lord 

Surveying. Rd. 135 728-730. 


Sur résolution nomographique triangle position pour une latitude donnée. 
Note Maurice d’Ocagne. 

Surveying. Berthaut. 
1831. Etude Historique par Colonel Berthaut. Velumes. 
Size pp. (vol. 1.) xvi. and 468; (vol. ii.) and Maps and 
tions. Price 30s. 

Colonel Laussedat. 


PHYSICAL AND BIOLOGICAL GEOGRAPHY. 


Sur role des tourbillons dans Note Jean Brunhes. 
Geological History. K.A.W. Amsterdam, Sec. Sci. 388-399. Dubois. 


the Supply Sodium and Chlorine the Rivers the Sea. Prof. Eug. 
Dubois. 


Noticed the Monthly Record 
Geomorphology. Rd. 135 (102): Martel. 
Sur des lapiaz leur relation les abimes souter- 


Glaciers. Hist. Descriptive (1902): 285-327. Rabot. 
chronologie des variations glaciaires. Par Ch. Rabot. 

Gravity. Rd. (1902) 956-959. Collet. 
pesanteur long paralléle moyen. Note Collet. 

Ice-action. American Sci. 399-405. Hobbs. 


Instance the Action the Ice-sheet upon Slender Projecting Rock Masses. 
The fact that the author (without discussion) 70° normal tempera- 
ture the air houses may incline some doubt the correctness his second 
that the most suitable relative humidity per cent. 


Oceanography—Currents. Monthly Weather Rev. (1902): 397-401. Page. 
Ocean Currents. James 
Phyto-Geography— Wind-effects. 


Ges. Ziirich (1901-1902): 


Die Abbildung der vorherrschenden Winde durch die Pflanzenwelt. Von Prof. Dr. 
With Maps. 


Die Aufgabe geographischer Forschung Fliissen. Von Prof. Dr. Willi Ule. 
With Diagrams. 

Terrestrial Physics. Digby. 


Natural Law Terrestrial Phenomena. Study the Causation Earthquakes, 
Voleanic Eruptions, Wind-storms, Temperature, Rainfall, with Record Evidence. 


342 GEOGRAPHICAL LITERATURE THE 


and 370. Diagrams. Presented the Author. 
Written support recent theories the moon’s preponderating influence 
meteorological and earthquake phenomena. 
Tides. (1902) 91-96. Wright 
Harmonic Tidal Constants for certain Australian and Chinese Ports. Thomas 
Wright. 


ANTHROPOGEOGRAPHY AND HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY. 


Historical—Columbus. Rosa. 
Solution tous les relatifs Christophe Colomb et, 
celui des origines des prétendus inspirateurs Découverte Nouveau 
Monde, par Gonzalez Rosa. (Mémoire extrait Compte rendu 
Congrés international des tenu Septembre 1900.) Paris: 
Leroux, 1902. Size pp. Presented the Author. 

Historical—Columbus and Toscanelli. 
The Letter and Chart Toscanelli the Route the Indies way the 
West, sent 1474 the Portuguese Fernam Martins, and later Christopher 
Columbus. Critical Study the and value these documents 
and the sources the cosmographical ideas Columbus, followed the various 
texts the letter, with translations, annotations, several facsimiles, and also 
map. Henry Vignaud. London: Sands Co., 1902. Size 5}, pp. xx. 
und Price 10s. 6d. 

The French edition was reviewed the Journal for June, 1902 (p. the 
present version several new chapters have added, and further arguments adduced. 


BIOGRAPHY. 


Bienville. B.G. Hist. Descriptive 184-186. Musset. 
J.-B. Moyne Bienville. Par Musset. 

The subject this notice was younger brother tle better-known Lemoyne 
and, like the latter, took important part the French settlement 
Louisiana. 

Carcie. Hist. Descriptive (1902): 155-158. Pawlowski. 
Garcie, dit Ferrande, son grand routier. Notice additionnelle. Par 
Pawlowski. 

Gives account the Rouen edition 1525 (cf. Journal, vol. xviii. 
Gioia. Porena. 
Prof. Filippo Porena. Flavio Gioia, inventore della Bussola (Dalla 
Nuova Antologia—1° novembre 1902.) Roma, 1902. Size 6}, pp. 

sented the Author. 

GENERAL. 

Agriculture. Plessis Grenédan. 
Geographie Agricole France Monde. Par Plessis Grenédan. 
Paris: Masson Cie., 1903. Size 5}, pp. xx. and 424. Maps and Diagrams. 
Price 

Bibliography. Cole. 
Compiling Bibliography, Practical hints with illustrative examples concerning 
the collection, and arrangement bibliographical materials. 
George Watson (ole. New York: The Library Journal, 1902. Size 7}. 
pp. 20. Presented the Author. 

Instructions Collectors. 
Handbook Instructions for Collectors, issued the British Museum (Natural 
History). London, 1902. size pp. 138. Presented the 
Trustees the British Museum. 


Irrigation. J.G. 407-419. Hollister. 


Irrigation Methods. George Hollister. With 


Year-Book. Parker. 


The Daily Mail for 1903. Third Year issue. Edited Percy 
Price Presented the 


NEW MAPS. 
REEVES, Map Curator, R.G.8. 


EUROPE. 

England and Wales. Ordnance Survey. 
SuRVEY ENGLAND AND WALES :—Revised sheets published the 
Director-General the Ordnance Survey, Southampton, from January 31, 

Hill-shaded map, printed colours, sheets: 7,8. 1s. 6d. each. 
inch 


With hills brown black 78, 80, (81 and 82), 118, 155, 136 (engraved). 
each. 


Maps 

25-inch—County Maps 
10; 10, 11, 12, 18, 14, 15, 16; 10, 14; 2,3; 
12; LX. (2, and 7), 12; XI. 14; XVII. 10; 
7,8; XXVI.5; 13, 16; 4,7; XXXIV.5; XXXVI. 
11; 2,10; 12; LXXIV. Leicestershire, LV. 12; 
15, 16; XXXVII. 10, 12, 13, 14; 12, 14, 15, 16; 
11, 12, 14,15; XLIV. 1,3; XLV. XLVIII. 12, 14; XLIX. 
Radnorshire, 15; 12, 14; Shropshire, XLVII. 12, 
15, 16; 12; LIV. 12, 15, 16; LY. 18, 15; 11; 
XC. 10; XCIV. Staffordshire, XXXV. 15, 16; XLIX.1, 13; 
11; LXX. 11. Worcestershire and Do. (Det. and 7), LIV. 
14; LXII.7,8; LXIV.4. Yorkshire, XXIV. 7,11; 16; 
CCXC.1; CCXCV.12. 3s. each. 
Stanford, London Agent.) 


England and Wales. 


Reduced Ordnance Survey England and Wales. Scale 126,720 stat. 
miles inch. \berystwyth; 21, Pembroke; 22, Carmarthen. 
Edinburgh: John Bartholomew Co. 2s. the 
Publishers. 

With the publication three sheets, half- 
inch mile reduced Ordnance Survey Maps England and Wales complete. 
The maps have already obtained well-deserved popularity, and their merits are fully 
appreciated tourists and cyclists, the manner which the relief shown 
contours and tinting rendering them specially useful the latter, who can see 
glance the character the country his road pass over. The sheets are now 
brought together, and will constitute the principal part the new Survey Atlas 
England and Wales about issued Messrs. Bartholomew, and which was 
specially noticed the number the Geographical Journal. 


English History. Reich. 
New Atlas English History. Dr. Emil Reich. London: 

This atlas noticed 314. 


( 343 ) 
| 


NEW MAPS. 


Europe. 


Reger. 
Regenkarte von Europa. 


Nach neueren zusammenge- 
stelt von Joseph Reger. 12,000,000 189-4 stat. miles inch. 
Petermanns Geographische Mitteilungen, 1903. Gotha: Justus 
Perthes. Presented the Publisher. 


the letterpress accompanying this map the author account its compila- 
tion, and mentions the authorities upon which based. For many countries the data 
very scanty, but others reliable the rainfall have been 
made during recent years, and much valuable information accumulated, the results 
which been published either the respective governments, societies, 
which appeared 1900. The map was compiled tue instigation Prof. 
Dr. Erk, the University Munich. 

Germany. 


Hellmann. 
Regenkarte der Province Westfalen sowie Waldeck, Lippe- 


Detmold und dem Kreis Rinteln. Mit erlauterndem Text and Tabellen. 
amtlichen Auftrage bearbeitet von Prof. Hellmann. Scale 1,000,000 
miles Berlin: Dietrich Reimer (Ernst Vohsen), 1903. 

This little rainfall map one series different parts the German Empire 
which now course preparation the author. With the above seven are now 
published, and others are fullow shortly. map shows the mean annual rainfall 
seven different tints blue, ranging from 500 millimetres over 1200 millimetres, 
and twenty-nine pages tabular matter and text, giving very com- 
plete particulars concerning the rainfall different stations intervals time, 
the monthly means, the change rainfall year year, similar subjects. 


ASIA. 
Asia Minor. Diest. 


Karte des nordwestlichen Nach eigenen 
Material auf Heinrich Kiepert’s neu bearbeitet von 
Berlin: Alfred Schall, 

Upon the late Dr. Kiepert’s well-known map Western Asia Minor basis, 
Major Diest has shown the results his own surveys, combined with recent 
information. The present sheet includes the Dardanelles, the Sea Marmora, Con- 
stantinople, the Bosporus, and the country thesouth. contains the title, index, 
plan, and list abbreviations and symbols employed, well important notes 
the nomenclature. The map will consist altogether four sheets. ‘The relief the 
shown hill-shading—in places somewhat too light effective—and 
the principal valleys and plains are tinted green. water shown blue. 


Asiatic Russia. Imperial Topographical Institute, St. Petersburg. 
sheets. [In Russian St. Petersburg: Imperial Topographical In- 
stitute, Revised and corrected November, Presented Colonel 

The present edition this map dated 1894, but note manuscript appears 
the title-sheet, stating that has been corrected last November. Although this 
may true regards certain districts, evident that the map requires further 
revision. ‘lhe new survey the Yenesei has not beep taken advantage of, and there 
are other matters that need However, comparison with the first edition, 


which appeared 1884, shows that great correction has taken place since 
that date. 


AFRICA. 

Africa. Division, War Office. 
Africa. Scale 250,000 stat. miles Sheets: (Provisional) 
45-H, Talgwarab; (Provisional) 45-L, Adarama; (Provisional) 46-A, Suakin 
(Provisional) 46-E, 46-F, Tokar; (Provisional) 55-B, Khar- 

toum. Intelligence Division, War Office; Stanford, 1902. Price 1s. 6d. 


sheet. Presented the Director-General Mobilization and Military In- 
telligence. 


sheets include the district Berber and Suakin, and the neighbour- 
hood Khartum. They form part the important large map Africa now being 


NEW MAPS. 345 


prepared the Intelligence Division the War Office. Much fresh information 
given from the surveys various officers and others serving the Sudan, and 
upon each sheet there appears note stating the sources from which this has been 
derived. 


Nigeria. Woodroffe. 
Map Southern Nigeria (Provisional). Compiled under the direction Captain 
London: Edward Stanford, 1902. Price 1s. 

The principal geographical results the recent Aro expedition are shown upon 
this map, well other up-to-date information obtained from various sources, but 
many the sites villages, rivers, and native paths can only considered 
approximate, owing the fact they have been laid down hurried journeys 
through very country. The printed blue and black, and extends 
from Lagos the west the river Kamerun the east, from the sea lat. 
stated provisional issue only, and doubtless another and more 
complete edition will published when fresh information available. 


South Africa. 


‘The Railway Map South Africa. stat. miles inch. 
Supplement South Africa, December 1902. London: South Africa, 

Shows railways open, under construction, and proposed between Cape Colony and 
the south the Tanganyika. There also table giving the distance miles 
between the stations the different lines, and the the stations feet 
above sea-level. Plans nine the principal ports are added insets, well 
general outline map Africa illustrating the Cape Cairo route and the Natal 
railways. 


Togo. Sprigade. 
Karte von Togo. Scale 200,000 stat. miles toan inch. Konstruiert und 
gezeichnet unter Leitung von Paul Sprigade. und mit Unterstut- 
der des Amts, herausgegeben durch die 
Verlagshandlung. Sheet: Lome. Berlin: Dietrich Reimer (Ernst Vohsen), 
1903. Price 1.80m. each 

This the first sheet large map Togoland, now course publication. 
carefully compiled from the route surveys various explorers, which are indicated 
with the travellers’ names and the dates their journeys. well drawn, clearly 
printed, and gives amount detail, although many districts are still 
but imperfectly known. 


West Africa. Mager. 
Atlas d’Afrique Occidentale. Par Henri Mager. Paris: Ernest Flammarion. 
Price \fr. 

cheap popular little atlas French West Africa, consisting two sheets 
maps from the Nouvel Atlas Colonial, with descriptive letterpress, which 
additions have been made. There also small general map North-West Africa. 


AMERICA, 

Argentine and Chile. Steffen. 
Grenze zwischen Argentinien und Chile nach dem Shicdsspruch 1902. 
Von Dr. Steffen. 2,500,000 39°45 stat. miles inch. 
manns Mitteilungen, Jahr. 1903, Tafel Gotha: Justus Perthes. 
Presented the Publisher. 


Canada. Surveyor-General’s Office, Ottawa. 
Sectional Map Scale 190,080 stat. miles inch. 
(35), West Second Meridian. Revised September 30, 
Willowbunch Sheet (41), West Second Meridian. Revised September 20, 
1902. Surveyor-General’s Office, Ottawa, 1902. the Surveyor-General 
Canada, 

The Willowbunch sheet the area approximately between 40° and 
49° 42’ lat. and between 104° and 106° long., and the Qu’Appelle sheet that 
between 50° and 51° lat. and between 102° and long. The sheets 


346 NEW MAPS. 


show townships, trails, post-offices, and railways, addition indication the 
topographical features. 


Lidstone. 


Map part the Republic Colombia. William Lidstone, Scale 
Price 15s. 

The title this map decidedly vague and indefinite, but the part” the 
Republic Colombia refers shown the map, includes the departments 
Bolivar, Magdelena, Santander, Antioquia, Tolima, the part Boyaca and 
and the eastern half Cauca. map thus represents all the 
central and most important region Colombia, including the capital and the courses 
the rivers Magdelena and Cauca. The geographical features this country are 
still very known, and, with the exception the route-surveys mining 
engineers and few others, little additional information obtained that not 
given Codazzi’s large atlas which was published over sixty years ago. Any addition 
our knowledge therefore specially Mr. Lidstone, the author this map, 
the pursuit his profession civil engineer, has travelled extensively the 
country, and from his route-surveys, combined with information, this map has been 
districts, however, the map not nearly complete might haw- 
been the surveys others had been properly utilized. inetance this 
found the northern part, where Mr. Simons has worked for years, but the 
results whose surveys seem have been almost entirely ignored. Had the infor- 
mation contained his maps the departments Bolivar and Magdelena and the 
river been made use of, Mr. Lidstone could have rendered his map far more com- 
plete. map printed colours, and shows railways existing and course 
construction. 


United States. Rand, McNally Co. 
Indexed County and Township Pocket Maps. Mississippi. Scale 823,680 
inch. Montana. Scale 1,900,800 stat. miles Chicago and 
New York: Rand, Co., 1903. Price $0.25 Presented the 
Publishers. 

These are new editions. 


GENERAL. 

Martin. 
Wall illustrations for anthropological, ethnographical, and geographical instruc- 
tion. Dr. Rud. Martin. Zurich: Art. Institut Orell 
the Publishers. 

There can doubt that really carefully prepared wall illustrations 
the leading types the human race would prove valuable for educational purposes. 
and such the intention the author the above, Dr. Martin, Zurich 
University, produce. illustration half-length photochrome picture. 
larger than life size, taken from original photographs the author, well-known 
scientists and travellers, who have undertaken assist the matter; and from 
and other reliable material, Mr. Steiner has, under Dr. Martin’s direction, 
painted the originals from which the diagrams have been copied. specimens 
already received are the Great Russian, Veddah, and are 
two editions the small one, consisting eight pictures, containing types 
the Veddah, Javanese, Australian, Masai, Dakota, Eskimo, and Great 
Russian, for which the subscription price 8s.; and larger one consisting 
twenty-four pictures, illustrating the following types addition those already 
mentioned: Egyptian, Senoi, Semang Chinese, Bushman, Tamil, Carib. 
Polynesian, Karen, Batta, Dahomey, Micronesian, Kirghiz, Solomon islander, 
and Fuegian. For this latter series the subscription price will The diagrams 
are issued portfolios, and accompanied explanatory letterpress. 

Roman Grundy. 
Murray’s Handy Classical Maps. The Empire. Edited Grundy, 


Brasenose College,Oxford. Londen: John Murray. 
the Publisher. 


314. 


Admiralty Charts. 


NEW MAPS. 


CHARTS. 


Charts and Plans published the Hydrographic Department, Admiralty, during 
November and December, 1902. Presented the Hydrographic Department, 


No. Inches. 


England, south coast:—Portsmouth harbour, mooring ground, 
southern sheet. 2s. 6d. 

England, south coast :—Poole harbour. 6d. 

1607 England Thames entrance, North Foreland tothe Nore. 3s. 

3278 Channel islands, Jersey :—St. Helier harbour. tid. 

5|Germany, light-vessel Brunsbiittelkoog 
(Plans :—Cuxhaven road, Kaiser canal entrance, 

Germany, Elbe river:—Brunsbiittelkoog Hamburg. Plans: 

Hamburg and Altona 6d. 

Newfoundland :—Northern arms Canada bay. 6d. 

Newfoundland: Little river. 

Newfoundland :—Bay Islands, outer part. 

West Indies, Pucrto Rico, east coast t:—Ensenada Honda and 

Puerca 
island. 2s. 6d. 

602 Columbia :—Roche harbour and approaches. 6d. 

0°63 North America, west coast. Alaska (Bering) bay. 1s. 6d. 


2361 


3303 m 
288 m 
3308 m 
3310 
3298 


3312 0°96 Eastern Archipelago :—Madura island, south coast road. 
6d. 

var. Eastern Archipelago:—Anchorages the north coast Java. 


6d. 
San Fernando harbour, Port Santo td. 


28m England, south coast. Plan harbour. 
320 North American Lake Superior. Plans :—Michi- 


picoten harbour, Gargantua harbour. 
(J. Potter, Agent.) 


Charts Cancelled. 


No. Cancelled 


Port Berenice. Plan plan. 

2454 PortSan Fernando. plan. 

this chart. San Fernando harbour—on 


Charts that have received Important Corrections. 


No, 28, England, south coast river. 34, England, south coast :—The 
Scilly isles. 2390, Scotland, west and west lochs Roag. 2311, 
Norway, sheet ix.:—Fleina Vestfiord and the Lofoten islands. 2302, Gulf 
Bothnia, sheet point round the head the gulf 2647, 
west Sables Bourgneuf. 853, United States, 
east coast:—St. Andrew sound St. John river. 130, Leeward 
Anguilla Puerto Rico with approaches Virgin islands. 1799, 
America, east coast:—Boca del Drago. Boca del South America, 
east coast:—Union bay Rio Negro. 1544, Central road. 
2087, Africa, south coast :—Bashee river Umtavuna river. Africa, south 
coast river Tugela river. 2089, Africa, east coast river 


Hydrographic Department, Admiralty. 


: 
5 


348 NEW MAPS. 


Delagoa bay. Africa, coast:—Delagoa bay river Zambezi. 
Africa, east coast :—Bazaruto bav. 1810, Africa, east coast:—River Zambezi 
Mozambique harbour. 1809, Africa, east harbour Ras 
Pekawi. 658, Africa, east Pekawi Cape Delgado. 1808, Africa. 
east coast, sheet Delgado Kilwa. 690, Africa, east coast 
Delgado Mikindani bay. 652, Africa, cast coast:—Kilwa point Zanzibar 
1032, Africa, east coast:—Channels between Ras Tikwiri and 
island. Africa, east Malindi. 640a, Africa, east 
coast :—-Pangani Ras sheets. 1390, Africa, east 
point Pangani. 848, Africa, east Juba. Mada- 
gascar:—Cape Andrew Bevato island. Indian ocean islands 
Comoro islands. 40, India, west coast:—Karachi harbour. 934, Eastern Archi- 
pelago :—Surabaya, Bali and Sapudi straits, 3019, Saki 
Kagara Sima, with the channels Imari. 651, Japan 

(J. Potter, Agent.) 


North Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea. Meteorological Office, London. 
Pilot Chart the North Atlantic and Mediterranean for February, 1903. London: 
Meteorological Office. Price 6d. Presented the Meteorological London. 


United States Chart. United States Hydrographic Office. 
Pilot Chart the North Atlantic Ocean for Jannary, and the North Pacifie 
Ocean for 1903. U.S. Hydrographic Office, Washington, 
sented the U.S. Office. 


Central Africa. Beringer. 


Twenty Photographs Central Africa, Otto Beringer, Esq. Presented 
Otto Beringer, Esq. 

The surveying expedition connection with the Trans-Continental Telegraph line, 
during which these were taken, was described the number the 
Geographical Journal for last. The photographs are small, some being taken 
with binocular camera. 

(1) Camp off road, Tanganyika plateau; (2) High grass, Tanganyika plateau; (3) 
Fife, Tanganyika plateau; (4) View the African Trans-Continental Telegraph 
Company’s telegraph line; (5) Abercorn, main road passing Lake (6) Survey- 
ing the shores Lake Chiuta, Abercorn; (7) Awemba; (8) Section 
under which Dr. Livingstone’s heart was buried (9) Folding boat small Chiuta 
lake, Abercorn; (10) Atonga; (11) Adventure, Lake Nyasa; (12) Usysia; 
(13) Domica bay; (14 and 15) North Usysia; (16-18) Ficus, near (19) 
Camp shore between bay and Karonga; (20) Looking south between Usysia 
and Deep bay. 


Yunnan. Watts-Jones. 
Twelve Photographs Yunnan, taken Captain Watts-Jones, 
sented Mrs. Watts-Jones. 

These photographs were taken the late Captain Watts-Jones during his ex- 
plorations Yunnan 1900. Although small size, they are remarkably clear. 

(1) Ferry the Mekong river; (2) side lagoon, Tali-fu lake; (3) Yangtse 
river Shih-Ku; (4) First stage Bhamo-Tali-fu road; (5) Marble temple near 
Tali-fu; (6) Chain suspension bridge over the Shweli river; (7) Waterfall where 
river leaves Momein plain; (8) Canal north Tali-fu; (9) Remains ancient lake- 
bed plain, Nan-tien valley; (10) Rice terraces, Shunning-fu valley; (11) Chinese 
Shan village Taeping (12) Nan Ting valley. 


N.B.—It would greatly add the value the collection Photo- 
graphs which has been established the Map all the Fellows 
the Society who have taken photographs during their travels, would 
forward copies them the Map Curator, whom they will 
acknowledged. Should the donor have purchased the photographs, 


will useful for reference the name the photographer and his 
address are given. 


Published by the Royal Geograplura 


THE GEOGRAPHICAL JOURNAL 


Sketch map showing 


SVEN ROUTES 


CENTRAL ASIA 


Scale Miles. 


0 50 100 200 300 


MAPS ILLUSTRATE THE PAPER 


Scale 


TEMPEST ANDERSON. 


THE GEOGRAPHICAL JOURNAL 


EST INDIES. 
part the 


Seale Miles. 


L 2 3 + 


Précheur 


Pierre Road 


Fond 
Fond.Laillet 


1:150,000 


WEST 


North part the 
ISLAND MARTINIQUE 


Scale Miles. 
miles 


Railways Principal Roads 
Heights feet. 


= 


Under 100 Fath™ 


1000_ 


90° 


yal 


the 


Rabaka Dry 


WEST INDIES 


S 
eating, 


VADORS 


2000. 


00 ,,